DRESSED CAULIFLOWER

DRESSED CAULIFLOWER
Simmer a cauliflower till it is tender. Pour out the liquor, and add to it a bit of butter, the size of a nut, rolled
in flour, a pinch of nutmeg, a tablespoonful of Gruyère cheese and a little milk.
Bind the sauce with a little feculina flour. At the moment of serving, pour the sauce over the cauliflower,
which you have placed upright on a dish. The nutmeg and the cheese are indispensable to this dish.

BRUSSELS SPROUTS

BRUSSELS SPROUTS
(The best way to cook them)
Having cleaned and trimmed your sprouts, let them simmer in salted water, to which you have also added a
little soda to preserve the color. Or, if you do not like to add soda, keep the pan firmly covered by the lid.
When tender, take them out and let them drain, place them in another pan with a good lump of butter or fat;
stir, so as to let the butter melt at once, and sprinkle in pepper and a tiny pinch of nutmeg.

CHICORY

This excellent vegetable can be dressed either in a bechamel sauce, or with butter and lemon−juice. It is
gently stewed, first of all, and it requires pepper and salt. The sauces can be varied with tomato, or with some
of the good English bottled sauces stirred with the bechamel.

CAULIFLOWER À LA REINE ELIZABETH

CAULIFLOWER À LA REINE ELIZABETH
Simmer the cauliflowers till tender. Prepare a mince of veal and pork, and season it well with a little spice.
Butter a mold and fill it with alternate layers of mince and of cauliflower broken in small pieces. Fill a large
saucepan three−quarters full of boiling water and place the mold in this; let it cook for one hour in this way
over the fire; turn it out and pour a spinach sauce over it.

MUSHROOMS À LA SPINETTE

MUSHROOMS À LA SPINETTE
Make some puff pastry cases, wash and chop the mushrooms and toss them in butter to which you have added
a slice of lemon. Make a bechamel sauce with cream, or, failing that, with thick tinned cream, and mix with
the mushrooms. Heat the cases for a few minutes in the oven and fill them with the hot mixture.

VEGETABLE SALAD

VEGETABLE SALAD
The special point of this dish is that peas, beans, carrots in dice, are all cooked separately and when they are
cold they are placed in a large dish without being mixed. Decorate with the hearts of lettuce round the edge
and with slices of tomato, and pour over it, or hand with it, a good mayonnaise.

Tawa mooli paratha Crispy paratha

Makes 8
For the dough
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup all-purpose flour
2 tsp salt
For the filling
1 daikon (Japanese radish), about 6in
(15cm) long, grated
1 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, grated
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
½ bunch of fresh cilantro,
coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tbsp (½ stick) unsalted butter, melted,
for cooking
1To make the dough, sift the two flours and salt into a large bowl. Make a well
in the center, and slowly mix in 1 cup cold water to form a dough. Turn onto
a lightly floured work surface. Knead well for 10 minutes. Return the dough to the
bowl and cover with a damp cloth. Let sit for 45 minutes.
2Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Place the daikon on a clean towel, and
squeeze all the liquid out until it is very dry. Toast the cumin and coriander
seeds in a small dry frying pan over medium heat for 2 minutes or until fragrant.
Crush the seeds using a pestle and mortar, or a spice grinder. Mix all the filling
ingredients together, and season well with salt and pepper.
3Once the dough has rested, divide into 8 equal-sized balls. Knead each
one again for a couple of minutes. Roll each dough ball into a disc about
31⁄2in (8cm) in diameter. Place a spoonful of filling in the center of each disc.
Fold the edges into the center to cover the filling completely, then give the
gathered edges a slight twist to seal the bundle shut. Turn over so the sealed
side is facing down. Gently roll until the paratha is about twice its original width.
4Heat a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Slap a paratha into the
pan and cook for 30 seconds. Turn over and cook for another 30 seconds.
Brush with melted butter and turn again. Press down with a spatula, brush with
more melted butter, then turn again, cooking for 30 seconds each time. Turn a
couple of times more, leaving for about 10 seconds each time before turning
again. Cook for 3 minutes total, until golden brown with a few dark spots. Cut
into wedges and serve.

RED CABBAGE

RED CABBAGE
Mince the cabbage and put it in a pan with plenty of refined fat (clarified fat) and two or three large potatoes,
pepper and salt. Add sufficient water to cover it, with a dash of vinegar and six dessert− spoonfuls of brown
or moist sugar. Let it simmer for four hours, drain it and serve cold.

BELGIAN CARROTS

BELGIAN CARROTS
Clean well the carrots, cut them in dice, and wash them well. Put them on the fire with enough water to cover
them, a bit of butter, an onion well minced, salt and pepper and a dessert−spoonful of powdered sugar. Place
the dish in the oven for at least an hour, and, when you serve it, sprinkle over the carrots some minced parsley.

STUFFED TOMATOES

STUFFED TOMATOES
Take ten good tomatoes and cut off the tops, which are to serve as lids. Remove the insides, and fill with the
following mixture: minced veal and ham, rather more veal than ham, mushrooms tossed in butter, a little
breadcrumb, milk to render it moist, pepper and salt. Put on the covers and add on each one a scrap of butter.
Bake them gently in a fireproof dish. The following excellent sauce is poured over them five minutes before
taking them out of the oven: Use any stock that you have, preferably veal, adding the insides of the tomatoes,
pepper and salt; pass this through the wire sieve. Make a _roux_−−that is, melt some butter in a pan, adding
flour little by little and stirring until it goes a brown color. Add to it then your tomatoes that have been
through the sieve, and some more fried mushrooms. Pour this sauce over the whole and serve very hot.

Patta moongphali chatni Fresh cilantro and peanut chutney

Serves 6–8
3 tbsp skinless raw peanuts
1 garlic clove, peeled
½ tsp salt
1 tsp sugar
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
4 fresh green jalapeño chilies, seeded and
finely chopped
1 large bunch of fresh cilantro, coarsely
chopped
juice of 2 limes
1Roast the peanuts in a dry frying pan until golden brown, taking care they
do not burn. Remove from the heat, and let cool before placing in a food
processor with the garlic, salt, sugar, cumin, and ground coriander. Process to
a paste. Add the green chilies, cilantro, and 2 tbsp water. Process to a smooth
or coarse paste, or leave with a bit of texture, according to your taste.
2Transfer to a bowl and stir in the lime juice. Taste and adjust seasoning.
It should be hot from the chilies, sweet from the roasted nuts, and salty
and sour from the lime juice. Use at once.

Bhindi chatpatti Spicy fried okra

Serves 4–6
2 tbsp Greek-style yogurt
1½ cups chickpea flour
1½ tsp chili powder
1 tsp ground cumin
21⁄4lb (1kg) fresh okra
1¼ cups vegetable oil, for deep frying
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon wedges, for serving
1To make the batter, spoon the yogurt into a large bowl. Sift in the chickpea
flour, and whisk together to blend. Add the chili powder and ground cumin.
Continue whisking while slowly adding cold water, a few tablespoons at a time,
until the batter is the consistency of heavy cream. If it is too thin, simply add a
little extra yogurt. Season well with salt and pepper, then set aside while you
prepare the other ingredients.
2Cut the okra in half lengthwise. Place in a colander and rinse thoroughly
under cold water. Let drain for a few minutes, then give the colander a
good shake to drain off any excess water. Turn the okra onto a clean towel, and
pat dry to remove any moisture.
3Heat the vegetable oil in a heavy pan over medium heat. To test that the
oil is hot enough, coat a piece of okra with the batter and drop into the oil.
It should sizzle immediately; if it doesn’t, let the oil get hotter before adding any
more okra. When the oil is ready, take a handful of okra and dip into the batter.
Carefully drop the battered okra into the hot oil, scattering them across the
surface of the oil so that they do not stick together. (It is important to cook the
okra in batches; otherwise the temperature of the oil will drop and the okra will
become soggy.) Move the okra around the pan as they are frying, separating
them with a slotted spoon. Fry for about 3 minutes or until golden brown all
over. Remove from the oil and drain well on paper towels. Keep warm while
you continue cooking in batches until all the okra is used.
4Sprinkle with salt and serve in a large stack with lemon wedges to squeeze
over—the acidity of the lemon complements the spicy okra. Alternatively,
make small parchment paper cones, securing the edges with toothpicks. Fill
each one with some of the fried okra, and finish with a squeeze of lemon juice
before serving at once.

Chaat Ratnesh Spicy seasoned potato in a cone

Serves 8
3 all-purpose medium potatoes
2 tbsp flaked coconut
a little vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
8oz (225g) mixed mung bean sprouts and
alfalfa sprouts, rinsed and drained
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, seeded and finely diced
2 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
juice of 1 lemon
30 fresh cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
3 tbsp Date and Tamarind Chutney
(see p30)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1First make the cones to hold the filling; these will take the greatest amount
of time, so it is better to have them all ready before you start cooking. You
will need some banana leaves. Cut them into 4in x 8in (10cm x 20cm) rectangles,
allowing for 3 rectangles per person. Roll each rectangle into a tight cone. Secure
the edges with a toothpick to hold in place.
2Peel the potatoes and cut into ½in (1cm) chunks. Place in a pan of cold
water with a little salt and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer
until the potato is tender when pierced with the tip of a sharp knife, but still
firm. Drain in a sieve and let cool.
3Place a dry heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add the coconut and toast,
stirring often, until golden brown. Remove and set aside. Add a little oil
to the pan, and cook the onion for 3–4 minutes until golden brown. Increase the
heat to high, add the bean sprouts, and cook quickly for another 2 minutes. Next
add the chilies and red bell pepper. Cook quickly for another couple of minutes
until the mixture is crisp-tender. Season well with salt and black pepper. Stir
in the lemon juice.
4Combine the cooked mixture with the diced potato, scallions, and Date
and Tamarind Chutney. Stir in the cilantro. Taste the mixture and adjust the
seasoning. The seeds and coconut should provide a good crunch. Using a small
spoon, fill the cones and hand them to your guests with small spoons to eat
the filling. Eat at once so the filling does not soften the cone. You can refill the
banana-leaf cones as needed.

Khajar imli chatni Date and tamarind chutney

Makes about 4 jars
2–3in (5–7.5cm) fresh ginger, grated
6 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
21⁄4lb (1kg) pitted dates, coarsely chopped
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp cumin seeds
4 green cardamom pods
2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground cloves
1 large onion, finely chopped
½lb (250g) tomatoes, chopped
1 cup (packed) brown sugar
1 cup tamarind pulp (see note below)
1 cup malt vinegar
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Combine the ginger, chilies, and garlic in a food processor. Process,
pulsing on and off, until you have a thick paste. Add half the dates and
process until they are coarsely puréed. (Leave the other half coarsely chopped.)
Toast the coriander seeds, cumin seeds, cardamom pods, cinnamon, nutmeg,
and cloves in a small heavy pan over medium-high heat for 2–3 minutes, or until
fragrant. Remove from the pan and grind until smooth using a pestle and mortar
or a spice grinder. Press through a sieve to remove any coarse pieces.
2Put all the ingredients, including the spice and date mixtures, in a heavy
saucepan. Add 2 cups water, and cook over low heat for 1–2 hours to make
a thick, dark relish. Stir frequently to avoid the sugar sticking to the bottom of the
pan. Taste and season well with salt and pepper. This chutney can be eaten right
away or bottled in sterilized glass jars with tight-fitting lids. Store in a cool, dark
place, and keep refrigerated once opened.
Using tamarind Tamarind is available in various forms. It can be bought in a
block, which contains the pulp, seeds, and stringy fibers. To use this, place in
a bowl and pour over 3½ cups boiling water. Let the mixture cool, then break
up the sticky pieces, pressing the seeds away from the flesh with your fingers.
Remove any seeds and tough fibers. Add another 2 cups water and press
through a fine sieve. This is tamarind pulp. Alternatively, you can buy jars of pulp
already prepared. There is also a tamarind concentrate available; this needs to
be diluted with water because it is very black and very strong.

Moily haldi Coconut and turmeric fish soup

Serves 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp raw cashews
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
finely chopped
2 fresh red Thai chilies, seeded and
finely chopped, plus extra, cut into
slivers, for garnish (optional)
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves and
stems finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
3½ cups good-quality fish stock
1¼ cups canned unsweetened
coconut cream or coconut milk
2 tsp dark brown sugar
juice of 2 limes
1lb (450g) baby squid, cleaned
1lb (450g) uncooked large prawns, peeled,
deveined, and halved lengthwise
1lb (450g) firm white fish, cut into
bite-size chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp of the oil, and lightly
brown the cashews. Set aside. In the same oil, cook the garlic, ginger, and
chopped chilies for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, pound
the cashews, cilantro stems, garlic, ginger, and chilies to make a paste. Set
aside. Heat the remaining oil in a clean heavy pan over low heat. Add the
onion. Gently cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft.
2Meanwhile, crush the fennel seed and coriander seed using a pestle and
mortar. When the onion is soft, add the fennel and coriander seeds and the
turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add half of the cashew paste. Pour in
the fish stock and coconut cream, then add the sugar and season with salt and
pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lime juice and remaining nut paste. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. It should have a balance of sweet richness and acidity.
3While the soup base is simmering, slit open the squid and, using a small
sharp knife, carefully score the outside in a crisscross pattern. Cut the squid
into bite-size pieces. Put in a bowl with the prawns and fish. Season well with salt
and pepper. Add to the soup, and simmer for 3 minutes or until the prawns turn
pink and the squid is opaque. Stir in half of the cilantro leaves. Serve at once in
small bowls garnished with the remaining cilantro leaves and red chilies (if using).

Masala papad Masala popadums with tomato and green chili

Serves 6
2 tsp ground cumin
3 tomatoes
1 onion, finely chopped
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 tsp medium-hot red chili powder
juice of 2 limes
½ bunch of fresh cilantro leaves
12 popadums or about 24 mini popadums
(use freshly cooked or store-bought)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Put the ground cumin in a small dry frying pan, and toast over medium heat
for about 2 minutes until fragrant.
2Halve the tomatoes, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into a fine dice.
Mix the tomato and onion in a bowl with the green chilies. Season well with
salt and pepper. Add the toasted cumin powder and the chili powder, then stir in
the lime juice. Scatter over the cilantro leaves and gently stir through.
3When ready, scoop some of the mixture onto each of the popadums, and
serve at once.

Shawi ras el hanut ghanmi Spicy lamb chops

Serves 4–6
4 tbsp (½ stick) unsalted butter, cut
into pieces
½ tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground ginger
½ tsp ground cardamom
large pinch of ground cloves
½ tsp ground Lebanese spice
mix (see p218)
2 garlic cloves, crushed
30 cilantro leaves, chopped
30 mint leaves, chopped
juice of 1 lemon
12 lamb loin chops, trimmed of excess fat
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Gently melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Add the spices
and cook for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Add the garlic, cilantro, and mint.
Mix well, then season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice and remove from
the heat. Let sit in a warm place for at least 1 hour to blend flavors.
2Heat an outdoor grill, grill pan, or broiler until very hot. Season the lamb with
salt and pepper, then brush with the spicy butter. When the grill has reached
a high heat, cook the lamb for 4–5 minutes on each side, continuing to baste
frequently with the butter to keep the meat moist and impart flavor. (Infusing the
spices in a warm place so that all the flavors blend and then basting frequently
are the keys to making this dish a rousing success.) Grill until the meat is brown
and crispy on the outside, but still pink and juicy on the inside. Let the chops
rest 3–5 minutes before serving at once.

Luz biskwi Almond and cardamom biscuits

Makes 20–30 biscuits
2 cups flour
2½ tbsp cold unsalted butter, cut
into chunks
1 tbsp orange flower water
2⁄3 cup almonds, cooked in a small amount
of oil until golden; drained and then ground
3 green cardamom pods
sugar to taste
vegetable oil for deep-frying
1Sift the flour into a large bowl, and rub the butter into the flour with your
fingertips until the mixture is the texture of breadcrumbs. Add the orange
flower water and a little cold water, just enough to make a smooth, soft dough.
Cut the dough into small pieces, and open them out with your index finger and
thumb so you have uneven, semi-flattened shapes. Heat 1in (2.5cm) or more of
vegetable oil in a saucepan over medium heat until very hot. Fry the biscuits in
small batches for a few minutes until golden brown. Drain on paper towels.
2Using a pestle and mortar, first grind the roasted almonds, then the
cardamom pods. Mix the almonds, cardamom, and some sugar together,
and toss the fried dough pieces in the mixture until coated. Serve warm or at
room temperature, as a snack or with coffee or tea, or alongside a milk or
cream dessert such as good-quality ice cream or a custard.

Houmous bil erfeh lahem Hummus with cinnamon lamb

Serves 6
2 garlic cloves
¼ tsp crushed dried red chilies
1 (15oz) can chickpeas (garbanzo beans),
drained and rinsed
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp cayenne pepper
small handful of flat-leaf parsley, plus extra,
coarsely chopped, for garnish
3 tbsp lemon juice
1 tbsp Greek-style yogurt
2 tbsp sunflower oil
¼lb (115g) ground or minced lamb
1 tsp ground cinnamon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
chopped toasted almonds or walnuts,
to garnish (optional)
1To make the hummus, crush the garlic with the dried chili flakes and a little
salt until you have a smooth paste. In the bowl of a food processor, combine
the rinsed chickpeas with the garlic paste and olive oil and process until almost
smooth. Using a spatula, push all the mixture down from the sides of the bowl
before adding the cayenne pepper, parsley, and lemon juice. Season with salt
and pepper, and add the yogurt. With the motor running, gradually add the
sunflower oil in a thin, steady stream until you have a smooth light paste.
(If you want a slightly thinner consistency, simply add a little water.)
2Heat a frying pan over medium-high heat, add a little oil, and cook the lamb
until brown and crispy. Sprinkle over the cinnamon and season well with salt
and pepper. Stir through well.
3Spoon the lamb into a well in the center of the chickpea purée, and
sprinkle with the extra chopped parsley. This is a delicious sauce that
complements grilled meat, fish, or vegetables. If desired, garnish with chopped
toasted almonds or walnuts.

Tarator bi tahini Sesame tarator sauce

Serves 6 as part of a mezze selection
2 garlic cloves
½ tsp salt
large pinch of cayenne pepper
1 cup (8oz) tahini (sesame seed paste)
½ cup good-quality olive oil
2⁄3 cup fresh lemon juice
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Crush the garlic cloves with the back of a heavy knife on a board. Add the
salt and cayenne pepper. Continue to work until you have a smooth paste.
2Transfer the garlic paste to a bowl, and whisk continuously while slowly
pouring in the tahini and olive oil, as if you were making a mayonnaise. If
the mixture gets too thick, thin with a little lemon juice, then continue the process.
Once all the tahini and olive oil have been incorporated, add the remaining lemon
juice. Taste the sauce and season with a little salt and pepper if necessary.
Note If the nut flavor is too overpowering, try whisking a little yogurt into the
mixture, which softens the intensity.
Tarator bi sonoba (pine nut tarator sauce) Remove the crust from 2 slices
white bread. Soak the bread in a little milk until soft. Crush 2 peeled garlic cloves
with the back of a heavy knife on a board. Add ½ tsp salt and a large pinch of
cayenne pepper. Work until smooth. Place the paste in a food processor with
2 cups pine nuts and process until finely chopped. Add the soaked bread and
any excess milk. Continue to process, gradually adding ½ cup oil in a thin, steady
stream, as if you were making a mayonnaise. Thin the sauce with the juice of
2 lemons. Taste and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. This
delicious sauce complements grilled meat, fish, and vegetables. You could use
a combination of nuts such as almonds or walnuts to get a more complex depth
of flavor, or roast some of them before grinding to create more contrast.

Ablama Zucchini stuffed with lamb and pine nuts

Serves 6
2lb (900g) small zucchini
½ cup olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp ground cloves
½ tsp ground cinnamon
1 onion, finely chopped
1¼lb (550g) ground lamb
¾ cup pine nuts
3 ripe tomatoes
30 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
1 cup good-quality chicken stock
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cut the tops off the zucchini and, using a small spoon or melon baller, hollow
out the inside of each.
2Heat 1 tbsp of the olive oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat.
Cook the garlic, cumin, cloves, and cinnamon for a couple of minutes until
fragrant. Add the onion and cook until soft and pale golden, then add the lamb.
Continue cooking until all the liquid has evaporated, breaking up and stirring the
lamb around the pan to brown evenly. Season well with salt and pepper. Mix in
the pine nuts. Taste and adjust the seasoning.
3Cut a cross in the bottom of the tomatoes and, using the tip of a small
sharp knife, remove the core from each one. Blanch in boiling water for
10 seconds, then refresh in cold water. Peel off the skin and discard. Cut the
tomatoes in half, remove the seeds, and cut the flesh into a small dice. Set aside.
4Using a small spoon, stuff the zucchini with the lamb mixture, pushing the
filling down into each zucchini so it is plump with stuffing. Heat the
remaining oil, and cook the zucchini, turning, until soft. Cook in batches while
continuing to stuff the remainder of the zucchini.
5Mix the diced tomato with the parsley, and season with salt and pepper.
Add the lemon juice and chicken stock. Place the cooked zucchini in a
flameproof dish. Pour the tomato mixture over the top, and cook over medium
heat until the sauce is hot. Serve with rice or bread. This dish works particularly
well with a selection of other mezze dishes, with lots of hot bread to soak up
all the good cooking juices.

Muhammara Spiced tomato relish

Serves 6–8
2 red bell peppers
¾ cup walnuts
¾ cup hazelnuts
10 cherry tomatoes, halved
1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili, seeded
and finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, halved
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
½ cup olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
1Heat a grill pan or broiler until very hot. Grill the peppers, turning often, until
the skin is blistered and charred on all sides. Transfer to a bowl and cover
tightly with plastic wrap. (The trapped moisture makes it easier to peel off the
blackened skin.) When cool enough to handle, peel off and discard the skin;
then halve and remove any seeds and membrane. Coarsely chop the flesh.
2Process the walnuts and hazelnuts in a food processor until finely ground.
Add the bell pepper, tomatoes, chili, garlic, cayenne, cumin, and
pomegranate molasses. Work into a smooth paste. With the motor running,
gradually add the oil in a thin, steady stream, as if you were making a
mayonnaise. If the mixture gets too thick, add a little of the lemon juice.
Once all the oil has been incorporated, process in the remaining lemon juice.
3Serve at room temperature as a dip with lots of hot fresh pita bread, or
as one of many dishes as part of a mezze selection. If making in advance,
refrigerate until needed. It will keep up to 5 days, and over time the flavors will
only become more vibrant.

FLEMISH ENDIVE

FLEMISH ENDIVE
Choose twelve endives that are short and neat; cut off the outside leaves and pare the bottom; wash them in
plenty of water, and cook them in simmering water for three minutes. Then take them from the water and
place them in a well−buttered frying−pan, dust them with salt and also with a pinch of sugar. Add the juice of
half a lemon, and rather less than a pint of water. Place the pan on the fire for two or three minutes to start the
cooking, then cover it closely, and finish the cooking by placing it in the oven for fifty minutes. Take out the
endives and put them in the vegetable−dish and pour over them the liquor in which they have been cooked.
This liquor is improved by being reduced, and when off the fire, by having a small piece of butter added to it.
The above recipe can be used for chicory as well as for endive.

Kara’a Libyan pumpkin dip

Serves 6
1lb (450g) pumpkin, peeled, seeded, and
flesh cut into 1in (2cm) cubes
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chili, seeded
and finely chopped
juice of 1 lemon
¼–½ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Place the pumpkin in a saucepan with ½ cup water and simmer, partially
covered, for about 10 minutes or until soft. Season well with salt and pepper.
Drain. Mash the pumpkin with a fork until smooth. Set aside.
2Dry-roast the caraway and cumin seeds in a small frying pan over mediumhigh
heat for a couple of minutes until fragrant. Crush the toasted seeds
using a pestle and mortar. Add the garlic, chili, and a pinch of salt, and work into
a smooth paste. Add the spice mixture to the pumpkin along with the lemon
juice. Mix, then stir in enough olive oil to make a dipping consistency. Serve
either hot or cold as part of a mezze, accompanied by lots of hot pita bread.

POTATOES IN THE BELGIAN MANNER

POTATOES IN THE BELGIAN MANNER
Take some slices of streaky bacon, about five inches long, and heat them in a pan. When the bacon is
half−cooked, take it out of the pan and in the fat that remains behind fry some very finely−sliced onions till
they are brown. When the onions are well browned, put them in a large pot, large enough for all the potatoes
you wish to cook, adding pepper, salt, and a coffee−spoonful of sweet herbs dried and mixed, which in
England replace the thyme and bay−leaves used in Belgium. Add sufficient water to cook the potatoes and
your slices of bacon. Cook till tender.

TOMATOES AND SHRIMPS

TOMATOES AND SHRIMPS
Lay on a dish some sliced tomatoes, taking out the seeds, and sprinkle them over with picked shrimps. Then
pour over all a good mayonnaise sauce. For the sauce: Take the yolk of an egg and mix it with two soup−
spoonfuls of salad oil that you must pass in very gently and very little at a time. Melt a good pinch of salt in a
teaspoonful of vinegar (tarragon vinegar, if you have it); add pepper and a small quantity of made mustard. In
making this sauce be sure to stir it always the same way. It will take about half−an−hour to make it properly.

Lohz Spiced roast almonds

Serves 6–8 with drinks
3 tbsp sunflower oil
1½ cups whole blanched almonds
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground chili powder
½ cup brown sugar
juice of ½ lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Preheat the oven to 300°F (150°C). Heat a heavy frying pan over mediumhigh
heat. Add the oil, almonds, cumin, cinnamon, chili powder, and twothirds
of the brown sugar. Toss the nuts in the sugar to coat thoroughly. Continue
to sauté until the nuts are caramelized and the sugar has melted. Stir in the
lemon juice and remove from the heat.
2Transfer the nuts to a bowl, and season well with salt and pepper, stirring
to mix. Spread the nuts on a baking sheet and bake for 5 minutes, just to
let them dry out. Sprinkle with the remaining brown sugar to taste.
3Serve warm or at room temperature. They will keep in a clean, dry airtight
container for a couple of weeks without spoiling.
Grinding and refreshing spices Grinding your own spices from whole pods and
seeds is so simple it is worth making this a habit. The reward far outweighs any
extra time and effort involved, as freshly ground spices have much better flavor
and aroma than store-bought versions do. Invest in an electric coffee grinder or
a wooden one that has a small drawer. Grind a batch as small or as large as you
want, then sieve to get rid of any tough husks. (Don’t make too large a batch if
you are not going to be using it within a relatively short period of time, as it will
only become stale.) Store the spice mixture in an airtight glass jar with a tightfitting
lid, and use as needed. To refresh ground spices, place the quantity that
you want to use in a dry frying pan or skillet, and heat over low-medium heat
for a couple of minutes until the spice becomes fragrant.

SPINACH À LA BRACONNIÈRE

SPINACH À LA BRACONNIÈRE
Cook two pounds of well−washed spinach; drain it, and pass it through a sieve; or, failing a sieve, chop it very
finely with butter, pepper and salt. Do not add milk, but let it remain somewhat firm. Make a thick bechamel
sauce, sufficient to take up a quarter of a pound of grated Gruyère, and, if you wish, stir in the yolk of a raw
egg. Lay in a circular dish half a pound of minced ham, pour round it the thick white sauce, and round that
again the hot spinach. This makes a pretty dish, and it is not costly.

A DISH OF HARICOT BEANS

A DISH OF HARICOT BEANS
Put the haricots to soak for six hours in cold water. Boil them in water with one carrot, one onion, salt, two
cloves, a good pinch of dried herbs. Drain off the liquor from the haricots. Chop up a shallot, and fry it in
butter; add your haricots, with pepper and salt and tomato purée. Stir well, and serve with minced parsley
scattered at the top.

Salatet bil s’banegh joz Spinach and walnut salad

Serves 4
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
½lb (225g) fresh spinach leaves, rinsed,
stems discarded, and coarsely chopped
¼ cup walnut halves and pieces
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
½ cup Greek-style yogurt
20 fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped
seeds of ½ pomegranate (see method
on p36)
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat the olive oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat, and cook
the onion for 4–5 minutes until pale golden. Add the spinach and stir for a
couple of minutes to wilt. Remove from the heat. In a separate pan, dry-roast the
walnuts over medium-high heat for a few minutes, then coarsely chop. Crush
the garlic with a little salt and add to the yogurt.
2Season the spinach with salt and black pepper. Drain off any excess liquid
and place on a serving dish. Pour the yogurt and garlic mixture over the top.
Scatter with walnuts and mint, and garnish with the pomegranate seeds.