POULTRY AND GAME.

POULTRY includes all domestic birds suitable for food except pigeon and squab. Examples: chicken, fowl, turkey, duck, goose, etc. Game includes such birds and
animals suitable for food as are pursued and taken in field and forest. Examples: quail, partridge, wild duck, plover, deer, etc. 1
The flesh of chicken, fowl, and turkey has much shorter fibre than that of ruminating animals, and is not intermingled with fat,—the fat always being found in layers directly under the skin, and surrounding the intestines. Chicken, fowl, and turkey are nutritious, and chicken is specially easy of digestion. The white meat found on breast and wing is more readily digested than the dark meat. The legs, on account of constant motion, are of a coarser fibre and darker color. 2
Since incubators have been so much used for hatching chickens, small birds suitable for broiling may be always found in market. Chickens which appear in market during January weighing about one and one-half pounds are called spring chickens. 3
Fowl is found in market throughout the year, but is at its best from March until June. 4
Philadelphia, until recently, furnished our market with Philadelphia chickens and capons, but now Massachusetts furnishes equally good ones, which are found in market from December to June. They are very large, plump, and superior eating. At an early age they are deprived of the organs of reproduction, penned, and specially fatted for killing. They are recognized by the presence of head, tail, and wing feathers. 5
Turkeys are found in market throughout the year, but are best during the winter months. Tame ducks and geese are very indigestible on account of the large quantity of fat they contain. Goose meat is thoroughly infiltrated with fat, containing sometimes forty to forty-five per cent. Pigeons, being old birds, need long, slow cooking to make them tender. Squabs (young pigeons) make a delicious tidbit for the convalescent, and are often the first meat allowed a patient by the physician. 6
The flesh of game, with the exception of wild duck and wild geese, is tender, contains less fat than poultry, is of fine though strong flavor, and easy of digestion. Game meat is usually of dark color, partridge and quail being exceptions, and is usually cooked rare. Venison, the flesh of deer, is short-fibred, dark-colored, highly savored, tender, and easy of digestion; being highly savored, it often disagrees with those of weak digestion. 7
Geese are in market throughout the year, Massachusetts and Rhode Island furnishing specially good ones. A goose twelve weeks old is known as a green goose. They may be found in market from May to September. Young geese which appear in market September first and continue through December are called goslings. They have been hatched during May and June, and then fatted for market. 8
Young ducks, found in market about March first, are called ducklings. Canvasback Ducks have gained a fine reputation throughout the country, and are found in market from the last of November until March. Redhead Ducks are in season two weeks earlier, and are about as good eating as Canvasback Ducks, and much less in price. The distinctive flavor of both is due to the wild celery on which they feed. Many other kinds of ducks are found in market during the fall and winter. Examples: Widgeon, Mallard, Lake Erie Teal, Black Ducks, and Butterballs. 9
Fresh quail are in market from October fifteenth to January first, the law forbidding their being killed at any other time in the year. The same is true of partridge, but both are frozen and kept in cold storage several months. California sends frozen quail in large numbers to Eastern markets. Grouse (prairie chicken) are always obtainable,—fresh ones in the fall; later, those kept in cold storage. Plover may be bought from April until December. 10
To Select Poultry and Game. A chicken is known by soft feet, smooth skin, and soft cartilage at end of breastbone. An abundance of pinfeathers always indicates a young bird, while the presence of long hairs denotes age. In a fowl
the feet have become hard and dry with coarse scales, and cartilage at end of breastbone has ossified. Cock turkeys are usually better eating than hen turkeys, unless hen turkey is young, small, and plump. A good turkey should be plump, have smooth dark legs, and cartilage at end of breastbone soft and pliable. Good geese abound in pinfeathers. Small birds should be plump, have soft feet and pliable bills. 11
To Dress and Clean Poultry. Remove hairs and down by holding the bird over a flame (from gas, alcohol, or burning paper) and constantly changing position until all parts of surface have been exposed to flame; this is known as singeing. Cut off the head and draw out pinfeathers, using a small pointed knife. Cut through the skin around the leg one and one-half inches below the leg joint, care being taken not to cut tendons; place leg at this cut over edge of board, press downward to snap the bone, then take foot in right hand, holding bird firmly in left hand, and pull off foot, and with it the tendons. In old birds the tendons must be drawn separately, which is best accomplished by using a steel skewer. Make an incision through skin below breastbone, just large enough to admit the hand. With the hand remove entrails, gizzard, heart, and liver; the last three named constitute what is known as giblets. The gall bladder, lying on the under surface of the right lobe of the liver, is removed with liver, and great care must be taken that it is not broken, as a small quantity of the bile which it contains would impart a bitter flavor to the parts with which it came in contact. Enclosed by the ribs, on either side of backbone, may be found the lungs, of spongy consistency and red color. Care must be taken that every part of them is removed. Kidneys, lying in the hollow near end of backbone, must also be removed. By introducing first two fingers under skin close to neck, the windpipe may be easily found and withdrawn; also the crop, which will he found adhering to skin close to breast. Draw down neck skin, and cut off neck close to body, leaving skin long enough to fasten under the back. Remove oil bag, and wash bird by allowing cold water to run through it, not allowing bird to soak in cold water. Wipe inside and outside, looking carefully to see that everything has been withdrawn. If there is disagreeable odor, suggesting that fowl may have been kept too long, clean at once, wash inside and out with soda water, and sprinkle inside with charcoal and place some under wings. 12
Poultry dressed at market seldom have tendons removed unless so ordered. It is always desirable to have them withdrawn, as they become hard and bony during cooking. It is the practice of market-men to cut a gash through the skin, to easier reach crop and windpipe. This gash must be sewed before stuffing, and causes the bird to look less attractive when cooked. 13
To Cut up a Fowl. Singe, draw out pinfeathers, cut off head, remove tendons and oil bag. Cut through skin between leg and body close to body, bend back leg (thus breaking ligaments), cut through flesh, and separate at joint. Separate the upper part of leg, second joint, from lower part of leg, drumstick, as leg is separated from body. Remove wing by cutting through skin and flesh around upper wing joint which lies next to body, then disjoint from body. Cut off tip of wing and separate wing at middle joint. Remove leg and wing from other side. Separate breast from back by cutting through skin, beginning two inches below breastbone and passing knife between terminus of small ribs on either side and extending cut to collar-bone. Before removing entrails, gizzard, heart, liver, lungs, kidneys, crop, and windpipe, observe their position, that the anatomy of the bird may be understood. The back is sometimes divided by cutting through the middle crosswise. The wishbone, with adjoining meat, is frequently removed, and the breast meat may be separated in two parts by cutting through flesh close to breastbone with cleaver. Wipe pieces, excepting back, with cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water. Back piece needs thorough washing. 14
To Clean Giblets. Remove thin membrane, arteries, veins, and clotted blood around heart. Separate gall bladder from liver, cutting off any of liver that
may have a greenish tinge. Cut fat and membranes from gizzard. Make a gash through thickest part of gizzard, and cut as far as inner lining, being careful not to pierce it. Remove the inner sack and discard. Wash giblets and cook until tender, with neck and tips of wings, putting them in cold water and heating water quickly that some of the flavor may be drawn out into stock, which is to be used for making gravy. 15
To Stuff Poultry. Put stuffing by spoonfuls in neck end, using enough to sufficiently fill the skin, that bird may look plump when served. Where cracker stuffing is used, allowance must be made for the swelling of crackers, otherwise skin may burst during cooking. Put remaining stuffing in body; if the body is full, sew skin; if not full, bring skin together with a skewer. 16
To Truss Fowl. Draw thighs close to body and hold by inserting a steel skewer under middle joint running it through body, coming out under middle joint on other side. Cut piece three-fourths inch wide from neck skin, and with it fasten legs together at ends; or cross drumsticks, tie securely with a long string, and fasten to tail. Place wings close to body and hold them by inserting a second skewer through wing, body, and wing on opposite side. Draw neck skin under back and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Turn bird on its breast. Cross string attached to tail piece and draw it around each end of lower skewer; again cross string and draw around each end of upper skewer; fasten string in a knot and cut off ends. In birds that are not stuffed legs are often passed through incisions cut in body under bones near tail. 17
To Dress Birds for Broiling. Singe, wipe, and with a sharp-pointed knife, beginning at back of neck, make a cut through backbone the entire length of bird. Lay open the bird and remove contents from inside. Cut out rib bones on either side of backbone, remove from breastbone, then cut through tendons at joints. 18
To Fillet a Chicken. Remove skin from breast, and with a small sharp knife begin at end of collar-bone and cut through flesh, following close to wish and breast bones the entire length of meat. Raise flesh with fingers, and with knife free the piece of meat from bones which lie under it. Cut meat away from wing joint; this solid piece of breast is meat known as a fillet. This meat is easily separated in two parts. The upper, larger part is called the large fillet; the lower part the mignon fillet. The tough skin on the outside of large fillet should be removed, also the sinew from mignon fillet. To remove tough skin, place large fillet on a board, upper side down, make an incision through flesh at top of fillet, and cut entire length of fillet, holding knife as close to skin as possible. Trim edges, that fillet may look shapely. 19
Broiled Chicken
Dress for broiling, following directions on page 244. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place in a well-greased broiler. Broil twenty minutes over a clear fire, watching carefully and turning broiler so that àll parts may be equally browned. The flesh side must be exposed to the fire the greater part of time, as the skin side will brown quickly. Remove to a hot platter, spread with soft butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Chickens are so apt to burn while broiling that many prefer to partially cook in oven. Place chicken in dripping-pan, skin side down, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and bake fifteen minutes in hot oven; then broil to finish cooking. Guinea chickens are becoming popular cooked in this way.
20
Boiled Fowl
Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl, tie in cheese-cloth, place on trivet in a kettle, half surround with boiling water, cover, and cook slowly until tender, turning occasionally. Add salt the last hour of cooking. Serve with Egg, Oyster, or Celery Sauce. It is not desirable to stuff a boiled fowl.
21
Boiled Capon with Cauliflower Sauce
Prepare and cook a capon same as Boiled Fowl, and serve surrounded with Cauliflower Sauce and garnished with parsley.
22
Chicken à la Providence
Prepare and boil a chicken, following recipe for Boiled Fowl. The liquor should be reduced to two cups, and used for making sauce, with two tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together. Add to sauce one-half cup each of cooked carrot (cut in fancy shapes) and green peas, one teaspoon lemon juice, yolks two eggs, salt and pepper. Place chicken on hot platter, surround with sauce, and sprinkle chicken and sauce with one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
23
Stewed Chicken with Onions
Dress, clean, and cut in pieces for serving, two chickens. Cook in a small quantity of water with eighteen tiny young onions. Remove chicken to serving-dish as soon as tender, and when onions are soft drain from stock and reduce stock to one and one-half cups. Make sauce of three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons flour, stock, and one-half cup heavy cream; then add yolks three eggs, salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste. Pour sauce over chicken and onions.
24
Chicken à la Stanley
Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one large onion thinly sliced, and two broilers cut in pieces for serving; cover, and cook slowly ten minutes; then add one cup Chicken Stock, and cook until meat is tender. Remove chickens, rub stock and onions through a sieve, and add one and one-half tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together. Add cream to make sauce of the right consistency. Season with salt and pepper. Arrange chicken on serving dish, pour around sauce, and garnish dish with bananas cut in diagonal slices dipped in flour and sautéd in butter.
25
Chili Con Carni
Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens. Season with salt and pepper, and sauté in butter. Remove seeds and veins from eight red peppers, cover with boiling water, and cook until soft; mash, and rub through a sieve. Add one teaspoon salt, one onion finely chopped, two cloves of garlic finely chopped, the chicken, and boiling water to cover. Cook until chicken is tender. Remove to serving dish, and thicken sauce with three tablespoons each butter and flour cooked together; there should be one and one-half cups sauce. Canned pimentoes may be used in place of red peppers.
26
Roast Chicken
Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a chicken. Place on its back on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast and legs with three tablespoons butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed with two tablespoons flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour is well browned, reduce the heat, then baste. Continue basting every ten minutes until chicken is cooked. For basting, use one-fourth cup butter, melted in two-thirds cup boiling water, and after this is gone, use fat in pan, and when necessary to prevent flour burning, add one cup boiling water. During cooking,
turn chicken frequently, that it may brown evenly. If a thick crust is desired, dredge bird with flour two or three times during cooking. If a glazed surface is preferred, spread bird with butter, omitting flour, and do not dredge during baking. When breast meat is tender, bird is sufficiently cooked. A four-pound chicken requires about one and one-half hours.
27
Stuffing I
1 cup cracker crumbs 1/3 cup boiling water
1/3 cup butter Salt and Pepper
Powdered sage, summer savory, or marjoram
Melt butter in water, and pour over crackers, to which seasonings have been added.
28
Stuffing II
1 cup cracker crumbs Salt
1/4 cup melted butter Pepper
Sage of Poultry Seasoning 1 cup scalded milk
Make same as Stuffing I.
29
Gravy
Pour off liquid in pan in which chicken has been roasted. From liquid skim off four tablespoons fat; return fat to pan, and brown with four tablespoons flour; add two cups stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked. Cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper, then strain. The remaining fat may be used, in place of butter, for frying potatoes, or for basting when roasting another chicken.
30
For Giblet Gravy, add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and gizzard) finely chopped. 31
Braised Chicken
Dress, clean, and truss a four-pound fowl. Try out two slices fat salt pork cut one-fourth inch thick; remove scraps, and add to fat five slices carrot cut in small cubes, one-half sliced onion, two sprigs thyme, one sprig parsley, and one bay leaf, then cook ten minutes; add two tablespoons butter, and fry fowl, turning often until surface is well browned. Place on trivet in a deep pan, pour over fat, and add two cups boiling water or Chicken Stock. Cover, and bake in slow oven until tender, basting often, and adding more water if needed. Serve with a sauce made from stock in pan, first straining and removing the fat.
32
Chicken Fricassee
Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding salt to water when chicken is about half done. Remove from water, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter or pork fat. Arrange chicken on pieces of dry toast placed on a hot platter, having wings and sécond joints opposite each other, breast in centre of platter, and drumsticks crossed just below second joints. Pour around White or Brown Sauce. Reduce stock to two cups, strain, and remove the fat. Melt three tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups stock. Just before serving, add one-half cup cream, and salt and pepper to taste; or make a sauce by browning butter and flour and adding two cups stock, then seasoning with salt and pepper.
33
Fowls, which are always made tender by long cooking, are frequently utilized in this way. If chickens are employed, they are sautéd without previous boiling, and allowed to simmer fifteen to twenty minutes in the sauce. 34
Fried Chicken
Fried chicken is prepared and cooked same as Chicken Fricassee, with Brown Sauce, chicken always being used, never fowl.
35
Fried Chicken (Southern Style)
Clean, singe, and cut in pieces for serving, two young chickens. Plunge in cold water, drain but do not wipe. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and coat thickly with flour, having as much flour adhere to chicken as possible. Try out one pound fat salt pork cut in pieces, and cook chicken slowly in fat until tender and well browned. Serve with White Sauce made of half milk and half cream.
36
Maryland Chicken
Dress, clean, and cut up two young chickens. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and soft crumbs, place in a well-greased dripping-pan, and bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting after first five minutes of cooking with one-third cup melted butter. Arrange on platter and pour over two cups Cream Sauce.
37
Blanketed Chicken
Split and clean two broilers. Place in dripping-pan and sprinkle with salt, pepper, two tablespoons green pepper finely chopped, and one tablespoon chives finely cut. Cover with strips of bacon thinly cut, and bake in a hot oven until chicken is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour around the following sauce:
38
To three tablespoons fat, taken from dripping-pan, add four tablespoons flour and one and one-half cups thin cream, or half chicken stock and half cream may be used. Season with salt and pepper. 39
Chicken à la Merango
Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in salt pork fat. Put in a stewpan, cover with sauce, and cook slowly until chicken is tender. Add one-half can mushrooms cut in quarters, and cook five minutes. Arrange chicken on serving dish and pour around sauce; garnish with parsley.
40
Sauce
1/4 cup butter 2 cups boiling water
1 tablespoon finely chopped onion 1/2 cup stewed and strained tomato
1 slice carrot, cut in cubes 1 teaspoon salt
1 slice turnip, cut in cubes 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup flour Few grains cayenne
Cook butter five minutes with vegetables. Add flour, with salt, pepper, and cayenne, and cook until flour is well browned. Add gradually water and tomato; cook five minutes, then strain.
41
Baked Chicken
Dress, clean, and cut up two chickens. Place in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with one-fourth cup butter. Bake thirty minutes in a hot oven, basting every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one-fourth cup boiling water. Serve with gravy made by using fat in pan, one-fourth cup flour, one cup each Chicken Stock and cream, salt and pepper.
42
Planked Chicken
1/4 cup butter 1 teaspoon finely chopped onion
Red pepper 1/4 tablespoon each, finely chopped
Green pepper ½ clove garlic, finely chopped
Parsley
Duchess potatoes 1 teaspoon lemon juice
8 mushroom caps
Cream the butter, add pepper, parsley, onion, garlic, and lemon juice. Split a young chicken as for broiling, place in dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dot over with butter, and bake in a hot oven until nearly cooked. Butter plank, arrange a border of Duchess Potatoes close to edge of plank, and remove chicken to plank. Clean, peel, and sauté mushroom caps, place on chicken, spread over prepared butter, and put in a very hot oven to brown potatoes and finish cooking chicken. Serve on the plank.
43
Chicken Gumbo
Dress, clean, and cut up a chicken. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat. Fry one-half finely chopped onion in fat remaining in frying-pan. Add four cups sliced okra, sprig of parsley, and one-fourth red pepper finely chopped, and cook slowly fifteen minutes. Add to chicken, with one and one-half cups tomato, three cups boiling water, and one and one-half teaspoons salt. Cook slowly until chicken is tender, then add one cup boiled rice.
44
Chicken Stew
Dress, clean, and cut up a fowl. Put in a stewpan, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender, adding one-half tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper when fowl is about half cooked. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Serve with Dumplings. If desired richer, butter may be added.
45
Chicken Pie
Dress, clean, and cut up two fowls or chickens. Put in a stewpan with one-half onion, sprig of parsley, and bit of bay leaf; cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until tender. When chicken is half cooked, add one-half tablespoon salt and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Remove chicken, strain stock, skim off fat, and then cook until reduced to four cups. Thicken stock with one-third cup flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Place a small cup in centre of baking-dish, arrange around it pieces of chicken, removing some of the larger bones; pour over gravy, and cool. Cover with pie-crust in which several incisions have been made that there may be an outlet for escape of steam and gases. Wet edge of crust and put around a rim, having rim come close to edge. Bake in a moderate oven until crust is well risen and browned. Roll remnants of pastry and cut in diamond-shaped pieces, bake, and serve with pie when reheated. If puff paste is used, it is best to bake top separately.
46
Chicken Curry
3 lb. chicken 1 tablespoon curry powder
1/3 cup butter 2 teaspoons salt
2 onions 1 teaspoon vinegar
Clean, dress, and cut chicken in pieces for serving. Put butter in a hot frying-pan, add chicken, and cook ten minutes; then add liver and gizzard and cook ten minutes longer. Cut onions in thin slices, and add to chicken with curry powder and salt. Add enough boiling water to cover, and simmer until chicken is tender. Remove chicken; strain, and thicken liquor with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Pour gravy over chicken, and serve with a border of rice or Turkish Pilaf.
47
Chicken en Casserole
Cut two small, young chickens in pieces for serving. Season with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, and bake in a casserole dish twelve minutes. Parboil one-third cup carrots cut in strips five minutes, drain, and fry with one tablespoon finely chopped onion and four thin slices bacon cut in narrow strips. Add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce and two-thirds cup potato balls. Add to chicken, with three tablespoons Sherry wine, salt and pepper to taste. Cook in a moderate oven twenty minutes, or until chicken is tender. If small casserole dishes are used allow but one chicken to each dish.
48
Breslin Potted Chicken
Dress, clean, and truss two broilers. Put in a casserole dish, brush over with two and one-half tablespoons melted butter, put on cover, and bake twenty minutes; then add one cup stock and cook until chicken is tender. Thicken stock with one tablespoon, each, butter and flour cooked together, and add one-half cup cooked potato balls, one-third cup canned string beans, cut in small pieces, one-third cup cooked carrot, cut in fancy shapes, and six sautéd mushroom caps.
49
Jellied Chicken
Dress, clean, and cut up a four-pound fowl. Put in a stewpan with two slices onion, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until meat falls from bones. When half cooked, add one-half tablespoon salt. Remove chicken; reduce stock to three-fourths cup, strain, and skim off fat. Decorate bottom of a mould with parsley and slices of hardboiled eggs. Pack in meat freed from skin and bone and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Pour on stock and place mould under heavy weight. Keep in a cold place until firm. In summer it is necessary to add one teaspoon dissolved granulated gelatine to stock.
50
Chickens’ Livers with Madeira Sauce
Clean and separate livers, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Brown two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock; then add two tablespoons Madeira wine, and reheat livers in sauce.
51
Chickens’ Livers with Bacon
Clean livers and cut each liver in six pieces. Wrap a thin slice of bacon around each piece and fasten with a small skewer. Put in a broiler, place over a
dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp, turning once during cooking.
52
Sautéd Chickens’ Livers
Cut one slice bacon in small pieces and cook five minutes with two tablespoons butter. Remove bacon, add one finely chopped shallot, and fry two minutes; then add six chickens’ livers cleaned and separated, and cook two minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, one cup Brown Stock, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one-fourth cup sliced mushrooms. Cook two minutes, turn into a serving dish, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
53
Chickens’ Livers with Curry
Clean and separate livers. Dip in seasoned crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and sauté in butter. Remove livers, and to fat in pan add two tablespoons butter, one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, and cook five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour mixed with one-half teaspoon curry powder and one cup stock. Strain sauce over livers, and serve around livers Rice Timbales.
54
Boiled Turkey
Prepare and cook same as Boiled Fowl. Serve with Oyster or Celery Sauce.
55
Roast Turkey
Dress, clean, stuff, and truss a ten-pound turkey . Place on its side on rack in a dripping-pan, rub entire surface with salt, and spread breast, legs, and wings with one-third cup butter, rubbed until creamy and mixed with one-fourth cup flour. Dredge bottom of pan with flour. Place in a hot oven, and when flour on turkey begins to brown, reduce heat, and baste every fifteen minutes until turkey is cooked, which will require about three hours. For basting use one-half cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water and after this is used baste with fat in pan. Pour water in pan during the cooking as needed to prevent flour from burning. During cooking turn turkey frequently, that it may brown evenly. If turkey is browning too fast, cover with buttered paper to prevent burning. Remove string and skewers before serving. Garnish with parsley, or celery tips, or curled celery and rings and discs of carrots strung on fine wire.
56
For stuffing, use double the quantities given in recipes under Roast Chicken. If stuffing is to be served cold, add one beaten egg. Turkey is often roasted with Chestnut Stuffing, Oyster Stuffing, or Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style). 57
Chestnut Stuffing
3 cups French chestnuts 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup butter 1/4 cup cream
1 teaspoon salt 1 cup cracker crumbs
Shell and blanch chestnuts. Cook in boiling salted water until soft. Drain and mash, using a potato ricer. Add one-half the butter, salt, pepper, and cream. Melt remaining butter, mix with cracker crumbs, then combine mixtures.
58
Oyster Stuffing
3 cups stale bread crumbs Salt and pepper
1/2 cup melted butter Few drops onion juice
1 pint oysters
Mix ingredients in the order given, add oysters, cleaned and drained from their liquor.
59
Turkey Stuffing (Swedish Style)
2 cups stale bread crumbs 1/2 cup English walnut meats, broken in pieces
2/3 cup melted butter
1/2 cup raisins, seeded and cut in pieces Salt and pepper
Sage
Mix ingredients in the order given.
60
Gravy
Pour off liquid in pan in which turkey has been roasted. From liquid skim off six tablespoons fat; return fat to pan and brown with six tablespoons flour; pour on gradually three cups stock in which giblets, neck, and tips of wings have been cooked, or use liquor left in pan. Cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper; strain. For Giblet Gravy add to the above, giblets (heart, liver, and gizzard) finely chopped.
61
Chestnut Gravy
To two cups thin Turkey Gravy add three-fourths cup cooked and mashed chestnuts.
62
To Carve Turkey
Bird should be placed on back, with legs at right of platter for carving. Introduce carving fork across breastbone, hold firmly in left hand, and with carving knife in right hand cut through skin between leg and body, close to body. With knife pull back leg and disjoint from body. Then cut off wing. Remove leg and wing from other side. Separate second joints from drum-sticks and divide wings at joints. Carve breast meat in thin crosswise slices. Under back on either side of backbone may be found two small, oyster-shaped pieces of dark meat, which are dainty tidbits. Chicken and fowl are carved in the same way. For a small family carve but one side of a turkey, that remainder may be left in better condition for second serving.
63
Roast Goose with Potato Stuffing
Singe, remove pinfeathers, wash and scrub a goose in hot soapsuds; then draw (which is removing inside contents). Wash in cold water and wipe. Stuff, truss, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and lay six thin strips fat salt pork over breast. Place on rack in dripping-pan, put in hot oven, and bake two hours. Baste every fifteen minutes with fat in pan. Remove pork last half-hour of cooking. Place on platter, cut string, and remove string and skewers. Garnish with watercress and bright red cranberries. Serve with Apple Sauce.
64
Potato Stuffing
2 cups hot mashed potato 1/3 cup butter
11/4 cups soft stale bread crumbs 1 egg
1/4 cup finely chopped fat salt pork 11/2 teaspoons salt
1 finely chopped onion 1 teaspoon sage
Add to potato, bread crumbs, butter, egg, salt, and sage; then add pork and onion.
65
Goose Stuffing (Chestnut)
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped shallot 1 cup chestnut purée
1/3 cup stale bread crumbs
3 tablespoons butter 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/4 lb. sausage meat
12 canned mushrooms, finely chopped 24 French chestnuts cooked and left whole
Salt and pepper
Cook shallot with butter five minutes, add sausage meat, and cook two minutes, then add mushrooms, chestnut purée, parsley, and salt and pepper. Heat to boiling-point, add bread crumbs and whole chestnuts. Cool mixture before stuffing goose.
66
To Truss a Goose
A goose, having short legs, is trussed differently from chicken, fowl, and turkey. After inserting skewers, wind string twice around one leg bone, then around other leg bone, having one inch space of string between legs. Draw legs with both ends of string close to back, cross string under back, then fasten around skewers and tie in a knot.
67
Roast Wild Duck
Dress and clean a wild duck and truss as goose. Place on rack in dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover breast with two very thin slices fat salt pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in a very hot oven, basting every five minutes with fat in pan; cut string and remove string and skewers. Serve with Orange or Olive Sauce. Currant jelly should accompany a duck course. Domestic ducks should always be well cooked, requiring little more than twice the time allowed for wild ducks.
68
Ducks are sometimes stuffed with apples, pared, cored, and cut in quarters, or three small onions may be put in body of duck to improve flavor. Neither apples nor onions are to be served. If a stuffing to be eaten is desired, cover pieces of dry bread with boiling water; as soon as bread has absorbed water, press out the water; season bread with salt, pepper, melted butter, finely chopped onion, or use. 69
Duck Stuffing (Peanut)
3/4 cup cracker crumbs 2 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup shelled peanuts, finely chopped Few drops onion juice
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup heavy cream Cayenne
Mix ingredients in the order given.
70
Braised Duck
Tough ducks are sometimes steamed one hour, and then braised in same manner as chicken.
71
Broiled Quail
Follow recipe for Broiling Chicken, allowing eight minutes for cooking. Serve on pieces of toast, and garnish with parsley and thin slices of lemon. Currant jelly or Rice Croquettes with Jelly should accompany this course.
72
Roast Quail
Dress, clean, lard, and truss a quail. Bake same as Larded Grouse, allowing fifteen to twenty minutes for cooking.
73
Larded Grouse
Clean, remove pinions, and if it be tough the skin covering breast. Lard breast and insert two lardoons in each leg. Truss, and place on trivet in small shallow pan; rub with salt, brush over with melted butter, dredge with flour, and surround with trimmings of fat salt pork. Bake twenty to twenty-five minutes in a hot oven, basting three times. Arrange on platter, remove string and skewers, pour around Bread Sauce, and sprinkle bird and sauce with coarse brown bread crumbs. Garnish with parsley.
74
Breast of Grouse Sauté Chasseur
Remove breasts from pair of grouse, and sauté in butter. When partially cooked, season with salt and pepper. Break carcasses in pieces, cover with cold water, add carrot, celery, onion, parsley, and bay leaf, and cook until stock is reduced to three-fourths cup. Arrange grouse on a serving dish, and pour around a sauce made of three tablespoons butter, four and one-half tablespoons flour, stock made from grouse, and three-fourths cup stewed and strained tomatoes. Season with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice, and add one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and one-half cup canned mushrooms cut in slices.
75
Broiled or Roasted Plover
Plover is broiled or roasted same as quail.
76
Potted Pigeons
Clean, stuff, and truss six pigeons, place upright in a stewpan, and add one quart boiling water in which celery has been cooked. Cover, and cook slowly three hours or until tender; or cook in over in a covered earthen dish. Remove from water, cool slightly, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat. Make a sauce with one-fourth cup, each, butter and flour cooked together and stock remaining in pan; there should be two cups. Place each bird on a slice of dry toast, and pour gravy over all. Garnish with parsley.
77
Stuffing
1 cup hot riced potatoes 1 tablespoon butter
1/4 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup soft stale bread crumbs soaked in some of the celery water and wrung in cheese-cloth
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 teaspoon marjoram or summer savory
Few drops onion juice Yolk 1 egg
Mix ingredients in order given.
78
Broiled Venison Steak
Follow recipe for Broiled Beefsteak. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter. Venison should always be cooked rare.
79
Venison Steaks, Sautéd, Cumberland Sauce
Cut venison steaks in circular pieces and use trimmings for the making of stock. Sauté steaks in hot buttered frying-pan and serve with.
80
Cumberland Sauce. Soak two tablespoons citron, cut in julienne-shaped pieces, two tablespoons glaced cherries, and one tablespoon Sultana raisins, in Port wine for several hours. Drain and cook fruit five minutes in one-third cup Port wine. Add one-half tumbler currant jelly, and, as soon as jelly is dissolved, add one and one-third cups Brown Sauce, and two tablespoons shredded almonds. 81
Venison Steak, Chestnut Sauce
Wipe steak, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a greased broiler, and broil five minutes. Remove to hot platter and pour over.
82
Chestnut Sauce. Fry one-half onion and six slices carrot, cut in small pieces, in two tablespoons butter, five minutes, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one and one-half cups Brown Stock, a sprig of parsley, a bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one teaspoon salt. Let simmer twenty minutes, strain, then add three tablespoons Madeira wine, one cup boiled French chestnuts, and one tablespoon butter. 83
Venison Cutlets
Clean and trim slices of venison cut from loin. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter or olive oil, and roll in soft stale bread crumbs. Place in a broiler and broil five minutes, or sauté in butter. Serve with Port Wine Sauce.
84
Roast Leg of Venison
Prepare and cook as Roast Lamb, allowing less time that it may be cooked rare.
85
Saddle of Venison
Clean and lard a saddle of venison. Cook same as Saddle of Mutton. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.
86
Belgian Hare à la Maryland
Follow directions for Chicken à la Maryland . Bake forty minutes, basting with bacon fat in place of butter.
87
Belgian Hare, Sour Cream Sauce
Clean and split a hare. Lard back and hind legs, and season with salt and pepper. Cook eight slices carrot cut in small pieces and one-half small onion in two tablespoons bacon fat five minutes. Add one cup Brown Stock, and pour around hare in pan. Bake forty-five minutes, basting often. Add one cup heavy cream and the juice of one lemon. Cook fifteen minutes longer, and baste every five minutes. Remove to serving dish, strain sauce, thicken, season with salt and pepper, and pour around hare.
88
WAYS OF WARMING OVER POULTRY AND GAME
Creamed Chicken
2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice 2 cup White Sauce II
1/8 teaspoon celery salt
Heat chicken dice in sauce, to which celery salt has been added.
89
Creamed Chicken with Mushrooms
Add to Creamed Chicken one-fourth cup mushrooms cut in slices.
90
Chicken with Potato Border
Serve Creamed Chicken in Potato Border.
91
Chicken in Baskets
To three cups hot mashed potatoes add three tablespoons butter, one teaspoon salt, yolks of three eggs slightly beaten, and enough milk to moisten. Shape in form of small baskets, using a pastry-bag and tube. Brush over with white of egg slightly beaten, and brown in oven. Fill with Creamed Chicken. Form handles for baskets of parsley.
92
Chicken and Oysters à la Métropole
1/4 cup butter 2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in dice
1/4 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 pint oysters, cleaned and drained
1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 cups cream 1/3 cup finely chopped celery
Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add chicken dice and oysters; cook until oysters are plump. Serve sprinkled with celery.
93
Luncheon Chicken
11/2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in small dice 1 cup Chicken Stock
Salt
2 tablespoons butter Pepper
1 slice carrot, cut in small cubes 2/3 cup buttered cracker crumbs
1 slice onion
2 tablespoons flour 4 eggs
Cook butter five minutes with vegetables, add flour, and gradually the stock. Strain, add chicken dice, and season with salt and pepper. Turn on a slightly buttered platter and sprinkle with cracker crumbs. Make four nests, and in each nest slip an egg; cover eggs with crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until whites of eggs are firm.
94
Blanquette of Chicken
2 cups cold cooked chicken, cut in strips 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1 cup White Sauce II Yolks 2 eggs
2 tablespoons milk
Add chicken to sauce; when well heated, add yolks of eggs slightly beaten, diluted with milk. Cook two minutes, then add parsley.
95
Scalloped Chicken
Butter a baking-dish. Arrange alternate layers of cold, cooked sliced chicken and boiled macaroni or rice. Pour over White, Brown, or Tomato Sauce, cover with buttered cracker crumbs, and bake in a hot oven until crumbs are brown.
96
Mock Terrapin
11/2 cups cold cooked chicken or veal, cut in dice Whites 2 “hard-boiled” eggs, chopped
1 cup White Sauce I 3 tablespoons Sherry wine
Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs, finely chopped 1/4 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Add to sauce, chicken, yolks and whites of eggs, salt, and cayenne; cook two minutes, and add wine.
97
Chicken Soufflé
2 cups scalded milk 2 cups cold cooked chicken, finely chopped
1/3 cup butter
1/8 cup flour Yolks 3 eggs, well beaten
1 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon finely-chopped parsley
1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup stale soft bread crumbs Whites 3 eggs, beaten stiff
Make a sauce of first five ingredients, add bread crumbs, and cook two minutes; remove from fire, add chicken, yolks of eggs, and parsley, then fold in whites of eggs. Turn in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake thirty-five minutes in a slow oven. Serve with White Mushroom Sauce. Veal may be used in place of chicken.
98
Chicken Hollandaise
11/2 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup finely chopped celery
1 teaspoon finely chopped onion 1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons corn-starch Few grains paprika
1 cup chicken stock 1 cup cold cooked chicken, cut in small cubes
1 teaspoon lemon juice
Yolk 1 egg
Cook butter and onion five minutes, add corn-starch and stock gradually. Add lemon juice, celery, salt, paprika, and chicken; when well heated, add yolk of egg slightly beaten, and cook one minute. Serve with buttered Graham toast.
99
Chicken Chartreuse
Prepare and cook same as Casserole of Rice and Meat, using chicken in place of lamb or veal. Season chicken with salt, pepper, celery salt, onion juice, and one-half teaspoon finely chopped parsley.
100
Scalloped Turkey
Make one cup of sauce, using two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, one-fourth teaspoon salt, few grains of pepper, and one cup stock (obtained by cooking in water bones and skin of a roast turkey). Cut remnants of cold roast turkey in small pieces; there should be one and one-half cups. Sprinkle bottom of buttered baking-dish with seasoned cracker crumbs, add turkey meat, pour over sauce, and sprinkle with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in a hot over until crumbs are brown. Turkey, chicken, or veal may be used separately or in combination.
101
Minced Turkey
To one cup cold roast turkey, cut in small dice, add one-third cup soft stale bread crumbs. Make one cup sauce, using two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup stock (obtained by cooking bones and skin of a roast turkey). Season with salt, pepper, and onion juice. Heat turkey and bread crumbs in
sauce. Serve on small pieces of toast, and garnish with poached eggs and toast points.
102
Salmi of Duck
Cut cold roast duck in pieces for serving. Reheat in Spanish Sauce.
103
Spanish Sauce. Melt one-fourth cup butter, add one tablespoon finely chopped onion, a stalk of celery, two slices carrot cut in pieces, and two tablespoons finely chopped lean raw ham. Cook until butter is brown, then add one-fourth cup flour, and when well browned add two cups Consommé, bit of bay leaf, sprig of parsley, blade of mace, two cloves, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper; cook five minutes. Strain, add duck, and when reheated add Sherry wine, stoned olives, and mushrooms cut in quarters. Arrange on dish for serving, and garnish with olives and mushrooms. Grouse may be used in place of duck.

PORK.

PORK is the flesh and fat of pig or hog. Different parts of the creature, when dressed, take different names. 1
The chine and spareribs, which correspond to the loin in lamb and veal, are used for roasts or steaks. Two ribs are left on the chine. The hind legs furnish hams. These are cured, salted, and smoked. Sugar-cured hams are considered the best. Pickle, to which is added light brown sugar, molasses, and saltpetre, is introduced close to bone; hams are allowed to hang one week, then smoked with hickory wood. Shoulders are usually corned, or salted and smoked, though sometimes cooked fresh. Pigs’ feet are boiled until tender, split, and covered with vinegar made from white wine. Hocks, the part just above the feet, are corned, and much used by Germans. Heads are soused, and cooked by boiling. The flank, which lies just below the ribs, is salted and smoked, and furnishes bacon. The best pieces of fat salt pork come from the back, on either side of backbone. 2
Fat, when separated from flesh and membrane, is tried out and called lard. Leaf-lard is the best, and is tried out from the leaf shaped pieces of solid fat which lie inside the flank. Sausages are trimmings of lean and fat meat, minced, highly seasoned, and forced into thin casings made of the prepared entrails. Little pigs (four weeks old) are sometimes killed, dressed, and roasted whole. 3
Pork contains the largest percentage of fat of any meat. When eaten fresh it is the most difficult of digestion, and although found in market through the entire year, it should be but seldom served, and then only during the winter months. By curing, salting, and smoking, pork is rendered more wholesome. Bacon, next to butter and cream, is the most easily assimilated of all fatty foods. 4
Pork Chops
Wipe chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a hot frying-pan, and cook slowly until tender, and well browned on each side.
5
Pork Chops with Fried Apples
Arrange Pork Chops on a platter, and surround with slices of apples, cut one-half inch thick, fried in the fat remaining in pan.
6
Roast Pork
Wipe pork, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on a rack in a dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in a moderate oven three or four hours, basting every fifteen minutes with fat in pan. Make a gravy as for other roasts.
7
Pork Tenderloins with Sweet Potatoes
Wipe tenderloins, put in a dripping-pan, and brown quickly in a hot oven; then sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake forty-five minutes, basting every fifteen minutes.
8
Sweet Potatoes. Pare six potatoes and parboil ten minutes, drain, put in pan with meat, and cook until soft, basting when basting meat. 9
Breakfast Bacon
See Liver and Bacon, page 207.
10
Fried Salt Pork with Codfish
Cut fat salt pork in one-fourth inch slices, cut gashes one-third inch apart in slices, nearly to rind. Try out in a hot frying-pan until brown and crisp, occasionally turning off fat from pan. Serve around strips of codfish which have been soaked in pan of lukewarm water and allowed to stand on back of range until soft. Serve with Drawn Butter Sauce, boiled potatoes, and beets.
11
Broiled Ham
Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, wipe, and broil three minutes.
12
Fried Ham and Eggs
Wipe ham, remove one-half outside layer of fat, and place in frying-pan. Cover with tepid water and let stand on back of range thirty minutes; drain, and dry on a towel. Heat pan, put in ham, brown quickly on one side, turn and brown other side; or soak ham over night, dry, and cook in hot frying-pan. If cooked too long, ham will become hard and dry. Serve with fried eggs cooked in the tried-out ham fat.
13
Barbecued Ham
Soak thin slices of ham one hour in lukewarm water; drain, wipe, and cook in a hot frying-pan until slightly browned. Remove to serving dish and add to fat in pan three tablespoons vinegar mixed with one and one-half teaspoons mustard, one-half teaspoon sugar, and one-eighth teaspoon paprika. When thoroughly heated pour over ham and serve at once.
14
Boiled Ham
Soak several hours or over night in cold water to cover. Wash thoroughly, trim off hard skin near end of bone, put in a kettle, cover with cold water, heat to boiling-point, and cook slowly until tender. See Time Table for Cooking, page 28. Remove kettle from range and set aside, that ham may partially cool; then take from water, remove outside skin, sprinkle with sugar and fine cracker crumbs, and stick with cloves one-half inch apart. Bake one hour in a slow oven. Serve cold, thinly sliced.
15
Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce
Place a whole baked ham in the oven fifteen minutes before serving time, that outside fat may be heated. Remove to a hot platter, garnish bone end with a paper ruffle, and serve with Champagne Sauce.
16
Westphalian Ham
These hams are imported from Germany, and need no additional cooking. Cut in very thin slices for serving.
17
Broiled Pigs’ Feet
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and broil six to eight minutes. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter or Sauce Piquante.
18
Fried Pigs’ Feet
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.
19
Sausages
Cut apart a string of sausages. Pierce each sausage several times with a carving fork. Put in frying-pan, cover with boiling water, and cook fifteen minutes; drain, return to frying-pan, and fry until well browned. Serve with fried apples. Sausages are often broiled same as bacon and apples baked in pan under them.
20
Boston Baked Beans
Pick over one quart pea beans, cover with cold water, and soak over night. In morning, drain, cover with fresh water, heat slowly (keeping water below boiling-point), and cook until skins will burst,—which is best determined by taking a few beans on the tip of a spoon and blowing on them, when skins will burst if sufficiently cooked. Beans thus tested must, of course, be thrown away. Drain beans, throwing bean-water out of doors, not in sink. Scald rind of three-fourths pound fat salt pork, scrape, remove one-fourth inch slice and put in bottom of bean-pot. Cut through rind of remaining pork every one-half inch, making cuts one inch deep. Put beans in pot and bury pork in beans, leaving rind exposed. Mix one tablespoon salt, one tablespoon molasses, and three tablespoons sugar; add one cup boiling water, and pour over beans; then add enough more boiling water to cover beans. Cover bean-pot, put in oven, and bake slowly six or eight hours, uncovering the last hour of cooking, that rind may become brown and crisp. Add water as needed. Many feel sure that by adding with seasonings one-half tablespoon mustard, the beans are more easily digested. If pork mixed with lean is preferred, use less salt.
21
The fine reputation which Boston Baked Beans have gained has been attributed to the earthen bean-pot with small top and bulging sides in which they are supposed to be cooked. Equally good beans have often been eaten where a five-pound lard pail was substituted for the broken bean pot. 22
Yellow-eyed beans are very good when baked. 23

VEAL

VEAL is the meat obtained from a young calf killed when six to eight weeks old. Veal from a younger animal is very unwholesome, and is liable to provoke serious gastric disturbances. Veal contains a much smaller percentage of fat than beef or mutton, is less nutritious, and (though from a young creature) more difficult of digestion. Like lamb, it is not improved by long hanging, but should be eaten soon after killing and dressing. It should always be remembered that the flesh of young animals does not keep fresh as long as that of older ones. Veal is divided in same manner as lamb, into fore and hind quarters. The fore-quarter is subdivided into breast, shoulder, and neck; the hind-quarter into loin, leg, and knuckle. Cutlets, fillets (cushion), and fricandeau are cut from the thick part of leg. 1
Good veal may be known by its pinkish-colored flesh and white fat; when the flesh lacks color, it has been taken from a creature which was too young to kill for food, or, if of the right age, was bled before killing. Veal may be obtained throughout the year, but is in season during the spring. Veal should be thoroughly cooked; being deficient in fat and having but little flavor, pork or butter should be added while cooking, and more seasoning is required than for other meats. 2
Veal Cutlets
Use slices of veal from leg cut one-half inch thick. Wipe, remove bone and skin, then cut in pieces for serving. The long, irregular-shaped pieces may be rolled, and fastened with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip in flour, egg, and crumbs; fry slowly, until well browned, in salt pork fat or butter; then remove cutlets to stewpan and pour over one and one-half cups Brown Sauce. Place on back of range and cook slowly forty minutes, or until cutlets are tender.
3
Veal may be cooked first in boiling water until tender, then crumbed and fried. The water in which veal was cooked may be used for sauce. Arrange on hot platter, strain sauce and pour around cutlets, and garnish with parsley. 4
Brown Sauce. Brown three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned. Add gradually one and one-half cups stock or water, or half stock and half stewed and strained tomatoes. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and Worcestershire Sauce. The trimmings from veal (including skin and bones) may be covered with one and one-half cups cold water, allowed to heat slowly to boiling-point, then cooked, strained, and used for sauce. 5
Veal Chops Bavarian
Wipe six loin chops and put in a stewpan with one-half onion, eight slices carrot, two stalks celery, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, four cloves, and two tablespoons butter. Cover with boiling water and cook until tender. Drain, season with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Arrange chops on hot serving dish and surround with boiled flat maccaroni to which Soubise Sauce is added.
6
Fricassee of Veal
Wipe two pounds sliced veal, cut from loin, and cover with boiling water; add one small onion, two stalks celery, and six slices carrot. Cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat. Strain liquor (there should be two cups). Melt four tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour and strained liquor. Bring to boiling-point, season with salt and pepper, and pour around meat. Garnish with parsley.
7
Minuten Fleisch
11/2 lbs. veal cut in thin slices Flour
11/3 cups Brown Stock
Salt and pepper Juice 1 lemon
2/3 cup claret wine 2 sprigs parsley
Pound veal until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in bakingpan, pour over wine, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip in flour, arrange in two buttered pans, and pour over remaining ingredients and wine which was drained from meat. Cover, and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour over sauce remaining in pan.
8
Loin of Veal à la Jardiniére
Wipe four pounds loin of veal, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Put one-fourth cup butter in deep stewpan; when melted, add veal and brown entire surface of meat, watching carefully and turning often, that it may
not burn. Add one cup hot water, cover closely, and cook slowly two hours, or until meat is tender, adding more water as needed, using in all about three cups. Remove meat, thicken stock remaining in pan with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Surround the meat with two cups each boiled turnips and carrots, cut in half-inch cubes, and potatoes cut in balls. Serve gravy in a tureen.
9
Braised Shoulder of Veal
Bone, stuff, and sew in shape five pounds shoulder of veal; then cook same as Braised Beef, adding with vegetables two sprigs thyme and one of marjoram.
10
English Meat Pie
Knuckle of veal Blade of mace
1 slice onion 2 teaspoons salt
1 slice carrot 1/2 lb. lean raw ham
Bit of bay leaf 4 tablespoons flour
Sprig of parsley 4 tablespoons butter
12 peppercorns 2 doz. bearded oysters
Remove meat from bones. Cover bones with cold water, add vegetables and seasonings, and heat slowly to boilingpoint. Add meat, boil five minutes, and let simmer until meat is tender; remove meat and reduce stock to two cups. Put ham in frying-pan, cover with lukewarm water, and let stand on back of range one hour. Brown butter, and flour, and when well browned add stock; then add veal and ham each cut into cubes. Let simmer twenty minutes and add oysters. Put in serving dish and cover with top made of puff paste. It is much better to bake the paste separately and cover pie just before sending to table.
11
Roast Veal
The leg, cushion (thickest part of leg), and loin, are suitable pieces for roasting. When leg is to be used, it should be boned at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, stuff, and sew in shape. Place on rack in dripping-pan, dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour, and place around meat strips of fat salt pork. Bake three or four hours in moderate oven, basting every fifteen minutes with one-third cup butter melted in one-half cup boiling water, until used, then baste with fat in pan. Serve with brown gravy.
12
Fricandeau of Veal
Lard a cushion of veal and roast or braise.
13
India Curry
Wipe a slice of veal one-half inch thick, weighing one and one-half pounds, and cook in frying-pan without butter, quickly searing one side, then the other. Place on a board and cut in one and one-half inch pieces. Fry two sliced onions in one-half cup butter until brown, remove onions, and add to the butter, meat, and one-half tablespoon curry powder, then cover with boiling water. Cook slowly until meat is tender. Thicken with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily; then add one teaspoon vinegar. Serve with a border of steamed rice.
14
Veal Birds
Wipe slices of veal from leg, cut as thinly as possible, then remove bone, skin, and fat. Pound until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces two and one-half
inches long by one and one-half inches wide, each piece making a bird. Chop trimmings of meat, adding for every three birds a piece of fat salt pork cut one inch square and one-fourth inch thick; pork also to be chopped. Add to trimmings and pork one-half their measure of fine cracker crumbs, and season highly with salt, pepper, cayenne, poultry seasoning, lemon juice, and onion juice. Moisten with beaten egg and hot water or stock. Spread each piece with thin layer of mixture and avoid having mixture come close to edge. Roll, and fasten with skewers. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in hot butter until a golden brown. Put in stewpan, add cream to half cover meat, cook slowly twenty minutes or until tender. Serve on small pieces of toast, straining cream remaining in pan over birds and toast, and garnish with parsley. A Thin White Sauce in place of cream may be served around birds.
15
Veal Loaf I
Separate a knuckle of veal in pieces b sawing through bone. Wipe, put in kettle with one pound lean veal and one onion; cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until veal is tender. Drain, chop meat finely, and season highly with salt and pepper. Garnish bottom of a mould with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and parsley. Put in layer of meat, layer of thinly sliced “hard-boiled” eggs, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, and cover with remaining meat. Pour over liquor, which should be reduced to one cupful. Press and chill, turn on a dish, and garnish with parsley.
16
Veal Loaf II
Wipe three pounds lean veal, and remove skin and membrane. Chop finely or force through meat chopper, then add one-half pound fat salt pork (also finely chopped), six common crackers (rolled), four tablespoons cream, two tablespoons lemon juice, one tablespoon salt, one-half tablespoon pepper, and a few drops onion juice. Pack in a small bread-pan, smooth evenly on top, brush with white of egg, and bake slowly three hours, basting with one-fourth cup pork fat. Prick frequently while baking, that pork fat may be absorbed by meat. Cool, remove from pan, and cut in thin slices for serving.
17
Broiled Veal Kidneys
Order veal kidneys with the suet left on. Trim, split, and broil ten minutes. Arrange on pieces of toast and pour over melted butter seasoned with salt, cayenne, and lemon juice.
18
Veal Kidneys à la Canfield
Trim kidneys, cook in Brown Stock ten minutes, drain, and cut in slices. Arrange alternate slices of kidney and thinly sliced bacon on skewers with a fresh mushroom cap at either end of each skewer. Broil until bacon is crisp and arrange on pieces of toast. Pour over sauce made from stock in which kidneys ere cooked, seasoned with salt, cayenne, and Madeira wine.
19
WAYS OF WARMING OVER VEAL
Minced Veal on Toast
Prepare as Minced Lamb on Toast, using veal in place of lamb.
20
Blanquette of Veal
Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in small strips, in one and one-half cups White Sauce I. Serve in a potato border and sprinkle over all finely chopped parsley.
21
Ragoût of Veal
Reheat two cups cold roast veal, cut in cubes, in one and one-half cups Brown Sauce seasoned with one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, few drops of onion juice, and a few grains of cayenne.

LAMB AND MUTTON.

LAMB is the name given to the meat of lambs; mutton, to the meat of sheep. Lamb, coming as it does from the young creature, is immature, and less nutritious than mutton. The flesh of mutton ranks with the flesh of beef in nutritive value and digestibility. The fat of mutton, on account of its larger percentage of stearic acid, is more difficult of digestion than the fat of beef. 1
Lamb may be eaten soon after the animal is killed and dressed; mutton must hang to ripen. Good mutton comes from a sheep about three years old, and should hang from two to three weeks. The English South Down Mutton is cut from creatures even older than three years. Young lamb, when killed from six weeks to three months old, is called spring lamb, and appears in the market as early as the last of January, but is very scarce until March. Lamb one year old is called
a yearling. Many object to the strong flavor of mutton; this is greatly overcome by removing the pink skin and trimming off superfluous fat. 2
Lamb and mutton are divided into two parts by cutting through entire length of backbone; then subdivided into fore and hind quarter, eight ribs being left on hind quarter,—while in beef but three ribs are left on hind-quarter. These eight ribs are cut into chops and are known as rib chops. The meat which lies between these ribs and the leg, cut into chops, is known as loin or kidney chops. 3
Lamb and mutton chops cut from loin have a small piece of tenderloin on one side of bone, and correspond to porter-house steaks in the beef creature. Rib chops which have the bone cut short and scraped clean, nearly to the lean meat, are called French chops. 4
The leg is sold whole for boiling or roasting. The forequarter may be boned, stuffed, rolled, and roasted, but is more often used for broth, stew, or fricassee. 5
For a saddle of mutton the loin is removed whole before splitting the creature. Some of the bones are removed and the flank ends are rolled, fastened with wooden skewers, and securely tied to keep skewers in place. 6
Good quality mutton should be fine-grained and of bright pink color; the fat white, hard, and flaky. If the outside skin comes off easily, mutton is sure to be good. Lamb chops may be easily distinguished from mutton chops by the red color of bone. As lamb grows older, blood recedes from bones; therefore in mutton the bone is white. In leg of lamb the bone at joint is serrated, while in leg of mutton the bone at joint is smooth and rounded. Good mutton contains a larger proportion of fat than good beef. Poor mutton is often told by the relatively small proportion of fat and lean as compared to bone. 7
Lamb is usually preferred well done; mutton is often cooked rare. 8
Broiled Lamb or Mutton Chops
Wipe chops, remove superfluous fat, and place in a broiler greased with some of mutton fat. In loin chops, flank may be rolled and fastened with a small wooden skewer. Follow directions for Broiling Beefsteak on page 196.
9
Pan-broiled Chops
Chops for pan broiling should have flank and most of fat removed. Wipe chops and put in hissing hot frying-pan.
10
Turn as soon as under surface is seared, and sear other side. Turn often, using knife and fork that the surface may not be pierced, as would be liable if fork alone were used. Cook eight minutes if liked rare, ten to twelve minutes if liked well done. Let stand around edge of frying-pan to brown the outside fat. When half cooked, sprinkle with salt. Drain on brown paper, put on hot platter, and spread with butter or serve with Tomato or Soubise Sauce. 11
Breaded Mutton Chops
Wipe and trim chops, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat from five to eight minutes, and drain. Serve with Tomato Sauce, or stack around a mound of mashed potatoes, fried potato balls, or green peas. Never fry but four at a time, and allow fat to reheat between fryings. After testing fat for temperature, put in chops and place kettle on back of range, that surface of chops may not be too brown while the inside is still underdone.
12
Chops à la Signora
Gash French Chops on outer edge, extending cut half-way through lean meat. Insert in each gash a slice of truffle, sprinkle with salt and pepper, wrap in calf’s caul. Roll in flour, dip in egg, then in stale bread crumbs, and sauté in butter eight minutes, turning often. Place in oven four minutes to finish cooking. Arrange on hot platter for serving, and place on top of each a fresh broiled mushroom or mushroom baked in cream. To fat in pan add a small quantity of boiling water and pour around chops. This is a delicious way of cooking chops for a dinner party.
13
Lamb Chops à la Marseilles
Pan broil, on one side, six French chops, cover cooked side with Mushroom Sauce, place in a buttered baking-dish, and bake in a hot oven eight minutes. Remove to serving dish, place a paper frill on each chop, and garnish with parsley.
14
Mushroom Sauce. Brown one and one-half tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one-half cup highly seasoned Brown Stock. Add one-fourth cup chopped canned mushrooms, and season with salt and pepper. 15
Chops à la Castillane
Broil six lamb chops, arrange on slices of fried egg-plant, and pour around the following sauce: Brown three tablespoons butter, add three and one-half tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add, gradually, one cup rich Brown Stock. Cook three tablespoons lean raw ham cut in small cubes in one-half tablespoon butter two minutes. Moisten with two tablespoons Sherry wine, and add to sauce with two tablespoons finely shredded green pepper. Season with salt and pepper.
16
Chops en Papillote
Finely chop the whites of three “hard-boiled” eggs and force yolks through potato ricer, mix, and add to three common crackers, rolled and sifted; then add three tablespoons melted butter, salt, pepper, and onion juice, to taste. Add enough cream to make of right consistency to spread. Cover chops thinly with mixture and wrap in buttered paper cases. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from cases, place on hot platter, and garnish with parsley.
17
Mutton Cutlets à la Maintenon
Wipe six French Chops, cut one and one-half inches thick. Split meat in halves, cutting to bone. Cook two and one-half tablespoons butter and one tablespoon onion five minutes; remove onion, add one-half cup chopped mushrooms, and cook five minutes; then add two tablespoons flour, three tablespoons stock, one teaspoon finely chopped parsley, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Spread mixture between layers of chops, press together lightly, wrap in buttered paper cases, and broil ten minutes. Serve with Spanish Sauce.
18
Boiled Leg of Mutton
Wipe meat, place in a kettle, and cover with boiling water. Bring quickly to boiling-point, boil five minutes, and skim. Set on back of range and simmer until meat is tender. When half done, add one tablespoon salt. Serve with Caper Sauce, or add to two cups White Sauce (made of one-half milk and one-half Mutton Stock), two “hard-boiled” eggs cut in slices.
19
Braised Leg of Mutton
Order a leg of mutton boned. Wipe, stuff, sew, and place in deep pan. Cook five minutes in one-fourth cup butter, a slice each of onion, carrot, and turnip cut in dice, one-half bay leaf, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley. Add three cups hot water, one and one-half teaspoons salt, and twelve peppercorns; pour over mutton. Cover closely, and cook slowly three hours, uncovering for the last half-hour. Remove from pan to hot platter. Brown three tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly the strained liquor; there should be one and three-fourths cups.
20
Stuffing
1 cup cracker crumbs 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup melted butter 1/2 tablespoon Poultry Seasoning
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup boiling water
Roast Lamb
A leg of lamb is usually sent from market wrapped in caul; remove caul, wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place or rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Place in hot oven, and baste as soon as flour in pan is brown, and every fifteen minutes afterwards until meat is done, which will take about one and three-fourths hours. It may be necessary to put a small quantity of water in pan while meat is cooking. Leg of lamb may be boned and stuffed for roasting. See Stuffing, under Braised Mutton.
21
Make gravy, following directions for Roast Beef Gravy on page 202, or serve with Currant Jelly Sauce. 22
To Carve a Leg of Lamb. Cut in thin slices across grain of meat to the bone, beginning at top of the leg. 23
Lamb Bretonne
Serve hot thinly sliced roast lamb with
24
Beans Bretonne. Soak one and one-half cups pea beans over night in cold water to cover, drain, and parboil until soft; again drain, put in earthen-ware dish or bean pot, add tomato sauce, cover, and cook until beans have nearly absorbed sauce. 25
Tomato Sauce. Mix one cup stewed and strained tomatoes, one cup white stock, six canned pimentoes rubbed through a sieve, one onion finely chopped, two cloves garlic finely chopped, one-fourth cup butter, and two teaspoons salt. 26
Saddle of Mutton
Mutton for a saddle should always be dressed at market. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Serve with Currant Jelly Sauce.
27
To Carve a Saddle of Mutton, cut this slices parallel with backbone, then slip the knife under and separate slices from ribs. 28
Saddle of Mutton, Currant Mint Sauce
Follow directions for Saddle of Mutton, and serve with
29
Currant Mint Sauce. Separate two-thirds tumbler of currant jelly in pieces, but do not beat it. Add one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped mint leaves and shavings from the rind of one-fourth orange. 30
Saddle of Lamb à l’Estragnon
Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, place on rack in dripping-pan, and dredge meat and bottom of pan with flour. Bake in hot oven one and one-fourth hours, basting every fifteen minutes. Remove to hot serving dish and pour around.
31
Estragnon Sauce. Brown four tablespoons butter, add four tablespoons flour (which has been previously browned), and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, two cups bouillon, and one-half cup stock which has infused with one tablespoon tarragon one hour. 32
Crown of Lamb
Select parts from two loins containing ribs, scrape flesh from bone between ribs, as far as lean meat, and trim off backbone. Shape each piece in a semicircle, having ribs outside, and sew pieces together to form a crown. Trim ends of bones evenly, care being taken that they are not left too long, and wrap each bone in a thin strip of fat salt pork or insert in cubes of fat salt pork to prevent bone from burning; then cover with buttered paper. Roast one and one-fourth hours.
33
Remove pork from bones before serving, and fill centre with Purée of Chestnuts. 34
Lamb en Casserole
Wipe two slices of lamb cut one and one-fourth inches thick from centre of leg. Put in hot frying-pan, and turn frequently until seared and browned on both sides. Brush over with melted butter, season with salt and pepper, and bake in casserole dish twenty minutes or until tender. Parboil three-fourths cup carrot, cut in strips, fifteen minutes; drain, and sauté in one tablespoon bacon fat to which has been added one tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add to lamb, with one cup potato balls, two cups thin Brown Sauce, three tablespoons Sherry wine, and pepper to taste. Cook until potatoes are soft, then add twelve small onions cooked until soft, then drained and sautéd in two tablespoons butter to which is added one tablespoon sugar. Onions need not be sautéd unless they are desired glazed. Serve from casserole dish.
35
Mutton Curry
Wipe and cut meat from fore-quarter of mutton in one-inch pieces; there should be three cupfuls. Put in kettle, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain in colander and pour over one quart cold water. Return meat to kettle, cover with one quart boiling water, add three onions cut in slices, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and a sprig each of thyme and parsley. Simmer until meat is tender, remove meat, strain liquor, and thicken with one-fourth cup each of butter and flour cooked together; to the flour add one-half teaspoon curry powder, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-eighth teaspoon pepper. Add meat to gravy reheat, and serve with border of steamed rice.
36
Fricassee of Lamb with Brown Gravy
Order three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter, cut in pieces for serving. Wipe meat, put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove from water, cool, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter or mutton fat. Arrange on platter, and pour around one and one-half cups Brown Sauce made from liquor in which meat was cooked
after removing all fat. It is better to cook meat the day before serving, as then fat may be more easily removed.
37
Mutton Broth
3 lbs: mutton (from the neck) Few grains pepper
2 quarts cold water 3 tablespoons rice or
1 teaspoon salt 3 tablespoons barley
Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut in small pieces. Put into kettle with bones, and cover with cold water. Heat gradually to boiling-point, skim, then season with salt and pepper. Cook slowly until meat is tender, strain, and remove fat. Reheat to boiling-point, add rice or barley, and cook until rice or barley is tender. If barley is used, soak over night in cold water. Some of the meat may be served with the broth.
38
Irish Stew with Dumplings
Wipe and cut in pieces three pounds lamb from the fore-quarter. Put in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours or until tender. After cooking one hour add one-half cup each carrot and turnip cut in one-half inch cubes, and one onion cut in slices. Fifteen minutes before serving add four cups potatoes cut in one-fourth inch slices, previously parboiled five minutes in boiling water. Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold water to form a thin smooth paste. Season with salt and pepper, serve with Dumplings. (See p. 205.)
39
Scotch Broth
Wipe three pounds mutton cut from fore-quarter. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes, put in kettle, cover with three pints cold water, bring quickly to boiling-point, skim, and add one-half cup barley which has been soaked in cold water over night; simmer one and one-half hours, or until meat is tender. Put bones in a second kettle, cover with cold water, heat slowly to boiling-point, skim, and boil one and one-half hours. Strain water from bones and add to meat. Fry five minutes in two tablespoons butter, one-fourth cup each of carrot, turnip, onion, and celery, cut in one-half inch dice, add to soup with salt and pepper to taste, and cook until vegetables are soft. Thicken with two tablespoons each of butter and flour cooked together. Add one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley just before serving. Rice may be used in place of barley.
40
Lambs’ Kidneys I
Soak, pare, and cut in slices six kidneys, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Melt two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, pu\??\ in kidneys, and cook five minutes; dredge thoroughly with flour, and add two-thirds cup boiling water or hot Brown Stock. Cook five minutes, add more salt and pepper if needed. Lemon juice, onion juice, or Madeira wine may be used for additional flavor. Kidneys must be cooked a short time, or for several hours; they are tender after a few minutes’ cooking, but soon toughen, and need hours of cooking to again make them tender.
41
Lambs’ Kidneys II
Soak, pare, trim, and slice six kidneys. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, sauté in butter, and remove to a hot dish. Cook one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion in two tablespoons butter until brown; add three tablespoons flour, and pour on
slowly one and one-half cups hot stock. Season with salt and pepper, strain, add kidneys, and one tablespoon Madeira wine.
42
Ragout of Kidneys
Soak lambs’ kidneys one hour in lukewarm water. Drain, clean, cut in slices, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Fry one sliced onion and one-half shallot, finely chopped, in three tablespoons butter until yellow; add three tablespoons flour and one and one-fourth cups Brown Stock. Cook five minutes, strain, and add one-half cup mushroom caps peeled and cut in quarters; season with salt and pepper, add kidneys, and serve as soon as heated. White wine may be added if desired.
43
Kidney Rolls
Mix one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one-half small onion, finely chopped, and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Season with salt and pepper and moisten with beaten egg. Spread mixture on thin slices of bacon, fasten around pieces of lambs’ kidney, using skewers. Bake in a hot oven twenty minutes.
44
WAYS OF WARMING OVER MUTTON AND LAMB
Minced Lamb on Toast
Remove dry pieces of skin and gristle from remnants of cold roast lamb, then chop meat. Heat in well-buttered frying-pan, season with salt, pepper, and celery salt, and moisten with a little hot water or stock; or, after seasoning, dredge well with flour, stir, and add enough stock to make thin gravy. Pour over small slices of buttered toast.
45
Scalloped Lamb
Remove skin and fat from thin slices of cold roast lamb, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cover bottom of a buttered baking-dish with buttered cracker crumbs; cover meat with boiled macaroni, and add another layer of meat and macaroni. Pour over Tomato Sauce, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. Cold boiled rice may be used in place of macaroni.
46
Blanquette of Lamb
Cut remnants of cooked lamb in cubes or strips. Reheat two cups meat in two cups sauce,—sauce made of one-fourth cup each of butter and flour, one cup White Stock, and one cup of milk which has been scalded with two blades of mace. Season with salt and pepper, and add one tablespoon Mushroom Catsup, or any other suitable table sauce. Garnish with large croûtons, serve around green peas, or in a potato border, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
47
Barbecued Lamb
Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices and reheat in sauce made by melting two tablespoons butter, adding three-fourths tablespoon vinegar, one-fourth cup currant jelly, one-fourth teaspoon French mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste.
48
Rechauffé of Lamb
Brown two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one-fourth teaspoon, each, curry powder, mustard,
and salt, and one-eighth teaspoon paprika. Add, gradually, one cup brown stock and two tablespoons sherry wine. Reheat cold roast lamb cut in thin slices in sauce.
49
Salmi of Lamb
Cut cold roast lamb in thin slices. Cook five minutes two tablespoons butter with one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion. Add lamb, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and cover with one cup Brown Sauce, or one cup cold lamb gravy seasoned with Worcestershire, Harvey, or Elizabeth Sauce. Cook until thoroughly heated. Arrange slices overlapping one another lengthwise of platter, pour around sauce, and garnish with toast points. A few sliced mushrooms or stoned olives improve this sauce.
50
Casserole of Rice and Meat
Line a mould, slightly greased, with steamed rice. Fill the centre with two cups cold, finely chopped, cooked mutton, highly seasoned with salt, pepper, cayenne, celery salt, onion juice and lemon juice; then add one-fourth cup cracker crumbs, one egg slightly beaten, and enough hot stock or water to moisten. Cover meat with rice, cover rice with buttered paper to keep out moisture while steaming, and steam forty-five minutes. Serve on a platter surrounded with Tomato Sauce. Veal may be used in place of mutton.
51
Breast of Lamb
Wipe a breast of lamb, put in kettle with bouquet of sweet herbs, a small onion stuck with six cloves, one-half tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, and one-fourth cup each carrot and turnip cut in dice. Cover with boiling water, and simmer until bones will slip out easily. Take meat from water, remove bones, and press under weight. When cool, trim in shape, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Serve with Spanish Sauce. Small pieces of cold lamb may be sprinkled with salt and pepper, dipped in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fried in deep fat.

BEEF.

MEAT is the name applied to the flesh of all animals used for food. Beef is the meat of steer, ox, or cow, and is the most nutritious and largely consumed of all animal foods. Meat is chiefly composed of the albuminoids (fibrin, albumen, gelatin), fat, mineral matter, and water. 1
Fibrin is that substance in blood which causes it to coagulate when shed. It consists of innumerable delicate fibrils which entangle the blood corpuscles, and form with them a mass called blood clot. Fibrin is insoluble in both cold and hot water. 2
Albumen is a substance found in the blood and muscle. It is soluble in cold water, and is coagulated by hot water or heat. It begins to coagulate at 134° F. and becomes solid at 160° F. Here lies the necessity of cooking meat in hot water at a low temperature; of broiling meat at a high temperature, to quickly sear surface. 3
Gelatin in its raw state is termed collagen. It is a transparent, tasteless substance, obtained by boiling with water, muscle, skin, cartilage, bone, tendon, ligament, or membrane of animals. By this process, collagen of connective tissues is dissolved and converted into gelatin. Gelatin is insoluble in cold water, soluble in hot water, but in boiling water is decomposed, and by much boiling will not solidify on cooling. When subjected to cold water it swells, and is called hydrated gelatin. Myosin is the albuminoid of muscle, collagen of tendons, ossein of bones, and chondrin of cartilage and gristle. 4
Gelatin, although highly nitrogenous, does not act in the system as other nitrogenous foods, as a large quantity passes out unchanged. 5
Fat is the white or yellowish oily solid substance forming the chief part of the adipose tissue. Fat is found in thick layers directly under the skin, in other parts of the body, in bone, and is intermingled throughout the flesh. Fat as food is a great heat giver and force-producer. Suet is the name given to fat which lies about the loins and kidneys. Beef suet tried out and clarified is much used in cookery for shortening and frying. 6
Mineral Matter The largest amount of mineral matter is found in bone. It is principally calcium phosphate (phosphate of lime). Sodium chloride (common salt) is found in the blood and throughout the tissues. 7
Water abounds in all animals, constituting a large percentage of their weight. 8
The color of meat is due to the coloring matter (hæmoglobin) which abounds in the red corpuscles of the blood. 9
The distinctive flavor of meat is principally due to peptones and allied substances, and is intensified by the presence of sodium chloride and other salts. 10
The beef creature is divided by splitting through the back-bone in two parts, each part being called a side of beef. Four hundred and fifty pounds is good market weight for a side of beef. 11
The most expensive cuts come from that part of the creature where muscles are but little used, which makes the meat finer-grained and consequently more tender, taking less time for cooking. Many of the cheapest cuts, though equally nutritious, need long, slow cooking to render them tender enough to digest easily. Tough meat which has long and coarse fibres is often found to be very juicy, on account of the greater motion of that part of the creature, which causes the juices to flow freely. Roasting and broiling, which develop so fine a flavor, can only be applied to the more expensive cuts. The liver kidneys, and heart are of firm, close texture, and difficult of digestion. Tripe, which is the first stomach of the ox, is easy of digestion, but on account of the large amount of fat which it contains, it is undesirable for those of weak digestion. 12
The quality of beef depends on age of the creature and manner of feeding. The best beef is obtained from a steer of four or five years. Good beef should be firm and of fine-grained texture, bright red in color, and well mottled and coated with fat. The fat should be firm and of a yellowish color. Suet should be dry, and crumble easily. Beef should not be eaten as soon as killed, but allowed to hang and ripen,—from two to three weeks in winter, and two weeks in summer. 13
Meat should be removed from paper as soon as it comes from market, otherwise paper absorbs some of the juices. 14
Meat should be kept in a cool place. In winter, beef may be bought in large quantities and cut as needed. If one chooses, a loin or rump may be bought and kept by the butcher, who sends cuts as ordered. 15
Always wipe beef, before cooking, with a cheese-cloth wrung out of cold water, but never allow it to stand in a pan of cold water, as juices will be drawn out. 16
DIVISION AND WAYS OF COOKING A SIDE OF BEEF
HIND-QUARTER
DIVISIONS WAYS OF COOKING
Flank (thick and boneless) Stuffed, rolled and braised, or corned and boiled
Round Aitchbone Cheap roast, beef stew, or braised
Top Steaks, best cuts for beef tea
Lower Part Hamburg steaks, curry of beef, and cecils
Vein Steaks
Rump Back Choicest large roasts and cross-cut steaks
Middle Roasts
Face Inferior roasts and stews
Loin Tip Extra fine roasts
Middle Sirloin and porterhouse steaks
First Cut Steaks and roast
The Tenderloin Sold as a Fillet or cut in Steaks Larded and roasted, or broiled
Hindi-shin Cheap stew or soup stock
17
FORE-QUARTER
DIVISIONS WAYS OF COOKING
Five Prime Ribs Good roast
Five Chuck Ribs Small steaks and stews
Neck Hamburg steaks
Sticking-piece Mincemeat
Rattle Rand Thick End Corned for boiling
Second Cut
Thin End
Brisket Navel End Finest pieces for corning
Butt End or
Fancy Brisket
Fore-shin Soup stock and stews
18
Other Parts of Beef Creature used for Food
Brains Stewed, scalloped dishes, or croquettes
Tongue Boiled or braised, fresh or corned
Heart Stuffed and braised
Liver Broiled or fried
Kidneys Stewed or sautéd
Tail Soup
Suet (kidney suet is the best)
Tripe Lyonnaise, broiled, or fried in batter
19
The Effect of Different Temperatures on the Cooking of Meat
By putting meat in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually, a large amount of juice is extracted and meat is tasteless; and by long cooking the connective tissues are softened and dissolved, which gives to the stock when cold a jelly-like consistency. This principle applies to soup-making. 20
By putting meat in boiling water, allowing the water to boil for a few minutes, then lowering the temperature, juices in the outer surface are quickly coagulated, and the inner juices are prevented from escaping. This principle applies where nutriment and flavor is desired in meat. Examples: boiled mutton, fowl. 21
By putting in cold water, bringing quickly to the boiling-point, then lowering the temperature and cooking slowly until meat is tender, some of the goodness will be in the stock, but a large portion left in the meat. Examples: fowl, when cooked to use for made-over dishes, Scotch Broth. 22
TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF MEATS
Articles Refuse Proteid Fat Mineral matter Water
BEEF
Fore-quarter 19.8 14.1 16.1 .7 49.3
Hind-quarter 16.3 15.3 15.6 .8 52.
Round 8.5 18.7 8.8 1. 63.
Rump 18.5 14.4 19. .8 47.3
Loin 12.6 15.9 17.3 .9 53.3
Ribs 20.2 13.6 20.6 .7 44.9
Chuck ribs 13.3 15. 20.8 .8 50.1
Tongue 15.1 14.8 15.3 .9 53.9
Heart 16. 20.4 1. 62.6
Carbohydrates
Kidney .4 16.9 4.8 1.2 76.7
Liver 1.8 21.6 5.4 1.4 69.8
MUTTON
Hind-quarter 16.7 13.5 23.5 .7 45.6
Fore-quarter 21.1 11.9 25.7 .7 40.6
Leg 17.4 15.1 14.5 .8 52.2
Loin 14.2 12.8 31.9 .6
VEAL
Fore-quarter 24.5 14.6 6. .7 54.2
Hind-quarter 20.7 15.7 6.6 .8 56.2
Leg 10.5 18.5 5. 1. 65.
Sweetbreads 15.4 12.1 1.6 70.9
PORK
Loin of pork 16. 13.5 27.5 .7 42.3
Ham, smoked 12.7 14.1 33.2 4.1 35.9
Salt pork 8.1 9.6 60.2 4.3 17.8
Bacon 8.1 9.6 60.2 4.3 17.8
POULTRY
Chicken 34.8 14.8 1.1 .8 48.5
Fowl 30. 13.4 10.2 .8 45.6
Turkey 22.7 15.7 18.4 .8 42.4
Goose 22.2 10.3 33.8 .6 33.1
W.O. Atwaler, Ph. D.
23
Broiled Beefsteak
The best cuts of beef for broiling are porterhouse, sirloin, cross-cut of rump steaks, and second and third cuts from top of round. Porterhouse and sirloin cuts are the most expensive, on account of the great loss in bone and fat, although price per pound is about the same as for cross-cut of rump. Round steak is very juicy, but, having coarser fibre, is not as tender. Steaks should be cut at least an inch thick, and from that to two and one-half inches. The flank end of sirloin steak should be removed before cooking. It may be put in soup kettle, or lean part may be chopped and utilized for meat cakes, fat tried out and clarified for shortening.
24
To Broil Steak. Wipe with a cloth wrung out of cold water, and trim off superfluous fat. With some of the fat grease a wire broiler, place meat in broiler, (having fat edge next to handle), and broil over a clear fire, turning every ten seconds for the first minute, that surface may be well seared, thus preventing escape of juices. After the first minute, turn occasionally until well cooked on both sides. Steak cut one and one-half inches thick will take ten minutes, if liked rare; twelve to fifteen minutes, if well done. Remove to hot platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. 25
Beefsteak with Maître d’Hôtel Butter
Serve Broiled Steak with Maître d’Hôtel Butter.
26
Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce
Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Mushroom Sauce.
27
Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce
Serve broiled Porterhouse Steak with Tomato and Mushroom Sauce.
28
Porterhouse Steak, Bordelaise Sauce
Serve broiled porterhouse steak with
29
Bordelaise Sauce. Cook one shallot, finely chopped, with one-forth cup claret until claret is reduced to two tablespoons, and strain. Melt two tablespoons butter, add one slice onion, two slices carrot, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, eight peppercorns, and one clove, and cools until brown. Add three and one-half tablespoons flour, and when well browned add gradually one cup Brown Stock. Strain, let simmer eight minutes, add claret and one tablespoon butter. Season with salt and pepper. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone and cut in one-third inch slices; then poach in boiling water. Arrange on and around steak, and pour around sauce. 30
Beefsteak à la Henriette
1/2 cup butter 1/4 teaspoon salt
Yolks 3 eggs 2 tablespoons tomato purée
1 tablespoon cold water 1 tablespoon Worcestershire Sauce
1/2 tablespoon lemon juice 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Few grains cayenne
Wash butter, and divide in three pieces. Put one piece in saucepan with yolks of eggs slightly beaten and mixed with water and lemon juice. Proceed same as in making Hollandaise Sauce I ; then add tomato, parsley, and seasonings. Pour one-half sauce on a serving dish, lay a broiled porterhouse steak on sauce, and cover steak with remaining sauce. Garnish with parsley.
31
Beefsteak à la Victor Hugo
Wipe a porterhouse steak, broil, and serve with
32
Victor Hugo Sauce. Cook one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one tablespoon tarragon vinegar five minutes. Wash one-third cup butter, and divide in thirds. Add one piece butter to mixture, with yolks two eggs, one teaspoon lemon juice, and one teaspoon meat extract. Cook over hot water, stirring constantly; as soon as butter is melted, add second piece, and then third piece. When mixture thickens, add one-half tablespoon grated horseradish. 33
Steak à la Chiron
Spread broiled rump steak with Hollandaise Sauce I to which is added a few drops onion juice and one-half tablespoon finely chopped parsley.
34
Beefsteak à la Mirabeau
Garnish a broiled porterhouse or cross-cut of rump steak with anchovies, and stoned olives stuffed with green butter and chopped parsley. Arrange around steak stuffed tomatoes, and fried potato balls served in shells made from noodle mixture. Pour around the following sauce: Melt two tablespoons butter, add two and one-half tablespoons browned flour, then add one cup Chicken Stock. Season with one tablespoon tomato catsup and salt and pepper.
35
Noodle Shells. Make noodle mixture , roll as thinly as possible, cut in pieces, and shape over buttered inverted scallop shells. Put in dripping-pan and bake in a slow oven. As mixture bakes it curls from edges, when cases should be slipped from shells and pressed firmly in insides of shells to finish cooking and leave an impression of shells. Potato balls served in these shells make an attractive garnish for broiled fish and meats. 36
Beefsteak with Oyster Blanket
Wipe a sirloin steak, cut one and one-half inches thick, broil five minutes, and remove to platter. Spread with butter and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Clean one pint oysters, cover steak with same, sprinkle oysters with salt and pepper and dot over with butter. Place on grate in hot oven, and cook until oysters are plump.
37
Planked Beefsteak
Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and pan broil seven minutes a porterhouse or cross-cut of the rump steak cut one and three-fourths inches thick. Butter a plank and arrange a border of Duchess Potatoes, using three times the recipe, close to edge, using a pastry bag and rose tube. Remove steak to plank, put in a
hot oven, and bake until steak is cooked and potatoes are browned. Spread steak with butter, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and finely chopped parsley. Garnish top of steak with sautéd mushroom caps, and put around steak at equal distances halves of small tomatoes sautéd in butter, and on top of each tomato a circular slice of cucumber.
38
Broiled Fillets of Beef
Slices cut from the tenderloin are called sliced fillets of beef. Wipe sliced fillets, place in greased broiler, and broil four or five minutes over a clear fire. These may be served with Ma&lcirc;tre d’Hôtel Butter or Mushroom Sauce.
39
Cutlets of Tenderloin with Chestnut Purée
Shape slices of tenderloin, one inch thick, in circular pieces. Broil five minutes. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Arrange on platter around a mound of Chestnut Purée.
40
Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Figaro
Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle on platter with cock’s-comb shaped croûtons between, and pour sauce in the centre. Serve as a luncheon dish with Brussels Sprouts or String Beans.
41
Sautéd Mignon Fillets of Beef with Sauce Trianon
Wipe and sauté small fillets in hot omelet pan. Arrange in a circle around a mound of fried potato balls sprinkled with parsley. Put Sauce Trianon on each fillet.
42
Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle
Cut beef tenderloin in slices one inch thick, and trim into circular shapes. Season with salt and pepper, and broil six minutes in hot buttered frying-pan. Remove marrow from a marrow-bone, cut in one-third inch slices, poach in boiling water, and drain. Put a slice of marrow on each fillet. To liquor in pan add one tablespoon butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup Brown Stock. Season with salt, pepper, and Madeira wine. Pour sauce around meat.
43
Sautéd Fillets of Beef, Cherry Sauce
Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle. Arrange on serving dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, spread with butter, and pour over.
44
Cherry Sauce. Soak one-fourth cup glacéd cherries fifteen minutes in boiling water. Drain, cut in halves, cover with Sherry wine, and let stand three hours. 45
Sautéd Fillets of Beef with Stuffed Mushroom Caps
Prepare and cook six fillets same as Sautéd Fillets of Beef à la Moelle omitting the marrow. Put a sautéd stuffed mushroom cap on each, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned. Remove to serving dish, pour around Espagnole Sauce, and garnish caps with strips of red and green pepper cut in fancy shapes.
46
Stuffing for Mushroom Caps. Clean and finely chop six mushroom caps; add one tablespoon each of parsley and onion finely chopped, and one tablespoon butter. Moisten with Espagnole Sauce (See p. 268). 47
Châteaubriand of Beef
Trim off fat and skin from three pounds of beef cut from centre of fillet and flatten with a broad-bladed cleaver. Sprinkle with salt, brush over with olive oil, and broil over a clear fire twenty minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with red pepper cut in fancy shapes and parsley. Serve with
48
Espagnole Sauce. To one and one-half cups rich brown sauce add two-thirds teaspoon meat extract, one tablespoon lemon juice, and one and one-half tablespoons finely chopped parsley. Just before serving add one tablespoon butter and salt and pepper to taste. 49
Broiled Meat Cakes
Chop finely lean raw beef, season with salt and pepper, shape in small flat cakes, and broil in a greased broiler or frying-pan. Spread with butter, or serve with Ma&lcirc;tre d’Hôtel Butter. In forming the cakes, handle as little as possible; for if pressed too compactly, cakes will be found solid.
50
Hamburg Steaks
Chop finely one pound lean raw beef; season highly with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice or one-half shallot finely chopped. Shape, cook, and serve as Meat Cakes. A few gratings of nutmeg and one egg slightly beaten may be added.
51
Cannelon of Beef
2 lbs. lean beef, cut from round 1/2 teaspoon onion juice
Grated rind 1/2 lemon 2 tablespoons melted butter
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley Few gratings nutmeg
1 teaspoon salt
1 egg 1/4 teaspoon pepper
Chop meat finely, and add remaining ingredients in order given. Shape in a roll six inches long, place on rack in dripping-pan, and arrange over top slices fat salt-pork, and bake thirty minutes. Baste every five minutes with one-fourth cup butter melted in one cup boiling water. Serve with Brown Mushroom Sauce I.
52
Roast Beef
The best cuts of beef for roasting are: tip or middle of sirloin, back of rump, or first three ribs. Tip of sirloin roast is desirable for a small family. Back of rump makes a superior roast for a large family, and is more economical than sirloin. It is especially desirable where a large quantity of dish gravy is liked, for in carving the meat juices follow the knife. Rib roasts contain more fat than either of the others, and are somewhat cheaper. 53
To Roast Beef. Wipe, put on a rack in dripping-pan, skin side down, rub over with salt, and dredge meat and pan with flour. Place in hot oven, that the surface may be quickly seared, thus preventing escape of inner juices. After flour in pan is browned, reduce heat, and baste with fat which has tried out; if meat is quite lean, it may be necessary to put trimmings of fat in pan. Baste every ten minutes; if this rule is followed, meat will be found more juicy. When meat is about half done, turn it over and dredge with flour, that skin side may be uppermost for final browning. For roasting, consult Time Table for Baking Meats, page 30. 54
If there is danger of flour burning in pan, add a small quantity of water; this, however, is not desirable, and seldom need be done if size of pan is adapted to size of roast. Beef to be well roasted should be started in hot oven and heat decreased, so that when carved the slices will be red throughout, with a crisp layer of golden brown fat on the top. Beef roasted when temperature is so high that surface is hardened before heat can penetrate to the centre is most unsatisfactory. 55
Sirloin or rib roasts may have the bones removed, and be rolled, skewered, and tied in shape. Chicago Butt is cut from the most tender part of back of rump. They are shipped from Chicago, our greatest beef centre, and if fresh and from a heavy creature, make excellent roasts at a small price. 56
Roast Beef Gravy. Remove some of the fat from pan, leaving four tablespoons. Place on front of range, add four tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned. The flour, dredged and browned in pan, should give additional color to gravy. Add gradually one and one-half cups boiling water, cook five minutes, season with salt and pepper, and strain. If flour should burn in pan, gravy will be full of black particles. 57
To Carve a Roast of Beef. Have roast placed on platter skin side up; with a pointed, thin-bladed, sharp knife cut a sirloin or rib roast in thin slices at right angles to the ribs, and cut slices from ribs. If there is tenderloin, remove it from under the bone, and cut in thin slices across grain of meat. Carve back of rump in thin slices with the grain of meat; by so doing, some of the least tender muscle will be served with that which is tender. By cutting across grain of meat, the tenderest portion is sliced by itself, as is the less tender portion. 58
Yorkshire Pudding
1 cup milk 2 eggs
1 cup flour 1/4 teaspoon salt
Miss C. J. Wills
Mix salt and flour, and add milk gradually to form a smooth paste; then add eggs beaten until very light. Cover bottom of hot pan with some of beef fat tried out from roast, pour mixture in pan one-half inch deep. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting after well risen, with some of the fat from pan in which meat is roasting. Cut in squares for serving. Bake, if preferred, in greased, hissing hot iron gem pans.
59
Larded Fillet of Beef
The tenderloin of beef which lies under the loin and rump is called fillet of beef. The fillet under the loin is known as the long fillet, and when removed no porterhouse steaks can be cut; therefore it commands a higher price than the short fillet lying under rump. Two short fillets are often skewered together, and served in place of a long fillet.
60
Wipe, remove fat, veins, and any tendonous portions; skewer in shape, and lard upper side with grain of meat, following directions for larding on page 23. Place on a rack in small pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and put in bottom of pan small pieces of pork. Bake twenty to thirty minutes in hot oven, basting three times. Take out skewer, remove meat to hot platter, and garnish with watercress. Serve with Mushroom, Figaro, or Horse-radish Sauce I. 61
Fillet of Beef with Vegetables
Wipe a three-pound fillet, trim, and remove fat. Put one-half pound butter in hot frying-pan and when melted add fillet, and turn frequently until the entire surface is seared and well browned; then turn occasionally until done, the time
required being about thirty minutes. Remove to serving dish and garnish with one cup each cooked peas and carrots cut in fancy shapes, both well seasoned, one-half cup raisins seeded and cooked in boiling water until soft, and the caps from one-half pound fresh mushrooms sautéd in butter five minutes. Serve with
62
Brown Mushroom Sauce. Pour off one-fourth cup fat from frying-pan, add five tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add one cup Brown Soup Stock, one-third cup mushroom liquor, and the caps from one-half pound mushrooms cut in slices and sautéd in butter three minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and just before serving add gradually, while stirring constantly, the butter remaining in frying-pan. 63
To obtain mushroom liquor, scrape stems of mushrooms, break in pieces, cover with cold water, and cook slowly until liquid is reduced to one-third cup. 64
Braised Beef
3 lbs. beef from lower part of round or face of rump
Carrot 1/4 cup each, cut in dice
Turnip
Onion
2 thin slices fat salt pork Celery
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Salt and pepper
Try out pork and remove scraps. Wipe meat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown entire surface in pork fat. When turning meat, avoid piercing with fork or skewer, which allows the inner juices to escape. Place on trivet in deep granite pan or in earthen pudding-dish, and surround with vegetables, peppercorns, and three cups boiling water; cover closely, and bake four hours in very slow oven, basting every half-hour, and turning after second hour. Throughout the cooking, the liquid should be kept below the boiling-point. Serve with Horseradish Sauce, or with sauce made from liquor in pan.
65
Beef à la Mode
Insert twelve large lardoons in a four-pound piece of beef cut from the round. Make incisions for lardoons by running through the meat a large skewer. Season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and brown the entire surface in pork fat. Put on a trivet in kettle, surround with one-third cup each carrot, turnip, celery, and onion cut in dice, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, and water to half cover meat. Cover closely, and cook slowly four hours, keeping liquor below the boiling-point. Remove to hot platter. Strain liquor, thicken and season to serve as a gravy. When beef is similarly prepared (with exception of lardoons and vegetables), and cooked in smaller amount of water, it is called Smothered Beef, or Pot Roast. A bean-pot (covered with a piece of buttered paper, tied firmly down) is the best utensil to use for a Pot Roast.
66
Pressed Beef Flank
Wipe, remove superfluous fat, and roll a flank of beef. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling water, and add one tablespoon salt, one-half teaspoon peppercorns, a bit of bay leaf, and a bone or two which may be at hand. Cook slowly until meat is in shreds; there should be but little liquor in kettle when meat is done. Arrange meat in a deep pan, pour over liquor, cover, and press with a heavy weight. Serve cold, thinly sliced.
67
Beef Stew with Dumplings
Aitchbone, weighing 5 lbs 1/2 small onion, cut in thin slices
4 cups potatoes, cut in 1/4 inch slices 1/4 cup flour
Turnip 2/3 cup each, cut in half-inch cubes Salt
Carrot Pepper
Wipe meat, remove from bone, cut in one and one-half inch cubes, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cut some of the fat in small pieces and try out in frying-pan. Add meat and stir constantly, that the surface may be quickly seared; when well browned, put in kettle, and rinse frying-pan with boiling water, that none of the goodness may be lost. Add to meat remaining fat, and bone sawed in \??\es; cover with boiling water and boil five minutes, then cook at a lower temperature until meat is tender (time required being about three hours). Add carrot, turnip, and onion, with salt and pepper the last hour of cooking. Parboil potatoes five minutes, and add to stew fifteen minutes before taking from fire. Remove bones, large pieces of fat, and then skim. Thicken with one-fourth cup flour, diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Pour in deep hot platter, and surround with dumplings. Remnants of roast beef are usually made into a beef stew; the meat having been once cooked, there is no necessity of browning it. If gravy is left, it should be added to the stew.
68
Dumplings
2 cups flour 1/2 teaspoon salt
4 teaspoons baking powder 2 teaspoons butter
3/4 cup milk
Mix and sift dry ingredients. Work in butter with tips of fingers, and add milk gradually, using a knife for mixing. Toss on a floured board, pat, and roll out to one-half inch in thickness. Shape with biscuit-cutter, first dipped in flour. Place closely together in a buttered steamer, put over kettle of boiling water, cover closely, and steam twelve minutes. A perforated tin pie-plate may be used in place of steamer. A little more milk may be used in the mixture, when it may be taken up by spoonfuls, dropped and cooked on top of stew. In this case some of the liquid must be removed, that dumplings may rest on meat and potato, and not settle into liquid.
69
Corned Beef
Corned beef has but little nutritive value. It is used to give variety to our diet in summer, when fresh meats prove too stimulating. It is eaten by the workingman to give bulk to his food. The best pieces of corned beef are the rattle rand and fancy brisket. The fancy brisket commands a higher price and may be easily told from the rattle rand by the selvage on lower side and the absence of bones. The upper end of brisket (butt end) is thick and composed mostly of lean meat, the middle cut has more fat but is not well mixed, while the lower (navel end) has a large quantity of fat. The rattle rand contains a thick lean end; the second cut contains three distinct layers of meat and fat, and is considered the best cut by those who prefer meat well streaked with fat. The rattle rand has a thin end, which contains but one layer of lean meat and much fat, consequently is not a desirable piece.
70
To Boil Corned Beef. Wipe the meat and tie securely in shape, if this has not been already done at market. Put in kettle, cover with cold water, and bring slowly to boiling-point. Boil five minutes, remove scum, and cook at a lower temperature until tender. Cool slightly in water in which it was cooked, remove to a dish, cover, and place on cover a weight, that meat may be well pressed. The lean meat and fat may be separated and put in alternate layers in a bread pan, then covered and pressed. 71
Boiled Dinner
A boiled dinner consists of warm unpressed corned beef, served with cabbage, beets, turnips, carrots, and potatoes. After removing meat from water, skim off fat and cook vegetables (with exception of beets, which require a long time for cooking) in this water. Carrots require a longer time for cooking than cabbage or turnips. Carrots and turnips, if small, may be cooked whole; if large, cut in pieces. Cabbage and beets are served in separate dishes, other vegetables on same dish with meat.
72
Boiled Tongue
A boiled corned tongue is cooked the same as Boiled Corned Beef. If very salt, it should be soaked in cold water several hours, or over night, before cooking. Take from water when slightly cooled and remove skin.
73
Braised Tongue
A fresh tongue is necessary for braising. Put tongue in kettle, cover with boiling water, and cook slowly two hours. Take tongue from water and remove skin and roots. Place in deep pan and surround with one-third cup each carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice, and one sprig parsley; then pour over four cups sauce. Cover closely, and bake two hours, turning after the first hour. Serve on platter and strain around the sauce.
74
Sauce for Tongue. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add one-fourth cup flour and stir together until well browned. Add gradually four cups of water in which tongue was cooked. Season with salt and pepper and add one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce. One and one-half cups stewed and strained tomatoes may be used in place of some of the water. 75
Broiled Liver
Cover with boiling water slices of liver cut one-half inch thick, let stand five minutes to draw out the blood; drain, wipe, and remove the thin outside skin and veins. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, place in a greased wire broiler and broil five minutes, turning often. Remove to a hot platter, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper.
76
Liver and Bacon
Prepare as for Broiled Liver, cut in pieces for serving, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in bacon fat. Serve with bacon.
77
Bacon I
Place strips of thinly cut bacon on board, and with a broad-bladed knife make strips as thin as possible. Put in hot frying-pan and cook until bacon is crisp and brown, occasionally pouring off fat from pan, turning frequently. Drain on brown paper.
78
Bacon II
Place thin slices of bacon (from which the rind has been removed) closely together in a fine wire broiler; place broiler over dripping-pan and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and brown, turning once. Drain on brown paper. Fat which has dripped into the pan should be poured out and used for frying liver, eggs, potatoes, etc.
79
Braised Liver
Skewer, tie in shape, and lard upper side of calf’s liver. Place in deep pan, with trimmings from lardoons; surround with one-fourth cup each, carrot, onion, and celery, cut in dice; one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, two cloves, bit of bay leaf, and two cups Brown Stock or water. Cover closely and bake slowly two hours, uncovering the last twenty minutes. Remove from pan, strain liquor, and use liquor for the making of a brown sauce with one and one-half tablespoons butter and two tablespoons flour. Pour sauce around liver for serving.
80
Calf’s Liver, Stuffed and Larded
Make a deep cut nearly the entire length of liver, beginning at thick end, thus making a pouch for stuffing. Fill pouch. Skewer liver and lard upper side. Put liver in baking pan, pour around two cups Brown Sauce, made of one tablespoon each butter and flour, and two cups Brown Stock, salt, and pepper. Bake one and one-fourth hours, basting every twelve minutes with sauce in pan. Remove to serving dish, strain sauce around liver, and garnish with Glazed or French Fried Onions .
81
Stuffing. Mix one-half pound chopped cooked cold ham, one-half cup stale bread crumbs, one-half small onion finely chopped, and one tablespoon finely chopped parsley. Moisten with Brown Sauce; then add one beaten egg, and season with salt and pepper. 82
Broiled Tripe
Fresh honeycomb tripe is best for broiling. Wipe tripe as dry as possible, dip in fine cracker dust and olive oil or melted butter, draining off all fat that is possible, and again dip in cracker dust. Place in a greased broiler and broil five minutes, cooking smooth side of tripe the first three minutes. Place on a hot platter, honeycomb side up, spread with butter, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Broiled tripe is at its best when cooked over a charcoal fire.
83
Tripe in Batter
Wipe tripe and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in batter, fry in a small quantity of hot fat, and drain.
84
Tripe Batter. Mix one cup flour with one-fourth teaspoon salt; add gradually one-half cup cold water, and when perfectly smooth add one egg well beaten, one-half tablespoon vinegar, and one teaspoon olive oil or melted butter. 85
Tripe Fried in Batter
Cut pickled honeycomb tripe in pieces for serving; wash, cover with boiling water, and simmer gently twenty minutes. Drain, and again cover, using equal parts cold water and milk. Heat to boiling-point, again drain, wipe as dry as possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with slices of lemon and Chili Sauce.
86
Batter. Mix and sift one cup flour, one and one-half teaspoons baking powder, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains pepper. Add one-third cup milk and one egg well beaten. 87
Lyonnaise Tripe
Cut honeycomb tripe in pieces two inches long by one-half inch wide, having three cupfuls. Put in a pan and place in oven that water may be drawn out. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion in two tablespoons butter until slightly browned, add tripe drained from water, and cook five minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and finely chopped parsley.
88
Tripe à la Creole
Cut, bake, and drain tripe as for Lyonnaise Tripe. Cook same quantity of butter and onion, add one-eighth green pepper finely chopped, one tablespoon flour, one-half cup stock, one-fourth cup drained tomatoes, and one fresh mushroom cut in slices; then add tripe and cook five minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
89
Tripe à la Provençale
Add to Lyonnaise Tripe one tablespoon white wine. Cook until quite dry, add one-third cup Tomato Sauce, cook two minutes, season with salt and pepper, and serve.
90
Calf’s Head à la Terrapin
Wash and clean a calf’s head, and cook until tender in boiling water to cover. Cool, and cut meat from cheek in small cubes. To two cups meat dice add one cup sauce made of two tablespoons butter, two tablespoons flour, and one cup White Stock, seasoned with one-half teaspoon salt, one-eighth teaspoon pepper, and a few grains cayenne. Add one-half cup cream and yolks of two eggs slightly beaten; cook two minutes and add two tablespoons Madeira wine.
91
Calves’ Tongues
Cook tongues until tender in boiling water to cover, with six slices carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with six cloves, one-half teaspoon peppercorns and one-half tablespoon salt; take from water and remove skin and roots. Split and pour over equal parts brown stock and tomatoes boiled until thick.
92
Calves’ Tongues, Sauce Piquante
Cook four tongues, until tender, in boiling water, to cover, with six slices carrot, two stalks celery, one onion stuck with eight cloves, one teaspoon peppercorns, and one-half tablespoon salt. Take tongues from water, and remove skin and roots. Cut in halves lengthwise and reheat in
93
Sauce Piquante. Brown one-fourth cup butter, add six tablespoons flour, and stir until well browned; then add two cups Brown Stock and cook three minutes. Season with two-thirds teaspoon salt, one-half teaspoon paprika, few grains of cayenne, one tablespoon vinegar, one-half tablespoon capers, and one cucumber pickle thinly sliced. Served garnished with cucumber pickles, and cold cooked beets cut in fancy shapes. 94
Calf’s Heart
Wash a calf’s heart, remove veins, arteries, and clotted blood. Stuff (using half quantity of Fish Stuffing I on page 164, seasoned highly with sage) and sew. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll in flour, and brown in hot fat. Place in small, deep baking-pan, half cover it with boiling water, cover closely, and bake slowly two hours, basting every fifteen minutes. It may be necessary to add more water. Remove heart from pan, and thicken the liquor with flour diluted
with a small quantity of cold water. Season with salt and pepper, and pour around the heart before serving.
95
Stuffed Hearts with Vegetables
Clean and wash calves’ hearts, stuff, skewer into shape, lard, season with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in pork fat, adding to fat one stalk celery, one tablespoon chopped onion, two sprigs parsley, four slices carrot cut in pieces, half the quantity of turnip, a bit of bay leaf, two cloves, and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns. Turn hearts occasionally until well browned, then add one and one-half cups Brown Stock, cover, and cook slowly one and one-half hours. Serve with cooked carrots and turnips cut in strips or fancy shapes.
96
Braised Ox Joints
Cut ox tail at joints, parboil five minutes, wash thoroughly, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter (to which has been added a sliced onion) until well browned. Add one-fourth cup flour, two cups each brown stock, water, and canned tomatoes, one teaspoon salt, and one-fourth teaspoon pepper. Turn into an earthen pudding-dish, cover, and cook slowly three and one-half hours. Remove ox tail, strain sauce, and return ox tail and sauce to oven to finish cooking. Add two-thirds cup each carrot and turnip (shaped with a vegetable cutter in pieces one-inch long, and about as large around as macaroni) parboiled in boiled salted water five minutes. As soon as vegetables are soft, add Sherry wine to taste, and more salt and pepper, if needed. The wine may be omitted.
97
WAYS OF WARMING OVER BEEF
Roast Beef with Gravy
Cut cold roast beef in thin slices, place on a warm platter, and pour over some of the gravy reheated to the boilingpoint. If meat is allowed to stand in gravy on the range, it becomes hard and tough.
98
Roast Beef, Mexican Sauce
Reheat cold roast beef cut in thin slices, in
99
Mexican Sauce. Cook one onion, finely chopped, in two tablespoons butter five minutes. Add one red pepper, one green pepper, and one clove of garlic, each finely chopped, and two tomatoes peeled and cut in pieces. Cook fifteen minutes, add one teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce, one-fourth teaspoon celery salt, and salt to taste. 100
Cottage Pie
Cover bottom of a small greased baking-dish with hot mashed potato, add a thick layer of roast beef, chopped or cut in small pieces (seasoned with salt, pepper, and a few drops onion juice) and moistened with some of the gravy; cover with a thin layer of mashed potato, and bake in a hot oven long enough to heat through.
101
Beefsteak Pie
Cut remnants of cold broiled steak or roast beef in one-inch cubes. Cover with boiling water, add one-half onion, and cook slowly one hour. Remove onion, thicken gravy with flour diluted with cold water, and season with salt and pepper. Add potatoes cut in one-fourth inch slices, which have been parboiled eight minutes in boiling salted water. Put in a buttered pudding-dish, cool,
cover with bakingpowder biscuit mixture or pie crust. Bake in a hot oven. If covered with pie crust, make several incisions in crust that gases may escape.
102
Cecils with Tomato Sauce
1 cup cold roast beef or rare steak finely chopped Onion juice
Worcestershire Sauce
Salt 2 tablespoons bread crumbs
Pepper 1 tablespoon melted butter
Yolk 1 egg slightly beaten
Season beef with salt, pepper, onion juice, and Worcestershire Sauce; add remaining ingredients, shape after the form of small croquettes, pointed at ends. Roll in flour, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with Tomato Sauce.
103
Corned Beef Hash
Remove skin and gristle from cooked corned beef, then chop the meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To chopped meat add an equal quantity of cold boiled chopped potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, put into a hot buttered frying-pan, moisten with milk or cream, stir until well mixed, spread evenly, then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown underneath. Turn, and fold on a hot platter. Garnish with sprig of parsley in the middle.
104
Corned Beef Hash with Beets
When preparing Corned Beef hash, add one-half as much finely chopped cooked beets as potatoes. Cold roast beef or one-half roast beef and one-half corned beef may be used.
105
Dried Beef with Cream
1/4 lb. smoked dried beef, thinly sliced 1 cup scalded cream
11/2 tablespoons flour
Remove skin and separate meat in pieces, cover with hot water, let stand ten minutes, and drain. Dilute flour with enough cold water to pour easily, making a smooth paste; add to cream, and cook in double boiler ten minutes. Add beef, and reheat. One cup White Sauce I may be used in place of cream, omitting the salt.