Rojak Mango, papaya, and pineapple salad

Serves 4–6
½ small cucumber
¼ fresh pineapple
1 firm unripe mango
1 firm unripe papaya
1 crisp, tart apple such as Granny Smith
2 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
½ bunch of fresh mint, leaves torn
1 cup roasted skinless peanuts,
coarsely crushed
For the dressing
2 tbsp shrimp paste
3 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 tbsp mashed tamarind pulp (see p30)
juice of 1 lime
5 tbsp boiling water
2 tbsp Asian fish sauce
3 tbsp sugar
1First wrap the shrimp paste for the dressing in a small piece of aluminum foil.
Bake in a preheated 350°F (180°C) oven for 10 minutes until it becomes
nuttier and drier, and aromatic rather than pungent.
2To make the dressing, grind the chilies and ginger using a pestle and mortar.
Mix with the roasted shrimp paste and mash into a pulp. Add the mashed
tamarind, lime juice, water, fish sauce, and sugar.
3To make the salad, cut each fruit differently to ensure different textures and
uneven pieces. Roll-cut the cucumber by cutting a chunk on a diagonal
about 1½in (3.5cm) long. Roll the cucumber 90 degrees, then cut another
diagonal chunk. Continue cutting and rolling in this fashion, so that you have
irregular diagonal chunks. Peel the pineapple, mango, and papaya. Dice the
pineapple, cut wedges of mango and apple, and shred the papaya into ribbons
using a vegetable peeler. Put in a large serving bowl, and add the scallions and
mint. Toss gently to mix. Add half the peanuts and mix again.
4Pour the dressing over the fruit and toss well. Serve in individual bowls,
garnished with the remaining peanuts and mint leaves.

Cha gio Crispy chicken spring rolls

Serves 4
4 tbsp Asian fish sauce
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
2 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 tsp sugar
2 cups vegetable oil for cooking
8oz (225g) oyster mushrooms,
coarsely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 small onions, finely chopped
8oz (225g) minced chicken breast
4 scallions (green onions), finely chopped
2 eggs, beaten
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 tsp five-spice powder
½ tsp salt
30 fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped,
plus 20 extra leaves, to serve
16 rice paper wrappers
2 tbsp freshly squeezed lime juice
1 tsp sugar
20 fresh mint leaves, to serve
freshly ground black pepper
1Make a dipping sauce by mixing together half the fish sauce, the lime juice,
half the chilies, and the sugar in a small bowl. Add 3–4 tbsp warm water and
stir. Set aside. Heat a little oil in a heavy pan over high heat. Add the mushrooms
and fry for 3–4 minutes until browned. Remove from the pan. Heat a little extra
oil in the same pan and add the garlic. Reduce the heat and cook for another
2 minutes, then add the onions and cook for 8–10 minutes until softened.
Chop the mushrooms into smaller pieces and return to the pan. Season well.
2Mix the remaining fish sauce and chilies, chicken, scallions, eggs, ginger,
five-spice powder, salt, and chopped cilantro in a bowl. Add the mushroom
mixture. Take a small piece of mixture and fry in the pan. Taste and adjust the
seasoning—it should be well spiced with an underlying sweetness.
3Soak the rice paper wrappers 4 at a time in warm water for about a minute.
Lay on a clean damp cloth. Place a tbsp of the filling on each one, about
1½in (3.5cm) from the edge nearest to you. Fold in the two sides on each
wrapper and roll tightly away from you, like a cigar. Heat a wok or heavy pan over
medium heat for a couple of minutes. Add the oil and heat. To test, carefully drop
in a spring roll—it should sizzle and bubble. Reduce the heat by a third and fry
the spring rolls in small batches for about 5 minutes. Drain and serve hot with the
dipping sauce and whole cilantro and mint leaves in the center of the table.

VEAL CUTLETS WITH MADEIRA SAUCE

VEAL CUTLETS WITH MADEIRA SAUCE
are garnished with potatoes and mushrooms, and the sauce is made of demi− glaze and madeira, worked up
with butter, pepper, salt and chopped parsley.

GRENADINS OF VEAL

GRENADINS OF VEAL
Cut your veal into fairly thick cutlets, lard them with fat bacon, and braise them in the oven, with salt, pepper
and butter. Dish up, and rinse the pot with a little stock, and pour it on the meat ready to serve.

Cucur udang Singapore prawn fritters with sweet chili sauce

Makes 12 fritters
11⁄3 cups all-purpose flour
½ tsp baking powder
1⁄4 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp sea salt
1 bunch of fresh chives, finely chopped
1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili, seeded
and finely chopped
4 scallions (green onions), finely sliced
1½ cups fresh bean sprouts, rinsed
and drained well
2 cups vegetable oil for frying
24 fresh prawns, peeled and deveined
fresh cilantro to garnish
For the sweet chili sauce
3 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp sugar
2 tbsp white vinegar
juice of 1 lime
1To make the fritters, sift the flour, baking powder, turmeric, and salt into a
bowl. Whisk in 7oz (200ml) water to make a thick batter with the consistency
of heavy cream. Add the chives, chili, scallions, and bean sprouts. Mix together
well, and pour the batter into a large measuring cup or pitcher.
2Combine all the ingredients for the sweet chili sauce. Add ¼ cup of water,
stir, and set aside.
3Heat the oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat for deep-frying. Dip a
small ladle into the hot oil and hold it there to heat for 15 seconds. Remove
the ladle from the heat, letting any excess oil drip off. Half-fill the ladle with some
of the batter, then press 2 prawns into the batter. Very carefully immerse the
entire ladle with prawns into the hot oil (take extra care as the oil will splatter
because of the moisture in the batter). Deep-fry for 2–3 minutes. Using a spatula
or a small sharp knife, remove the fritter from the ladle, slip into the oil, and fry for
3 minutes longer or until golden brown. Drain on paper towels and keep warm.
Repeat the process until all of the prawns have been used.
4Serve hot and crispy with the sweet chili sauce for dipping. Fresh cilantro
can be added to either or both the sauce and the fritters as a garnish.

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL

FRICANDEAU OF VEAL
A fillet of veal, larded with fat bacon, of about three pounds. Braise it one and one−half hours on a moderate
fire. Dish with its own gravy. This eats well with spinach, endive, sorrel or carrots.

Chao wu xiang sen Sichuan-style vegetable stir-fry with Chinese chives

Serves 4–6
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 small Chinese cabbage or firm white
cabbage, cut into equal-sized chunks
about 2in (5cm) square
3 heads of baby bok choy, cut into equalsized
chunks about 2in (5cm) square
10 purple sprouting broccoli stalks, cut
into 2in (5cm) lengths
10 fresh asparagus spears, cut into
2in (5cm) lengths
2 tbsp soy sauce
6 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
½ cup fresh bean sprouts
20 Chinese chives, snipped into
3 equal lengths
handful of fresh cilantro leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the paste
grated zest of 2 limes
juice of 1 lime
2in (5cm) piece fresh ginger, grated
1 tsp five-spice powder
1 tbsp soy sauce
1To make the paste, mix all the ingredients together in a bowl. Heat the oil
in a wok over medium-high heat. Add the cabbage, bok choy, broccoli,
asparagus, and 1 tbsp of the soy sauce. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the paste, and
continue to stir-fry for another 2 minutes, or until the vegetables are just tender.
2Next add the remaining tablespoon of soy sauce with the scallions, bean
sprouts, and Chinese chives. Cook until wilted, then add the cilantro. Taste
and check the seasoning, and adjust as needed. Serve immediately, alongside
grilled fish or meat, and other Asian-style dishes.

VEAL WITH TOMATOES

VEAL WITH TOMATOES
Grill some slices of fat veal; cook some sliced tomatoes with butter, pepper and salt, on a flat dish in a pretty
quick oven. Garnish the veal with the tomatoes laid on top of each slice, and pour _maître− d'hôtel_ butter
over, made with butter, salt, chopped parsley, and lemon−juice.

BLANKENBERG BEEF

This is a winter dish; it is most sustaining, and once made, it can be kept hot for hours without spoiling. Make
a purée of lentils or peas, and season it with pepper and salt. Mince your beef with an equal quantity of peeled
chestnuts, add chopped parsley, a dust of nutmeg or a few cloves. If you have any cheap red wine pour it over
the mince till it is well moistened. If you have no red wine, use gravy. If you have no gravy, use milk. Let all
heat up in the oven for ten minutes, then sprinkle in some currants or sultanas. Take the dish you wish to serve
it in, put the stew in the middle, and place the purée round it. If the mince is moist it can be kept by the fire till
required, or the dish can be covered with another one and placed in a carrying−can, taken out to skating or
shooting parties.

BOEUF À LA FLAMANDE

BOEUF À LA FLAMANDE
For this national dish that part of the animal called the "spiering" is used, which is cut from near the neck.
What is called fresh silverside in England answers very well. Cut the beef into slices about half−an−inch thick
and divide the slices into four pieces. This you can do with a piece of four pounds. For a piece of four pounds,
cook first of all four large fried onions in fat. Put the beef in the hot fat when the onions are colored, and sauté
it; that is, keep moving the meat about gently. Take the meat out and place it on a dish. Add to the fat two
dessert− spoonsful of flour and let it cook gently for five minutes, adding a good pint of water. Pass the sauce
through a tammy, over the onions, and put the meat back in it, and it ought to cover them. Then add a dessert−
spoonful of good vinegar and a strong bunch of herbs. Stew for an hour, take off the fat and remove the bunch
of herbs. Heat up again and serve.

CARETAKER'S BEEF

CARETAKER'S BEEF
The real name of this dish is _Miroton de la Concierge_, and it is currently held that only concierges can do it
to perfection. Put a handful of minced onion to fry in butter; when it is nearly cooked, but not quite, add a
dessert−spoonful of flour, and stir it till all is well colored. Pour on it a little gravy, or meat−juice of some
kind, and let it simmer for ten minutes after it begins to steam again. Then take your beef, which must be cold,
and cut in small slices; throw them in and let it all cook for a quarter of an hour, only simmering, and
constantly stirring it, so that though it becomes considerably reduced it does not stick to the pan.

BEEF À LA MODE

BEEF À LA MODE
Take the raw beef, either rump−steak or fillet, and brown it in the pan in some butter. Then add a little boiling
water. Add then six or eight chopped shallots, the hearts of two celeries chopped, a few small and whole
carrots, pepper, salt, two cloves. Before serving, bind the sauce with a little flour and pour all over the meat.

BEEF À LA BOURGUIGNONNE

BEEF À LA BOURGUIGNONNE
Braise three pounds of beef upon twenty little onions, ten mushrooms, and two glasses of red wine, salt,
pepper, thyme and bay−leaf; cook for one and one−half hours with not too hot a fire. After that, place the beef
on an oval dish; keep it hot; stir two tablespoonfuls of demi−glaze into the vegetables and let it boil up. Cut
some slices of the beef, and strain the sauce over all.

OX−TONGUE À LA BOURGEOISE

OX−TONGUE À LA BOURGEOISE
Braise a tongue with two glasses of Madeira, one carrot, one onion, thyme, bay−leaf, for two hours. Take
seven tomatoes cut in pieces, four carrots cut in two and three in four, about one−half inch long, ten smallish
onions, and braise them all together; then add two large table− spoonfuls of demi−glaze, some salt and
pepper. Serve all very hot on an oval dish.
Braised tongue eats very well with spinach, carrots or sorrel.

Chee pow kai Paper-wrapped chicken

Makes 23–30 parcels
1½in (3.5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp rice wine
1 tsp spiced salt (see below)
½ tsp sugar
5 star anise, broken into pieces
vegetable oil for deep-frying
6 chicken breast halves (1½–3lb total)
fresh cilantro leaves (optional)
fresh chili sauce (optional)
freshly ground black pepper
For the spiced salt
2 tbsp salt
1 tsp five-spice powder
1To make the spiced salt, mix together the salt and five-spice powder. Dryroast
in a clean frying pan over low heat for 3–4 minutes until fragrant, stirring
the mixture to prevent burning. Let cool. This keeps indefinitely when stored
airtight at room temperature.
2Using a pestle and mortar, crush the ginger to a coarse pulp. Take the
pulp in your hand and squeeze all the juice from the ginger into a bowl.
(Alternatively, finely chop the ginger, then mash on a board using the back of
a knife until you have a coarse pulp.) Discard the squeezed pulp.
3Mix the juice with the soy sauce, rice wine, 1 tsp spiced salt, sugar, star
anise, and 1 tbsp oil. Lay the chicken breasts in a flat glass or ceramic
dish. Pour the marinade over the top and season with black pepper. Marinate
the chicken in the refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
4Cut parchment paper into 30 rectangles measuring about 12 x 6in
(30 x 15cm) each. Lightly oil each piece of paper. Cut each chicken breast
into 5 even-sized pieces, and place a piece of chicken on each piece of paper
with a little piece of star anise picked from the marinade. Tightly wrap up the
chicken like a small parcel, using toothpicks to secure the edges.
5Heat the oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat for deep-frying. Fry
the chicken parcels in batches for 3–4 minutes or until the paper browns.
Drain well on paper towels and serve, allowing your guests to unwrap the parcels
for themselves. Garnish with lots of fresh cilantro and chili sauce (if using).

Nonya sambal Spicy green vegetable stir-fry

Serves 4–6
1 head of choy sum (Chinese flowering
cabbage) or 1lb (450g) purple sprouting
broccoli
2 heads of pak choy or bok choy
1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 garlic cloves, crushed
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
4oz (115g) green beans, trimmed
½ cup bean sprouts, rinsed
handful of fresh mint leaves
handful of fresh cilantro leaves
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the sauce
1 tbsp sambal oelek
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp honey
1 tbsp hoisin sauce
1Cut the stems of the choy sum into 2in (5cm) lengths and separate
the leaves. Cut the pak choy in half lengthwise, then cut each half into
4 wedges through the base.
2To make the sauce, combine all the ingredients in a small saucepan, and
reduce over high heat for 2 minutes. Remove from the heat.
3Heat a wok over medium-high heat and add the oil. Stir-fry the garlic and
ginger for about 30 seconds until golden brown and fragrant. Add the choy
sum stems, pak choy, green beans, reduced sauce, and 1 tbsp water, and stir-fry
for 2 minutes. Next add the choy sum leaves and stir-fry for a further minute or
until tender. Add the sprouts, mint, and cilantro, stirring and tossing for
30 seconds until wilted.
4Taste a little of the vegetables with the sauce, and adjust the seasoning
to taste. Season with salt and pepper. It should be hot and spicy, but with
a balance of salty, sour, and sweet flavors. Serve immediately.

Gulai ayam Creamy coconut curry sauce

Serves 6–8
2 garlic cloves, halved
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger
4 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
10 whole macadamia nuts or cashew nuts
15 shallots or 3 scallions (green onions),
finely chopped
1 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
11⁄4in (3cm) piece of cinnamon stick
1⁄4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground turmeric
a little vegetable oil
1 can (14fl oz) coconut milk
juice of ½ lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Using a pestle and mortar, pound the garlic, ginger, and chilies. Add
the macadamia nuts and pound into a paste, then add the shallots and
pound until smooth.
2In a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, dry-roast the coriander
seeds, cumin seeds, fennel seeds, and cinnamon stick for 1 minute. Add
the nutmeg and turmeric, and cook for 1 minute longer, until fragrant. Remove
the spices from the pan, and grind to a fine powder using a pestle and mortar,
or a spice grinder.
3Using the same pan, cook the shallot paste in a little oil over medium-high
heat for 3–4 minutes. Add the ground toasted spices, and continue cooking
for another 3 minutes. (If you are using this sauce for chicken, vegetables, or
prawns, add them now and stir to coat with the spices.) Add the coconut milk
and bring to a boil. Season well with salt and pepper. Reduce the heat, and
simmer for 10 minutes until the sauce is thickened. Add the lemon juice and
check the seasoning. Adjust to suit your taste if necessary. There should be a
sweet richness from the coconut milk and macadamia nuts, while the spices
and chilies will be hot. The lemon juice cuts the rich fattiness.
4Transfer to a small serving bowl if using as a dipping sauce for roti prata
(p46–47). Serve warm or hot. (This sauce can be made in advance and
reheated gently when needed.)

Sate sapi Indonesian beef saté skewers

Serves 6
21⁄4lb (1kg) beef rump, cut into
1in (2.5cm) cubes
½ tsp ground turmeric
4 lime leaves, roughly chopped (if not
available, use the grated zest of 1 lime)
2 stalks lemongrass
1 tsp sea salt
1 tbsp tamarind pulp (see p30)
1 tbsp flour
For the spice paste
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
5 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, halved
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger,
finely chopped
4 shallots, finely chopped
1 tsp ground turmeric
a little vegetable oil
1You will need about 25 bamboo skewers. Soak them in cold water for at
least an hour before threading the beef onto them, so that they do not burn.
2Put the beef in a large glass or ceramic dish. Combine the turmeric, lime
leaf, lemongrass, salt, and tamarind pulp. Use it to coat the beef, and
marinate in the refrigerator for at least 4 hours or preferably overnight.
3Dry-roast the coriander and cumin seeds in a small frying pan over mediumhigh
heat for 2 minutes until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, grind into
a fine powder, then add the pepper and chilies. Continue to work until smooth,
adding the garlic, ginger, shallot, and turmeric in that order. Add a splash of water
to make a smooth paste. Heat a little vegetable oil in a wok over medium-high
heat, and stir-fry the paste for 4 minutes or until fragrant.
4Drain the beef, reserving the marinade. Add the beef to the wok with the
paste. Add 1¼ cups of water and simmer for 4–5 minutes. Remove the beef
and carefully thread onto the skewers. Heat a charcoal grill or ridged cast-iron
grill pan until hot. Grill the beef skewers for 2–3 minutes on each side. Mix the
flour with 1 tbsp of the reserved marinade to make a paste, then add to a
saucepan with the remaining marinade. Bring to a boil over medium heat, and stir
continuously until thickened. Serve the beef skewers with the hot dipping sauce.

ROAST RUMP OF BEEF, BORDELAISE SAUCE

Take three pounds of the rump of beef, put it into a pretty deep pan upon one onion, one sliced carrot, some
thyme, and a bay−leaf, three table− spoonfuls of dripping, salt, and pepper. Put it on the top of the fire, and
when it comes fully to the boil, put it to the side, and allow it to simmer nicely for an hour and a half. Dress it
on a dish and serve the sauce separately.

ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF

ROASTED FILLET OF BEEF
About three pounds of fillet of beef roasted in a good hot oven for forty minutes; let it be rather underdone.
Take three turnips, four good−sized carrots, cut them into jardinière slices. Cook them separately in salted
water, drain them and add salt, pepper, a tiny pinch of sugar and one dessert−spoonful of butter. Dress the fillet on a long dish with the garniture of carrots and turnips, and some artichoke−bottoms cooked in water
and finished with butter, also add some potatoes _château_. Be sure the dish is very hot. Put a little water, or,
for choice, clear stock, upon the roasting−dish and pour it over the fillet.

Roti prata Chicken-stuffed flat bread

Makes 12–14
31⁄3 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
1 tsp sea salt
1 tsp sugar
1⁄4 cup lukewarm milk
12 tbsp (6oz) melted butter
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground coriander
8oz (225g) shredded cooked chicken
2 onions, finely chopped
3 tomatoes, finely chopped
a little beaten egg for brushing
a little vegetable oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Combine the flour, salt, and sugar in a mixing bowl. Add 1⁄2 cup lukewarm
water, the milk, and 2 tbsp of the melted butter, and combine. Knead gently
with your hands for about 7 minutes, adding more water or flour as needed to
create a soft dough. Pinch off pieces the size of large limes and shape into balls.
Roll in the remaining melted butter to coat, then place on a plate. Cover with
plastic wrap, and let stand in a cool place for about 45 minutes.
2For the stuffing, heat a little oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook
the chilies, garlic, cinnamon, and coriander for 2 minutes until fragrant. Stir
in the chicken, onion, tomato, and salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
3Lightly grease a large chopping board with some of the melted butter.
Place a dough ball on the board, dab with a little more melted butter, flatten
slightly with your fingers, then stretch the dough outwards, working from the
center to the edge, until you have a circle of even thickness about 6in (15cm) in
diameter. Repeat with the remaining dough balls, making them as thin as
possible without tearing the pastry. Brush with a little beaten egg. Put a heaping
tablespoon of stuffing on the bottom half of each dough circle in a half-moon
shape, leaving a little lip at the bottom so they can be sealed. Fold over the top
half of the dough to make half-moon parcels. Seal the parcels, making sure no air
bubbles remain. Flute the edges of the dough using your thumb and forefinger.
4Heat a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Drop a couple of the roti
parcels into the frying pan and cook for 2–3 minutes on each side until
golden. Drain on paper towels. Continue frying in batches of 2 or 3 until all of the
parcels are cooked. Serve hot, accompanied by a bowl of the curry sauce

SHOULDER OF MUTTON DRESSED LIKE KID

SHOULDER OF MUTTON DRESSED LIKE KID
My readers have probably tasted a shoulder of kid dressed as mutton. Let them therefore try the converse of
the dish, and, if they really take trouble with it, they will have a dinner of the most delicious. Put into a deep
dish that will hold your shoulder of mutton the following mixture:
A cupful each of oil, vinegar, white wine, red wine, an onion stuffed with cloves, a bunch of herbs which must
be fresh ones−−thyme, parsley, marjoram, sage, a tiny bit of mint, a few bay−leaves−−two medium carrots cut
in slices. Put the shoulder of mutton in this mixture and keep it there for four days, turning it every now and
then and pouring the mixture on it. On the fifth day take it out, and, if you care to take the trouble, you will
improve it by larding the meat here and there. Put it to roast in front of a good fire, with your liquor, which
serves to baste it with, in a pan beneath. If you cannot arrange to hang the mutton by a string to turn like a
roasting jack, then bake it, and continually baste it. A small shoulder is most successful. For one of four
pounds bake for fifty minutes.

Goi cuon Summer rolls with prawns, crab, ginger, and mint

Serves 4–6
3–4oz (100g) dried rice vermicelli
(thin rice noodles)
½ cucumber
12 cooked fresh prawns, peeled
and deveined
3 tbsp cooked crabmeat (use
fresh-picked crabmeat if possible)
10 fresh mint leaves, chopped
2 scallions (green onions), cut into slivers
3⁄4in (2cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
juice of 1 lime
2 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp Asian fish sauce
12 or so rice paper wrappers (available from
Asian grocers or gourmet food shops)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Put the vermicelli in a large bowl and cover with boiling water. Let soak for
about 5 minutes while you prepare the rest of the filling.
2Thinly slice the cucumber, leaving the seeds in the center untouched. Stack
the cucumber slices, then cut into thin matchsticks. If wrapping your
summer rolls in a cone shape, leave the prawns whole; if using the more
traditional cylinder spring-roll shape, halve or finely slice if large. Mix everything
except the vermicelli and rice paper wrappers in a bowl. Drain the vermicelli, cut
into smaller lengths using kitchen scissors, and add to the bowl. Season with salt
and pepper, and mix again. Adjust seasoning.
3Soak the rice paper wrappers, about 5 at a time, in warm water for
20 seconds or until softened. (Be careful they don’t stick together, as they
tear easily.) Lay out 4 or 5 wrappers side by side on a clean damp tea towel on
a flat surface—this keeps the wrappers pliable. Place a tablespoon or so of the
filling on each wrapper about 1in (2.5cm) from the bottom edge and in the center,
leaving 1–2in (2.5–5cm) of wrapper on either side. To make a cone, fold one side
of the wrapper toward the center; to make a more traditional spring roll, fold
both sides toward the center. Fold the bottom edge facing you over the top of
the mixture and, using firm pressure, roll up so the filling is enclosed. (Top the
cones with a little extra filling if needed.) Place on a tray covered with another
clean damp cloth. Repeat the process with the remaining wraps and filling. To
prevent the wrappers drying out, cover tightly with plastic wrap until needed.

Aloo jeera Potato and cumin curry

Serves 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
1⁄3 cup shallots, finely chopped
1lb (450g) all-purpose potatoes, peeled and
cut into ½in (1cm) dice
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
1 tbsp ground coriander
1 tbsp ground cumin
2 green cardamom pods
3 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
4 medium tomatoes, chopped
1 cup canned chickpeas (garbanzo beans),
drained and rinsed in cold water
1 tsp salt
juice of 1 lemon
½ bunch of fresh cilantro
freshly ground black pepper
1Heat the oil in a heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add the garlic and
ginger. Cook for 2–3 minutes until the garlic and ginger are fragrant. Add the
shallot and potato and cook, stirring and tossing, for about 4 minutes or until
the shallot has softened. Stir in the turmeric, mustard seeds, ground coriander,
cumin, and cardamom. Cook for 1 minute until the spices are fragrant, then add
the chilies, tomato, and chickpeas. Add ¼ cup water and the salt, season with
pepper, and cover the pot. Continue cooking over medium-high heat for about
20 minutes until the potato is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife.
2To finish, add the lemon juice and half the cilantro. Taste the curry—it should
have a good balance of spicy, sweet, sour, and salty. Adjust the seasoning
if necessary. Garnish with the remaining cilantro, and serve as part of a larger
selection of curries, grilled fish or meat, dips, and Indian breads.

MUTTON COLLOPS

MUTTON COLLOPS
Take some slices of roast or boiled leg of mutton, egg them, and roll in a mixture of breadcrumbs, salt,
pepper, and a little flower. Fry till the slices are brown on each side; serve with chipped potatoes.

STEWED SHOULDER OF MUTTON

STEWED SHOULDER OF MUTTON
Put in a pan a large lump of butter or clarified fat, and place the shoulder in it. Add two big onions sliced, and
a very large carrot also sliced, thyme, bay−leaf, two cloves, pepper and salt, and, if you like it, two garlic
knobs. Let the shoulder simmer in this by the side of the fire for three hours. Strain the sauce through a fine
sieve, and then add to it either a glass of good red wine or a little made mustard with a teaspoonful of brown
sugar.

SHOULDER OF MUTTON

SHOULDER OF MUTTON
Put a handful of dried white haricots to soak over−night and simmer them the following day for two hours
with some salt. Rub your shoulder of mutton with a little bit of garlic before putting it in the oven to cook, and
when it is done, serve with the haricots round it, to which have been added a pat or two of butter.

RAGOUT OF MUTTON

RAGOUT OF MUTTON
Fry the mutton very well. Then place in another pan sufficient water to cover your mutton, adding pepper,
salt, a little nutmeg, a celery, and a few white turnips cut in pieces. When they are well cooked, add the meat
and let all simmer for two hours.

Chaat anardana hari mirch Chaat with green chili and pomegranate

Serves 6
a little vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp crushed red chilies
1 small onion, finely chopped
8oz (225g) mixed mung bean sprouts and
alfalfa sprouts, rinsed and drained
1 orange
1 apple, cored
1 pomegranate
3 scallions (green onions), finely sliced
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
½ bunch of fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
naan or pita bread, cut into triangular pieces
and toasted, to serve
Fresh mango chutney
1 ripe mango, peeled and finely diced
2 fresh red chilies, seeded and
finely diced
½ tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp brown sugar
2 tbsp tamarind pulp (see p30)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the garlic
and dried chilies until aromatic. Add the onion and cook quickly until the
onion is soft and just starting to color. Add the sprouts. Continue cooking quickly,
stirring, for 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and turn into a bowl. Peel the
orange and cut into segments, removing any pith. Cut the orange flesh into a small
dice, then finely dice the apple. Add the orange and apple to the sprout mixture.
2To remove the seeds from the pomegranate, take the fruit in your left hand
and tap firmly all over with a wooden spoon. Cut the pomegranate in half,
hold each half over the bowl containing the sprout mixture, and continue to firmly
tap the outside of the fruit. The seeds will fall out, leaving the bitter white pith
behind. Next add the scallions, chilies, and cilantro. Toss gently to mix.
3Put all the chutney ingredients in a small saucepan. Add ½ cup water and
bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, and simmer for 12–15 minutes or until the
excess water has evaporated. Remove from the heat, and cool. Spoon about
3 tbsp of the chutney onto the sprout mixture. The mixture is then spooned onto
the naan bread and eaten at once. If serving as canapés, add the topping just
before serving.

DRESSED CAULIFLOWER

DRESSED CAULIFLOWER
Simmer a cauliflower till it is tender. Pour out the liquor, and add to it a bit of butter, the size of a nut, rolled
in flour, a pinch of nutmeg, a tablespoonful of Gruyère cheese and a little milk.
Bind the sauce with a little feculina flour. At the moment of serving, pour the sauce over the cauliflower,
which you have placed upright on a dish. The nutmeg and the cheese are indispensable to this dish.