Pudim de abóbora Pumpkin pudding

Serves 4–6
11⁄2lb (675g) pumpkin (choose a sweet,
firm-fleshed variety) or butternut squash,
peeled and cut into cubes
4 large eggs
½ cup (packed) plus 2 tbsp brown sugar
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground nutmeg
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
½ tsp salt
1 cup half-and-half or light cream
butter to grease the mold
1Preheat the oven to 350°F (180°C). Combine the pumpkin in a large
saucepan with a little water, and cook over medium heat until soft. Drain,
then mash until smooth, removing any stringy bits.
2Beat the eggs with half the brown sugar until pale and thick. Add the
remaining sugar, the spices, and the salt. Mix the half-and-half into the
pumpkin purée, then fold in the egg mixture.
3Lightly butter 6 individual ramekins or custard cups. Alternatively, to make
one large pudding, butter 1–1¼ quart soufflé dish or other baking dish. Set
the ramekins (or large dish) in a roasting pan and carefully fill the pan with enough
hot water to reach about halfway up the sides of the ramekins (or large dish).
Carefully place in the oven, and bake until just set or a toothpick comes out
clean—about 40 minutes for individual ramekins and 1 hour 20 minutes for
a large single pudding. Serve warm with biscotti or similar cookies.

Molho de cajú Green cashew nut sauce

Serves 8 or more
4 tbsp raw cashews
2 garlic cloves
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and diced
2 shallots, finely diced
½ cup olive oil or untoasted sesame oil
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
juice of 2 limes
½ bunch of fresh basil, coarsely chopped
½ bunch of cilantro, coarsely chopped
pinch of sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
pinch of sugar or a little freshly
squeezed orange juice (optional)
1Dry-roast the cashews over medium heat, watching carefully to avoid
burning, and turning frequently until they are golden brown all over.
2To make the sauce, first make a paste of the garlic and chilies in a food
processor or blender, then add the shallot and process until a coarse paste
forms. Now add the cooled cashews, and process once again until smooth.
With the motor running, very gradually add the oil in a thin, steady stream, then
add the vinegar and 1 tbsp water. With the motor on a low speed, add the lime
juice, then the basil and cilantro, until you have a smooth green paste. Taste
and adjust the seasoning with a pinch of sea salt and black pepper, and more
lime juice if needed. If the chilies are too hot, add a pinch of sugar or some
orange juice, if you like.

Mole pipian Pipian sauce with cinnamon

Serves 8
3 tbsp olive oil
2 dried red chilies
1 onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup shelled raw peanuts
1 cup hulled raw pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
3 cloves
½ tsp ground allspice
½ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp dried thyme
1 canned chipotle (smoked jalapeño
chili) in adobo sauce
1 tsp sugar
2½ cups chicken stock
juice of 1 lime
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Add the dried chilies and cook for a
minute, turning, until toasted. Transfer the chilies to a bowl, cover with hot
water, and soak for 20 minutes. When soft, cut off and discard the chili stem.
Discard some or all of the chili seeds, if desired. In the same pan, cook the onion
and the garlic, stirring occasionally until softened, adding a little extra oil if needed.
2In a separate pan over low heat, first toast the peanuts, then the pumpkin
seeds, watching carefully to make sure that they don’t burn. Transfer the
peanuts and pumpkin seeds to a food processor, and add the onion/garlic
mixture, soaked chilies, cloves, allspice, cinnamon, thyme, chipotle, and sugar.
Process with ½ cup of the chicken stock until smooth, working in small
batches, if necessary.
3Return the purée to the pan in which the onion was cooked and cook over
low heat. Add the remaining chicken stock, and stir until the sauce is the
texture of melted ice cream. Taste the sauce. There is a sweetness from the
onion and chicken stock, and the chilies and spices are hot. The roasted nuts
and salt add to its savory qualities. Adjust the seasoning, if necessary.
4Add the lime juice just before serving, to wake up the flavors and bring
them into balance. Serve with grilled or roasted meat.

Salsa verde Green tomato salsa

Serves 6
6 (unripe) green tomatoes
1 onion
2 garlic cloves
4 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
½ bunch cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
2 avocados
½ bunch parsley, coarsely chopped
juice of 2 limes
2 tbsp olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cut the tomatoes in half. Scoop out the center core of seeds and place in a
sieve over a bowl. Chop the flesh into a fine dice and set aside. Cut the onion
in half, and grate the flesh so that you are left with a pulp. Set this aside also.
2Cut the garlic in half and remove any green shoot from the center (this part
of the garlic is bitter and can cause digestive problems). Chop the garlic
finely. Using a large pestle and mortar, pound the garlic with the green chilies and
a pinch of salt to make a smooth paste. Add half of the cilantro leaves and all of
the onion to the paste. Still using the pestle and mortar, continue to pound until
you have a coarse green paste.
3Using a wooden spoon, push the tomato cores and their seeds through the
sieve into the pestle and mortar, extracting all the juice. Discard the seeds
and pour any juice that has collected in the bowl into the paste.
4Halve, peel, and pit the avocado. Cut the flesh into ½in (1cm) dice. Add the
avocado and green tomato to the paste. Pound a few times so part of it is
crushed and the remaining part remains as dice. Mix in the parsley and remaining
cilantro. Mix in the lime juice and olive oil. Season well with salt and pepper.
Check the seasoning. The avocado makes it sweet, the lime juice and green
tomato add the sour element, and the green chilies and black pepper supply
heat. The salsa should have a real tang and zip to it. Adjust the green chili
content to suit your taste, if necessary.
5Serve in a bowl or in a sandwich, or spread on steak, grilled lamb, grilled
chorizo, or sausages. It is great with just about anything.

Empanadas de marisco Seafood empanadas

Makes 12
olive oil for cooking
2 white onions, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
½lb (225g) mussels in their shells
splash of white wine
¼lb (115g) peeled uncooked prawns
½lb (225g) white fish such as hake or cod
3 tomatoes, diced
juice of ½ lemon
1⁄2 bunch of cilantro, coarsely chopped
1 cup grated mild Cheddar cheese
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the pastry
1¼ cups all-purpose flour
1 cup yellow masa harina
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 stick (4oz) unsalted butter, melted
2 large eggs
1Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the onion,
garlic, and chilies until soft. Remove from the pan. Add the mussels and a
splash of white wine to the pan, and cover. Steam for 3 minutes or until the
mussels open. Remove the mussels from the pan, discard the shells, and set the
meat aside. Strain the cooking liquid through a fine sieve and return to a clean pan.
2Add the prawns, fish, tomato, and onion mixture to the cooking liquid.
Simmer gently for about 4 minutes. Season with salt and pepper, and add
the lemon juice. Remove the solids with a slotted spoon, and add to the mussels.
Simmer the cooking liquid until reduced by one-third. Pour over the seafood, and
add the cilantro and grated cheese. Season to taste and set aside.
3Sift the flour, masa harina, baking powder, and salt into a large bowl. Stir in
the cooled melted butter. Whisk 1⁄3 cup water and 1 of the eggs in a small
bowl. Add to the flour mixture. Knead for 2 minutes until smooth and pliable.
4Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). On a floured surface, roll out the dough
until 1in (2.5cm) thick. Cut into 2–21⁄2in (5–6cm) rounds. Place a spoonful of
the seafood mixture just below the center of each round. Brush the edge of the
pastry with egg wash, then fold the top half over, to form a half-moon. Crimp the
edges together, squeezing out any air. Bake for 12–15 minutes until golden.

Sopa mexicana de flor de calabaza Mexican pumpkin flower soup

Serves 6
3½ cups good-quality chicken stock
a little olive oil
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 onion, finely chopped
2 ripe tomatoes
8oz (225g) pumpkin flowers or
zucchini flowers
juice of 2 limes
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Bring the chicken stock to a boil in a saucepan. Meanwhile, heat a large
heavy frying pan and add a little olive oil. Reserve some of the chilies to
garnish the soup, and cook the remainder in the hot oil with the garlic for
1–2 minutes or until fragrant. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally,
until pale golden brown.
2Cut the tomatoes in half, and grate the open side of each half on a large
grater. (This is a quick method of getting the pulp from the tomatoes; the
skin stays in your hand and can then be discarded.) Add the tomato to the pan
with the onion. Discard the stems from the pumpkin flowers and coarsely chop
the flowers, reserving 6 whole flowers for garnish. When the tomato has cooked
down slightly, add the chopped pumpkin flowers to the pan. Cook for 2 minutes
until the flowers are barely wilted. Pour in the hot chicken stock, and season
with salt and pepper. Simmer for 5 minutes.
3While the soup is simmering, heat a small frying pan and add a little olive oil.
Cook the reserved whole pumpkin flowers until they are wilted and parts are
golden brown. Season with salt and pepper, and add the reserved green chilies.
Remove from the heat and set aside.
4Using a blender or food processor and working in batches as needed,
process the soup until smooth; return it to the pan. Add the lime juice. Taste
and adjust the seasoning—there should be a balance between the sweet onion,
chicken stock, spicy green chilies, and salt. The lime juice wakes up the flavors
and provides a delicious sour edge to this simple soup. To serve, pour into
bowls and garnish each with a whole pumpkin flower and some green chilies.

Picarones Sweet potato and pumpkin doughnuts

Makes 12–15 doughnuts
2 medium sweet potatoes, about 9–10oz
(250–275g) total, peeled and cut into
large chunks
½lb (250g) pumpkin or butternut squash,
peeled and cut into large chunks
1 tsp salt
½ tsp crushed anise seed
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 envelope (¼oz) active dry yeast
freshly ground black pepper
oil for deep frying
honey or maple syrup to serve
1Place the sweet potato and pumpkin in a large saucepan with just enough
water to soften (don’t add too much water, as the sweet potato and pumpkin
have enough liquid content of their own—otherwise you will end up with mush).
Bring to a boil and simmer until tender, stirring frequently, to prevent sticking.
2Drain off any excess liquid, and mash the sweet potato and pumpkin
together to form a smooth purée. Season with the salt, anise seed, and
pepper. Transfer to a large bowl, then stir in the flour. In a small bowl, sprinkle the
yeast over ¼ cup warm water and stir to mix. Set aside for 5–10 minutes until
the yeast bubbles. Add to the sweet potato mixture to make a fairly firm dough,
adding more water or flour if necessary. Cover and let sit for 2 hours in a warm,
draft-free spot until the dough has puffed up to almost double in size.
3Heat the oil for deep frying. To test if the oil is hot enough, tear off a small
ball of dough and shape into a ring by pressing it flat in your hands and
making a hole in the center with your thumb and forefinger. Gently drop the
doughnut into the oil, being careful to avoid any splattering from the hot oil, and
fry until golden brown on both sides, turning once during the cooking. Drain on
paper towels. Taste and adjust the seasoning of the dough—it may need a little
extra salt or some more anise seed. When you are happy with the seasoning,
form the rest of the dough into rings, and fry in batches until pale golden brown
on both sides, again turning once during cooking.
4These are best eaten at once. Serve piping hot with honey or maple syrup
for drizzling over the top.

Bistec con chimichurri Seared steak with chimichurri

Serves 6
6 tender beef steaks, the cut of your choice
a little good-quality olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the chimichurri
3 small dried red chilies
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp sea salt
½ tsp sugar
¼ cup vinegar
juice of 2 lemons
½ cup olive oil
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley,
coarsely chopped
30 fresh oregano or marjoram
leaves, coarsely chopped
1To make the chimichurri, crush the dried chilies using a pestle and mortar.
Add the garlic, salt, and sugar, and continue pounding until you have a
smooth paste. (The salt and sugar will act as abrasives and help form a paste.)
Next add the vinegar and lemon juice to moisten the paste, then mix in the olive
oil. Sprinkle in the parsley and oregano, and season with pepper. Taste the sauce
and adjust the seasoning if necessary. It should have a bold mix of flavors, to
bring out the sweetness of the beef.
2Heat a little olive oil in a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Working in
batches as needed, when the pan is hot, sear the steaks on both sides until
cooked to the desired doneness. Transfer to a large pan or platter and let rest for
a few minutes. Pour any meat juices that have collected in the pan into the
chimichurri. Transfer to serving plates, top each steak with chimichurri, and serve
at once. Alternatively, grill the beef instead of pan-searing, or use pork chops or
grilled chorizo sausages instead.

Salsa de melocotón Fresh peach salsa

Serves 8
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
3 medium-hot fresh red jalapeño chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
3 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
½ red onion, finely diced
3 fresh ripe peaches or nectarines
juice of 3 limes
½ tsp pimentón (good-quality paprika)
pinch of sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1Place the garlic, chilies, scallions, and red onion in a bowl. Slice the peaches
in half but do not peel. Remove the pits and cut the flesh into ½in (1cm) dice.
Add to the bowl. Pour in the lime juice (this helps to prevent the peach from
discoloring, as well as adding a bit of zing).
2Add the pimentón and salt to the salsa, and season with pepper. Gently stir
until well mixed. Serve as an accompaniment to grilled meat or chicken.

Lezumes en escabeche Spicy vegetable pickleMakes 1 large glass jar ¼ cup rice wine vinegar ¼ cup red wine vinegar 1 tbsp sugar 2 tsp sea salt 3 dried allspice berries 2 bay leaves 6 onions, finely chopped, rinsed in cold water, and drained

Makes 1 large glass jar
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
¼ cup red wine vinegar
1 tbsp sugar
2 tsp sea salt
3 dried allspice berries
2 bay leaves
6 onions, finely chopped, rinsed in cold
water, and drained
2 carrots, finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and
finely chopped
4 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
fresh cilantro, mint, or flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped
1Bring the rice wine vinegar, red wine vinegar, sugar, salt, allspice, and bay
leaves to a simmer in a covered heavy saucepan over medium-high heat,
then remove the pan from the heat.
2Pack the onion, carrot, red pepper, and chilies into a large sterilized glass jar
or container with a secure-fitting lid, and pour the vinegar mixture over the
top. Let cool at least 4 hours before using. (The pico de gallo will keep for a long
time, but must be refrigerated once opened.)
3Before using, mix the vegetable pickle with the chopped fresh herbs.
Serve as an accompaniment to grilled or roasted meat, or the Seafood
Empanadas

Barbecued jerk chicken with pineapple salsa

Serves 4
4 boneless chicken breast halves
4 tbsp jerk paste (see below)
For the jerk paste
5 jalapeño chilies, seeded and
finely chopped
2 tbsp ground allspice
1 tbsp ground cinnamon
1 tbsp ground nutmeg
juice of 3 limes
1 onion, finely chopped
finely grated zest of 2 oranges
½ tbsp tamarind paste
For the pineapple salsa
1⁄4 fresh pineapple, peeled and
cut into ½in (1cm) dice
1 crisp green apple, cored and diced
1⁄2 bunch of fresh cilantro
1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili, seeded
and diced
juice of 2 limes
1 small red onion, diced
pinch of sea salt
freshly ground black pepper
1To make the jerk paste, combine all the paste ingredients in a blender or
food processor. Process, pulsing the machine on and off, until a paste
forms. (This paste will keep for 5–7 days stored in a tightly sealed glass jar in
the refrigerator.) Coat each chicken breast with 1 tbsp of the jerk paste, and
marinate in the refrigerator for at least 3–4 hours, preferably overnight.
2When you are ready to cook, prepare the pineapple salsa by combining
all the ingredients in a medium bowl. Set aside until ready to use.
3Heat an outdoor grill until hot. Grill the chicken on both sides until white
throughout but still juicy. Serve with the pineapple salsa. (For variation,
serve with the peach salsa

Acaraje com salada fresca Bean patties with avocado and tomato salad

Serves 4–6
For the acaraje
21⁄4lb (1kg) dried black-eyed peas
1 large onion, grated
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
1 fresh hot red chili, seeded and
finely chopped
vegetable oil for frying
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the salad
1 avocado, sliced
4 ripe tomatoes, sliced
4 scallions (green onions), sliced
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp vinegar
2 tbsp good-quality olive oil
1Soak the peas in cold water for 2 hours. Rinse well in fresh cold water, and
remove the skins and black eyes. Put the peas and onion in a pan. Cover
with water, bring to a boil, and simmer for about 40 minutes until soft. Drain.
Purée the mixture and cayenne pepper in a food processor until smooth.
2Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan. Cook the garlic and ginger over low heat
for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add the paste, season with salt and pepper, and
keep over low heat. Beat the mixture well with a wooden spoon to prevent it from
sticking, as you would when making polenta. Cook for 15–20 minutes, stirring from
the bottom occasionally. Check seasoning. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3Heat oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. When hot, take a dessert
spoon and quickly dip it into the hot oil. Fill the spoon with the black-eyed
pea mixture, forming a firm, round shape. Place in the hot oil. Continue until you
have a few patties in the pan. Cook for 6–8 minutes or until golden brown. Drain
on paper towels. Continue cooking in small batches until all the mixture is used.
4To make the salad, mix together the avocado, tomato, scallions, and chilies.
Combine the lemon juice, vinegar, and olive oil and season well with salt and
pepper. Pour this dressing over the salad, and serve with the fried acaraje and
perhaps some grilled prawns.

Queijo na brasa Grilled salty cheese marinated with oregano

Makes 12 skewers
2 small dried red chilies, crushed
1 tbsp dried oregano or marjoram,
crumbled
3 tbsp olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
1lb (450g) queijo de coalho or haloumi
cheese, cut into 12 rectangular blocks
freshly ground black pepper
1Crush the chilies with half the oregano, and mix with the olive oil and lemon
juice. Set aside.
2Thread the cheese onto 12 bamboo skewers, and soak the cheese,
skewers and all, in cold water for an hour, to prevent the skewers burning
on the grill and to remove excess salt from the cheese.
3Heat a charcoal grill until the coals are white hot. (If you want to cook inside,
heat a grill pan until very hot.) When your grill is ready, sprinkle the cheese
skewers with the remaining oregano and a few grindings of black pepper. Grill
the cheese for 2–3 minutes on each side until golden brown but still firm (not
completely melted).
4Arrange on a plate and drizzle with the chili-olive oil dressing. Serve at once.
These skewers are delicious as a snack or could be eaten at the start of a
summer barbecue before other dishes are served. They work very well for meat
eaters and vegetarians alike because they are quite substantial and make a nice
change from grilled corn on the cob.

Caldo de sururu Spicy mussel soup

Serves 4–6
2 small fresh red-hot chilies, seeded and
finely chopped
2 garlic cloves
6 fresh cilantro sprigs, leaves removed and
stems finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
2 medium white onions, finely chopped
4½lb (2kg) mussels in their shells
6 ripe tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 bay leaves
1¼ cups canned coconut cream or
coconut milk
juice of 2 limes plus extra limes, cut into
wedges, for garnish
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Using a mortar and pestle, crush the chilies with the garlic and salt. Add the
cilantro stems and work into a paste. Heat a large heavy pan over mediumhigh
heat. Cook the chili paste in the oil. Add the onion and cook for 3 minutes or
until softened. Tap each mussel lightly on the work surface, and discard any that
do not open, then add the mussels, tomato, and 2 cups water to the onion
mixture. Cover and cook for 3 minutes. Add the bay leaves and continue cooking
until the mussels open (discard any unopened mussels). Remove from the heat,
and transfer the mussels and onion to a bowl. Let cool. Strain the cooking liquid
through a sieve and set aside.
2Prize open the mussels completely; remove the meat and discard the
shells. Place two-thirds of the mussel meat in a food processor with the
cooled tomato and onion mixture. Purée with the coconut cream until smooth.
Return the purée to the heavy pan with the strained mussel cooking liquid and
another 2 cups water, bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer for
10 minutes. Add the reserved whole mussels to the pan, season well with
salt and pepper, and add the lime juice.
3Taste the soup. It should be rich and creamy, with a good base of chili flavor.
The lime juice cuts through the richness to ensure the soup has a perfect
balance of flavors, rather than being cloying. Serve hot in small cups or shot
glasses, with each serving garnished with a lime wedge.

Kueh pisang Banana and cinnamon pancakes

Makes 12 pancakes
2 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
2 tsp ground cinnamon plus
extra, for garnish
2 eggs, beaten
½ cup milk
6 large ripe bananas
2 tbsp sugar
pinch of salt
powdered (confectioners’) sugar
vegetable oil for cooking
freshly squeezed lemon juice
1Sift the flour, baking powder, and the 2 tsp cinnamon into a large bowl.
Make a well in the center. Add the eggs and half the milk. Beat well until
you have a smooth batter, then add the remaining milk and stir in thoroughly.
2Peel the bananas and, using a fork, mash with the sugar and salt. Mix the
mashed banana into the batter.
3Sprinkle some parchment paper with a dusting of powdered sugar to have
ready when the pancakes are cooked. Heat a little oil in a frying pan over
medium-high heat. Drain off any excess oil, then drop in a dollop of the batter
to make a pancake 5–7in (12–18cm) in diameter. (Alternatively, you can make
smaller pancakes.) Cook on both sides until golden, tossing once with a spatula
about halfway through. Continue until all the batter has been used, turning the
pancakes onto the powdered sugar as you go.
4Sprinkle each pancake with a little extra powdered sugar and a pinch
of ground cinnamon. Add a squeeze of lemon, fold each pancake into
quarters, and serve hot.

Nua nam tok Hot and sour grilled beef salad with roasted rice

Serves 4
1lb (450g) top sirloin or other tender beef,
trimmed of fat
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp five-spice powder
2 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, sliced into
thin matchsticks
4 scallions (green onions), cut into fine slivers
2 shallots, thinly sliced
½ bunch of fresh cilantro leaves
20 fresh mint leaves
juice of 3 limes
1 tbsp Asian fish sauce
2 tbsp soy sauce
4 tbsp ground roasted rice (see below)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Season the meat with the cinnamon, cumin, five-spice powder, salt, and
black pepper. On a preheated outdoor grill or stovetop grill pan, cook the
beef over a medium-high heat for 6–8 minutes or until medium-rare. Let the
meat rest in a warm place for 5 minutes.
2To make the salad, thinly slice the beef and mix in a bowl with the chilies,
ginger, scallions, and shallots. Top with the cilantro and half of the mint.
Add the lime juice, fish sauce, and soy sauce. Add half of the ground roasted
rice. Toss gently to mix. The flavors should be hot, sour, and salty. Add more
chilies, lime juice, and fish sauce, if necessary.
3Slice the remaining mint into thin strips. Serve the salad garnished with the
remaining roasted rice and the mint.
Roasted rice Roasted rice is not difficult to make and has a great nutty flavor.
It is similar to toasted sesame seeds, so you could use those instead, if you like.
But roasting rice is worth the effort. Simply scatter a couple of handfuls of raw
jasmine or sticky rice on baking sheet. Bake in a preheated 350°F (180°C) oven
for 6–8 minutes or until evenly golden and fragrant. Check frequently while
cooking to avoid burning. Remove from the oven and let cool on the baking
sheet. When cool, grind using a pestle and mortar. It is very hard, so it needs to
be pounded until it is broken up into fine pieces but not ground to a powder.

Penang laksa Seafood laksa

Serves 4–6
2in (5cm) fresh root ginger, grated
2 tbsp tamarind pulp (see p30)
1 tsp sea salt
1lb (450g) whole red snapper, skinned
4 dried chilies, crushed
2 stalks lemongrass, tough outer
leaves discarded
2 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
8 shallots, peeled
2 tbsp shrimp paste, roasted
6oz (165g) dried rice noodles, about
¼in (5mm) wide
8oz (225g) fresh crabmeat
8oz (225g) peeled and deveined
fresh prawns
juice of 2 limes
15 Thai basil leaves
½ cucumber, cut into matchstick-size pieces
8oz (225g) fresh pineapple, cut into
matchstick-size pieces
handful of fresh mint leaves
1Put the ginger, 1 tbsp of the tamarind pulp, and salt into a pan. Cover
with 3½ cups water and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and add the red
snapper. Cover and simmer for 6–8 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove
the fish and let cool. (Do not discard the cooking liquid.) When cool, discard any
bones and set the fish aside. Strain the cooking liquid—this forms the stock.
2Meanwhile, soak the dried chilies in a little boiling water for 10 minutes or
until soft, then remove and discard the seeds. Soak the seeded chilies in a
fresh batch of hot water for another 10 minutes. Drain and finely chop. Thinly slice
the lemongrass. Process the lemongrass and dried and fresh chilies to a paste.
Add 6 of the shallots, the roast shrimp paste, and a little fish stock. Process until
very smooth. Scrape into a saucepan and cover with the remaining fish stock.
Bring to a boil and cook uncovered for 20 minutes, then reduce to a simmer.
3Soak the rice noodles in warm water for 5 minutes. Bring another pan of
water to a boil, drain the noodles, and cook in a boiling water for 3 minutes.
Drain, then run the noodles under cold water to remove excess starch.
4Return the fish to the simmering stock, add the crabmeat and prawns, and
simmer for 3 minutes. Add the remaining tablespoon of tamarind pulp, lime
juice, and basil. Check the seasoning. Divide the noodles among warmed bowls,
and top each with equal portions of fish, shellfish, and broth. Garnish each bowl
with cucumber, pineapple, mint, and the remaining shallots cut into slivers.

Goi du du Hot and sour squid and green mango salad

Serves 4–6
½lb (225g) baby squid, cleaned and
cut in half lengthwise
2 unripe green mangoes
1 green unripe papaya
1in (2.5cm) piece of fresh ginger
5 lime leaves (if not available, use finely
grated zest of 3 limes), thinly sliced
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely sliced
2 stalks lemongrass, tough outer leaves
discarded, thinly sliced
20 fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped
handful of fresh cilantro leaves,
coarsely chopped
1⁄3 cup blanched peanuts, cashews, or
sesame seeds (or a combination of all
three), dry-roasted until golden
salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the dressing
1 tbsp tamarind paste (see p30)
2 tbsp Asian fish sauce
1 tbsp soy sauce
juice of 2 limes
juice of 1 orange
1 tsp palm sugar or granulated sugar
1If the squid is thick, turn over so the outer side is facing upward. With a
knife, score diagonal lines from corner to corner two-thirds of the way into
the flesh. Repeat in the opposite direction to make a diamond pattern. Heat an
outdoor grill or grill pan until very hot. Season the squid with salt and pepper, and
place skin-side down on the grill. Leave for 90 seconds, then turn over. Cook for
90 seconds on the other side. When it begins to curl, it is ready. Place the squid
on a board and cut into bite-size pieces.
2Peel the green mango and papaya. Still using a vegetable peeler, shave
slices of the flesh, stack in piles of 5 shavings, and slice thinly, resulting in
matchstick-size pieces. Put the mango, papaya, and squid in a large bowl. Slice
the ginger into thin shavings, then cut into matchsticks. Add the ginger, lime leaf,
scallions, chilies, and lemongrass to the bowl with the squid. Sprinkle in twothirds
of the mint, cilantro, and roasted nuts. Toss through.
3Combine all of the ingredients for the dressing. Pour over the salad, tossing
gently to mix. Check the seasoning—it should be sour and hot, slightly salty,
and sweet. Serve sprinkled with the remaining mint, cilantro, and roasted nuts.

Moily haldi Coconut and turmeric fish soup

Serves 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp raw cashews
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
finely chopped
2 fresh red Thai chilies, seeded and
finely chopped, plus extra, cut into
slivers, for garnish (optional)
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves and
stems finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
3½ cups good-quality fish stock
1¼ cups canned unsweetened
coconut cream or coconut milk
2 tsp dark brown sugar
juice of 2 limes
1lb (450g) baby squid, cleaned
1lb (450g) uncooked large prawns, peeled,
deveined, and halved lengthwise
1lb (450g) firm white fish, cut into
bite-size chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp of the oil, and lightly
brown the cashews. Set aside. In the same oil, cook the garlic, ginger, and
chopped chilies for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, pound
the cashews, cilantro stems, garlic, ginger, and chilies to make a paste. Set
aside. Heat the remaining oil in a clean heavy pan over low heat. Add the
onion. Gently cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft.
2Meanwhile, crush the fennel seed and coriander seed using a pestle and
mortar. When the onion is soft, add the fennel and coriander seeds and the
turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add half of the cashew paste. Pour in
the fish stock and coconut cream, then add the sugar and season with salt and
pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lime juice and remaining nut paste. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. It should have a balance of sweet richness and acidity.
3While the soup base is simmering, slit open the squid and, using a small
sharp knife, carefully score the outside in a crisscross pattern. Cut the squid
into bite-size pieces. Put in a bowl with the prawns and fish. Season well with salt
and pepper. Add to the soup, and simmer for 3 minutes or until the prawns turn
pink and the squid is opaque. Stir in half of the cilantro leaves. Serve at once in
small bowls garnished with the remaining cilantro leaves and red chilies (if using).

ONION SOUP (BELGIAN RECIPE)

Mince some thick onions, five or six, and let them color over the fire in butter. Add a dessert−spoonful of
flour, sprinkling it in, and the same amount in gravy; thicken it with potatoes and when these are cooked,
peas, all through a sieve. Bring the purée to the right consistency with milk, and let it simmer for a few
minutes before serving, adding pepper and salt.

POTAGE LEMAN

Make a good gravy with one and one−half pounds of skirt of beef. With one half of the gravy make a very
good purée of peas−−if possible the green peas−−with the other half make a good purée of tomatoes. Combine
the two purées, adding pepper and salt and a dust of cayenne. For each guest add to the soup a teaspoonful of
Madeira wine, beat it all well and serve quickly. Or add, instead of Madeira, one dessert−spoonful of sherry
wine.
This celebrated soup is honored by the name of the glorious defender of Namur.

TOMATO PURÉE

Begin by cleaning four potatoes, two leeks, a celery, four carrots, three pounds of big tomatoes; well wash all
these vegetables and cut them in dice, the tomatoes a little larger. Cook them all gently for an hour in nearly
two pints of gravy, to which you have already added two thick slices of bread and a pinch of salt. Take care
that your vegetables do not stick to the bottom of the pan. When all is well cooked, pass it through a fine
tammy. Add more gravy, or water and meat juice; make it of the consistency that you wish. Bring it to the boil
again over the fire, adding pepper and salt, and just before serving a bit of fresh butter also. It is a great
improvement to add at the last minute the yolk of an egg, mixed in a little cold water, quickly stirred in when
the soup is off the fire.
The three recipes for seven or eight persons.

CRECY SOUP (BELGIAN RECIPE)

Take ten carrots, two onions, one leek, five potatoes, and cook all gently in water, with salt and pepper; when
they are tender, rub them through the sieve and serve it very hot.

FLEMISH SOUP

To two pounds of washed and picked Brussels sprouts add ten potatoes, two onions, two leeks, salt, pepper.
Cook all gently and pass through a sieve. Add at the last moment a sprinkle of chopped chervil.

BELGIAN PURÉE

Cook two pounds of Brussels sprouts in boiling water. Take them out, drain them and toss them in butter for
five minutes, sprinkle them with a teaspoonful of flour, and then cook them in gravy (or meat extract and
water), fast boiling, over a good fire, and keep the lid of the saucepan off so that they may remain green. Pass them through the sieve, leave them in ten minutes, bind the mixture with the yolks of three eggs, a pint of
milk; then at the last minute one dessert−spoonful of butter for each pint and a half of soup.

AMBASSADOR SOUP

A pint and a half of either fresh peas, or of dried peas that have been soaked for six hours in cold water; a
leek, and three onions chopped finely. Simmer till the peas are tender, then pass all through the sieve. Well
wash some sorrel and chop it, and add as much as will be to your taste. In another pan cook five
tablespoonfuls of rice, and add that to your soup. Simmer up again, stirring it all very well. This soup should
be of a green color.

WATERZOEI

This is an essentially Flemish soup. One uses carp, eels, tench, roach, perches, barbel, for the real waterzoei is
always made of different kinds of fish. Take two pounds of fish, cut off the heads and tails, which you will fry
lightly in butter, adding to make the sauce a mixed carrot and onion, three cloves, a pinch of white pepper, a
sprig of parsley, one of thyme, a bay−leaf; pour in two−thirds of water and one−third of white wine till it
more than covers the ingredients and let it simmer for half− an−hour. Then the pieces of fish must be cut an
equal size, and they are placed to cook quickly in this liquor for twenty minutes. Five minutes before serving
add a lemon peeled and cut into slices and the pips removed. Some people bind the sauce with breadcrumbs
grated and browned. You serve, with this dish, very thin slices of bread and butter. For English tastes, the
heads and tails should be removed when dressing the dish.

A GOOD BELGIAN SOUP

is called _crême de sauté_. Itself one of the most wholesome of vegetables, watercress combines admirably
with potatoes in making soup. Wash, dry, and chop finely four ounces of the leaves picked from the stalks, fry
slowly for five minutes with or without a thinly−sliced onion, add one pound of potatoes cut in small dice, and
fry, still very slowly, without browning; pour in one quart of water or thin stock, simmer gently,
closely−covered, for from thirty−five to fifty minutes, rub through a hair sieve, and having returned the puree
to the saucepan with a half−teaspoonful of castor sugar, and salt and cayenne to taste, thicken with one
table−spoonful of flour stirred smoothly into one breakfast−cupful of cold milk; boil up sharply, and serve
sprinkled with watercress.

CHERVIL SOUP

Put a bone of veal on to cook in water, with four or five potatoes, according to the quantity desired. When
these are tender, pass them through the tammy and return them to the soup. Chop up the chervil, adding to it
half a dessert−spoonful of cornflour. Quarter of an hour before serving, put in the chervil, but take the cover
off the pot, so that it remains a good green color. Pepper and salt to be added also.

A GOOD PEA SOUP

Soak your dried peas over−night. The following day boil some fresh water, and throw in the peas, adding a
few chopped onions and leeks, with pepper and salt. Let the soup simmer for three hours on the top of the
stove, giving it a stir now and then. If you have a ham−bone, that is a great improvement, or the water in
which some bacon has been boiled is a good foundation for the soup, instead of the fresh water.