FISH.

THE meat of fish is the animal food next in importance to that of birds and mammals. Fish meat, with but few exceptions, is less stimulating and nourishing than meat of other animals, but is usually easier of digestion. Salmon, mackerel, and eels are exceptions to these rules, and should not be eaten by those of weak digestion. White fish, on account of their easy digestibllity, are especially desirable for those of sedentary habits. Fish is not recommended for brain-workers on account of the large amount of phosphorus (an element abounding largely in nerve tissue) which it contains, but because of its easy digestibility. It is a conceded fact that many fish contain less of this element than meat. Fish meat is generally considered cheaper than meat of other animals. This is true when compared with the better cuts of meat, but not so when compared with cheaper cuts. To obtain from fish its greatest value and flavor, it should be eaten fresh, and in season. Turbot, which is improved by keeping, is the only exception to this rule. To Determine Freshness of Fish. Examine the flesh, and it should be firm; the eyes and gills, and they should be bright. Broiling and baking are best methods for cooking fish. White fish may often be fried, but oily rarely. Frozen fish are undesirable, but if used, should be thawed in cold water just before cooking. On account of its strong odor, fish should never be put in an ice-box with other food, unless closely covered. A tin lard pail will be found useful for this purpose. White and Oily Fish
White fish have fat secreted in the liver. Examples: cod, haddock, trout, flounder, smelt, perch, etc. Oily fish have fat distributed throughout the flesh. Examples: salmon, eels, mackerel, bluefish, swordfish, shad, herring, etc. Cod belongs to one of the most prolific fish families (Gadidoe), and is widely distributed throughout the northern and temperate seas of both hemispheres. On account of its abundance, cheapness, and easy procurability, it forms, from an economical standpoint, one of the most important fish foods. Cod have been caught weighing over a hundred pounds, but average market cod weigh from six to ten pounds; a six-pound cod measures about twenty-three inches in length. Large cod are cut into steaks. The skin of cod is white, heavily mottled with gray, with a white line running the entire length of fish on either side. Cod is caught in shallow or deep waters. Shallow-water cod (caught off rocks) is called rock cod; deep-water cod is called off-shore cod. Rock cod are apt to be wormy. Cod obtained off George’s Banks, Newfoundland, are called George’s cod, and are commercially known as the best fish. Quantities of cod are preserved by drying and salting. Salted George’s cod is the best brand on the market. Cod is in season throughout the year. Cod Liver Oil is obtained from cods’ livers, and has great therapeutic value. Isinglass, made from swimming bladder of cod, nearly equals in quality that made from bladder of sturgeon. Haddock is more closely allied to cod than any other fish. It is smaller (its average weight being about four pounds), and differently mottled. The distinguishing mark of the haddock is a black line running the entire length of fish on either side. Haddock is found in the same water and in company with cod, but not so abundantly. Like cod, haddock is cheap, and in season throughout the year. Haddock, when dried, smoked, and salted, is known asFinnan Haddie. Halibut is the largest of the flatfish family (Pleuronectidæ), specimens having been caught weighing from three to four hundred pounds. Small, or
chicken, halibut is the kind usually found in market, and weighs from fifteen to twenty-five pounds. Halibut are distinctively cold-water fish, being caught in water at from 32° to 45° F. They are found in the North Atlantic and North Pacific oceans, where they are nearly identical. The halibut has a compressed body, the skin on one side being white, on the other light, or dark gray, and both eyes are found on the dark side of head. Halibut is in season throughout the year. Turbot (called little halibut) is a species of the flatfish family, being smaller than halibut, and of more delicate flavor. Turbot are in season from January to March. Flounder is a small flatfish, which closely resembles the sole which is caught in English waters, and is often served under that name. Trout are generally fresh-water fish, varying much in size and skin-coloring. Lake trout, which are the largest, reach their greatest perfection in Lakes Huron, Michigan, and Superior, but are found in many lakes. Salmon trout is the name applied to trout caught in New York lakes. Brook trout, caught in brooks and small lakes, are superior eating. Trout are in season from April to August, but a few are found later.
Whitefish is the finest fish found in the Great Lakes. 16
Smelts are small salt-water fish, and are usually caught in temperate waters at the mouths of rivers. New Brunswick and Maine send large quantities of smelts to market. Selected smelts are the largest in size, and command higher price. The Massachusetts Fish and Game Protective Law forbids their sale from March 15th to June 1st. Smelts are always sold by the pound. 17
Bluefish belongs to the Pomatomidæ family. It is widely distributed in temperate waters, taking different names in different localities. In New England and the Middle States it is generally called Bluefish, although in some parts called Snappers, or Snapping Mackerel. In the Southern States it is called Greenfish. It is in season in our markets from May to October; as it is frozen and kept in cold storage from six to nine months, it may be obtained throughout the year. The heavier the fish, the better its quality. Bluefish weigh from one to eight pounds, and are from fourteen to twenty-nine inches in length. 18
Mackerel is one of the best-known food fishes, and is caught in North Atlantic waters. Its skin is lustrous dark blue above, with wavy blackish lines, and silvery below. It sometimes attains a length of eighteen inches, but is usually less. Mackerel weigh from three-fourths of a pound to two pounds, and are sold by the piece. They are in season from May 1st to September 1st. Mackerel, when first in market, contain less fat than later in the season, therefore are easier of digestion. The supply of mackerel varies greatly from year to year, and some years is very small. Spanish mackerel are found in waters farther south than common mackerel, and in our markets command higher price. 19
Salmon live in both fresh and salt waters, always going, inland, usually to the head of rivers, during the spawning season. The young after a time seek salt water, but generally return to fresh water. Penobscot River Salmon are the best, and come from Maine and St. John, New Brunswick. The average weight of salmon is from fifteen to twenty-five pounds, and the flesh is of pinkish orange color. Salmon are in season from May to September, but frozen salmon may be obtained the greater part of the year. In the Columbia River and its tributaries salmon are so abundant that extensive canneries are built along the banks. 20
Shad, like salmon, are found in both salt and fresh water, always ascending rivers for spawning. Shad is caught on the Atlantic Coast of the United States, and its capture constitutes one of the most important fisheries. Shad have a silvery hue, which becomes bluish on the back; they vary in length from eighteen to twenty-eight inches, and are always sold by the piece, price being irrespective of size. Jack shad are usually cheaper than roe shad. The roe of shad is highly esteemed. Shad are in season from January to June. First shad in
market come from Florida, and retail from one and one-half to two dollars each. The finest come from New Brunswick, and appear in market about the first of May. 21
Caviare is the salted roe of the sturgeon. 22
Herring are usually smoked, or smoked and salted, and, being very cheap, are a most economical food. 23
SHELLFISH
I. Bivalve Mollusks
Oysters are mollusks, having two shells. The shells are on the right and left side of the oyster, and are called right and left valves. The one upon which the oyster rests grows faster, becomes deeper, and is known as the left valve. The valves are fastened by a ligament, which, on account of its elasticity, admits of opening and closing of the shells. The oyster contains a tough muscle, by which it is attached to the shell; the body is made up largely of the liver (which containsglycogen, animal starch), and is partially surrounded by fluted layers, which are the gills. Natural oyster beds (or banks) are found in shallow salt water having stony bottom, along the entire Atlantic Coast. The oyster industry of the world is chiefly in the United States and France, and on account of its increase many artificial beds have been prepared for oyster culture. Oysters are five years old before suitable for eating. Blue Points, which are small, plump oysters, take their name from Blue Point, Long Island, from which place they originally came. Their popularity grew so rapidly that the supply became inadequate for the demand, and any small, plump oysters were soon sold for Blue Points. During the oyster season they form the first course of a dinner, served raw on the half-shell. In our markets, selected oysters (which are extremely large and used for broiling) Providence River, and Norfolk oysters are familiarly known, and taken out of the shells, are sold by the quart. Farther south, they are sold by count. 24
Oysters are obtainable all the year, but are in season from September to May. During the summer months they are flabby and of poor flavor, although when fresh they are perfectly wholesome. Mussels, eaten in England and other parts of Europe, are similar to oysters, though of inferior quality. Oysters are nutritious and of easy digestibility, especially when eaten raw. 25
To Open Oysters. Put a thin flat knife under the back end of the right valve, and push forward until it cuts the strong muscle which holds the shells together. As soon as this is done, the right valve may be raised and separated from the left. 26
To Clean Oysters. Put oysters in a strainer placed over a bowl. Pour over oysters cold water, allowing one-half cup water to each quart oysters. Carefully pick over oysters, taking each one separately in the fingers, to remove any particles of shell which adhere to tough muscle. 27
Clams, among bivalve mollusks, rank in value next to oysters. They are found just below the surface of sand and mud, above low-water mark, and are easily dug with shovel or rake. Clams have hard or soft shells. Soft-shell clams are dear to the New Englander. From New York to Florida are found hard-shelled clams (quahaugs). Small quahaugs are called Little Neck Clams and take the place of Blue Points at dinner, when Blue Points are out of season. 28
Scallops are bivalve mollusks, the best being found in Long Island Sound and Narragansett Bay. The central muscle forms the edible portion, and is the only part sent to market. Scallops are in season from October first to April first. 29
II. Crustaceans
Lobsters belong to the highest order of Crustaceans, live exclusively in sea-water, generally near rocky coasts, and are caught in pots set on gravelly
bottoms. The largest and best species are found in Atlantic waters from Maine to New Jersey, being most abundant on Maine and Massachusetts coasts. Lobsters have been found weighing from sixteen to twenty-five pounds, but such have been exterminated from our coast. The average weight is two pounds, and the length from ten to fifteen inches. Lobsters are largest and most abundant from June to September, but are obtainable all the year. When taken from the water, shells are of mottled dark green color, except when found on sandy bottoms, when they are quite red. Lobsters are generally boiled, causing the shell to turn red. 30
A lobster consists of body, tail, two large claws, and four pairs of small claws. On lower side of body, in front of large claws, are various small organs which surround the mouth, and a long and short pair of feelers. Under the tail are found several pairs of appendages. In the female lobster, also called hen lobster, is found, during the breeding season, the spawn, known as coral. Sex is determined by the pair of appendages in the tail which lie nearest the body; in the female they are soft and pliable, in the male hard and stiff. At one time small lobsters were taken in such quantities that it was feared, if the practice was long continued, they would be exterminated. To protect the continuance of lobster fisheries, a law has been passed in many States prohibiting their sale unless at least ten inches long. 31
Lobsters shed their shells at irregular intervals, when old ones are outgrown. The new ones begin to form and take on distinctive characteristics before the old ones are discarded. New shells after twenty-four hours’ exposure to the water are quite hard. 32
Lobsters, being coarse feeders (taking almost any animal substance attainable), are difficult of digestion, and with some create great gastric disturbance; notwithstanding, they are seldom found diseased. 33
To Select a Lobster. Take in the hand, and if heavy in proportion to its size, the lobster is fresh. Straighten the tail, and if it springs into place the lobster was alive (as it should have been) when put into the pot for boiling. There is greater shrinkage in lobsters than in any other fish. 34
To Open Lobsters. Take off large claws, small claws, and separate tail from body. Tail meat may sometimes be drawn out whole with a fork; more often it is necessary to cut the thin shell portion (using scissors or a canopener) in under part of the tail, then the tail meat may always be removed whole. Separate tail meat through centre, and remove the small intestinal vein which runs its entire length; although generally darker than the meat, it is sometimes found of the same color. Hold body shell firmly in left hand, and with first two fingers and thumb of right hand draw out the body, leaving in shell the stomach (known as the lady), which is not edible, and also some of the green part, the liver. The liver may be removed by shaking the shell. The sides of the body are covered with the lungs; these are always discarded. Break body through the middle and separate body bones, picking out meat that lies between them, which is some of the sweetest and tenderest to be found. Separate large claws at joints. If shells are thin, with a knife cut off a strip down the sharp edge, so that shell may be broken apart and meat removed whole. Where shell is thick, it must be broken with a mallet or hammer. Small claws are used for garnishing. The shell of body, tail, and lower part of large claws, if not broken, may be washed, dried, and used for serving of lobster meat after it has been prepared. The portions of lobsters which are not edible are lungs, stomach (lady), and intestinal vein. 35
Crabs among Crustaceans are next in importance to lobsters, commercially speaking. They are about two and one-half inches long by five inches wide, and are found along the Atlantic Coast from Massachusetts to Florida, and in the Gulf of Mexico. Crabs, like lobsters, change their shells. Soft-shell crabs are those which have recently shed their old shells, and the new shells have not had time to harden; these are considered by many a great luxury. Oyster crabs (very
small crabs found in shells with oysters) are a delicacy not often indulged in. Crabs are in season during the spring and summer. 36
Shrimps are found largely in our Southern waters, the largest and best coming from Lake Pontchartrain. They are about two inches long, covered with a thin shell, and are boiled and sent to market with heads removed. Their grayish color is changed to pink by boiling. Shrimps are in season from May first to October first, and are generally used for salads. Canned shrimps are much used and favorably known. 37
Reptiles. Frogs and terrapin belong to a lower order of animals than fish,—reptiles. They are both table delicacies, and are eaten by the few. 38
Only the hind legs of frogs are eaten, and have much the same flavor as chicken. 39
Terrapin, although sold in our large cities, specially belong to Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Washington, where they are cooked and served at their best. They are shipped from the South, packed in seaweed, and may be kept for some time in a dark place. Terrapin are found in both fresh and salt water. The Diamond Back, salt-water terrapin, coming from Chesapeake Bay, are considered the best, and command a very high price. Terrapin closely resembling Diamond Back, coming from Texas and Florida, are principally sold in our markets. Terrapin are in season from November to April, but are best in January, February, and March. They should always be cooked alive. 40
TO PREPARE FISH FOR COOKING
To Clean a Fish. Fish are cleaned and dressed at market as ordered, but need additional cleaning before cooking. Remove scales which have not been taken off. This is done by drawing a knife over fish, beginning at tail and working towards head, occasionally wiping knife and scales from fish. Incline knife slightly towards you to prevent scales from flying. The largest number of scales will be found on the flank. Wipe thoroughly inside and out with cloth wrung out of cold water, removing any clotted blood which may be found adhering to backbone. 41
Head and tail may or may not be removed, according to size of fish and manner of cooking. Small fish are generally served with head and tail left on. 42
To Skin a Fish. With sharp knife remove fins along the back and cut off a narrow strip of skin the entire length of back. Loosen skin on one side from bony part of gills, and being once started, if fish is fresh, it may be readily drawn off; if flesh is soft do not work too quickly, as it will be badly torn. By allowing knife to closely follow skin this may be avoided. After removing skin from one side, turn fish and skin the other side. 43
To Bone a Fish. Clean and skin before boning. Beginning at the tail, run a sharp knife under flesh close to backbone, and with knife follow bone (making as clean a cut as possible) its entire length, thus accomplishing the removal of one-half the flesh; turn, and remove flesh from other side. Pick out with fingers any small bones that may remain. Cod, haddock, halibut, and whitefish are easily and frequently boned; flounders and smelts occasionally. 44
To Fillet Fish. Clean, skin, and bone. A piece of fish, large or small, freed from skin and bones, is known as a fillet. Halibut, cut in three-fourths inch slices, is more often cut in fillets than any kind of fish, and fillets are frequently rolled. When flounder is cut in fillets it is served under the name of fillet of sole. Sole found in English waters is much esteemed, and flounder is our nearest approach to it. 45
WAYS OF COOKING FISH
To Cook Fish in Boiling Water. Small cod, haddock, or cusk are cooked whole in enough boiling water to cover, to which is added salt and lemon juice or vinegar. Salt gives flavor; lemon juice or vinegar keeps the flesh white. A long
fish-kettle containing a rack on which to place fish is useful but rather expensive. In place of fish-kettle, if the fish is not too large to be coiled in it, a frying-basket may be used placed in any kettle. 46
Large fish are cut in thick pieces for boiling, containing the number of pounds required. Examples: salmon and halibut. 47
Pieces cut from large fish for boiling should be cleaned and tied in a piece of cheesecloth to prevent scum being deposited on the fish. If skin is not removed before serving scald the dark skin and scrape to remove coloring; this may be easily accomplished by holding fish on two forks, and lowering into boiling water the part covered with black skin; then remove and scrape. Time required for boiling fish depends on extent of surface exposed to water. Consult Time-Table for Boiling, which will serve as a guide. The fish is cooked when flesh leaves the bone, no matter how long the time. 48
To Broil Fish. God, haddock, bluefish, and mackerel are split down the back and broiled whole, removing head and tail or not, as desired. Salmon, chicken halibut, and swordfish are cut in inch slices for broiling. Smelts and other small fish are broiled whole, without splitting. Clean and wipe fish as dry as possible, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and place in well-greased wire broiler. Slices of fish should be turned often while broiling; whole fish should be first broiled on flesh side, then turned and broiled on skin side just long enough to make skin brown and crisp. 49
To remove from broiler, loosen fish on one side, turn and loosen on other side; otherwise flesh will cling to broiler. Slip from broiler to hot platter, or place platter over fish and invert platter and broiler together. 50
To Bake Fish. Clean, and bake on a greased fish-sheet placed in a dripping-pan. If a fish-sheet is not at hand, place strips of cotton cloth under fish, by which it may be lifted from pan. 51
To Fry Fish. Clean fish, and wipe as dry as possible Sprinkle with salt, dip in flour or crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. 52
To Sauté Fish. Prepare as for frying, and cook in frying-pan with small amount of fat; or, if preferred, dip in granulated corn meal. Cod steak and smelts are often cooked in this way. 53
TABLE SHOWING COMPOSITION OF THE VARIOUS FISH USED FOR FOOD
Articles Refuse Proteid Fat Mineral matter Water
Bass, black 54.8 9.3 .8 .5 34.6
Bluefish 55.7 8.3 .5 .5 35.
Butterfish 42.8 10.2 6.3 .6 40.1
Cod, fresh 52.5 8. .2 .6 38.7
Cod, salt, boneless 22.2 .3 23.1 54.4
Cusk 40.3 10.1 .1 .5 49.
Eels 20.2 14.6 7.2 .8 57.2
Flounder 61.5 5.6 .3 .5 32.1
Haddock 51. 8.2 .2 .6 40.
Halibut, sections 17.7 15.1 4.4 .9 61.9
Herring 42.6 10.9 3.9 .9 41.7
Mackerel 44.6 10. 4.3 .7 40.4
Mackerel, Spanish 34.6 13.7 6.2 1. 44.5
Perch, white 62.5 7.2 1.5 .4 28.4
Pickerel 47.1 9.8 .2 .7 42.2
Pompano 45.5 10.2 4.3 .5 39.5
Red Snapper 46.1 10.6 .6 .7 42.
Salmon 39.2 12.4 8.1 .9 39.4
Shad 50.1 9.2 4.8 .7 35.2
Carbohydrates
Shad, roe 2.6 20.9 3.8 1.5 71.2
Refuse
Sheepshead 66. 6.4 .2 .5 26.9
Smelts 41.9 10. 1. 1. 46.1
Trout 48.1 9.8 1.1 .6 40.4
Turbot 47.7 6.8 7.5 .7 37.3
Whitefish 53.5 10.3 3. .7 32.5
Carbohydrates
Lobsters 61.7 5.9 .7 .8 .2 30.7
Clams, out of shell 10.6 1.1 2.3 5.2 80.8
Oysters, solid 6.1 1.4 .9 3.3 88.3
Crabs, soft shell 15.8 1.5 2. .7 80.
W. O. Atwater, Ph.D.
54
Boiled Haddock
Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Remove to a hot platter, garnish with slices of “hard-boiled” eggs and parsley, and serve with Egg Sauce. A thick piece of halibut may be boiled and served in the same way.
55
Boiled Salmon
Clean and boil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Place on a hot platter, remove skin, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley. Serve with Egg Sauce I or II, or Hollandaise Sauce.
56
Steamed Halibut, Silesian Sauce
Steam by cooking over boiling water a piece of halibut weighing two pounds, and serve with Silesian Sauce.
11/2 tablespoons vinegar Yolks 3 eggs
1/8 teaspoon powdered tarragon 2/3 cup Brown Stock
3 peppercorns 1/4 cup butter
Bit of bay leaf 1 tablespoon flour
Sprig of parsley 1/2 tablespoon capers
1/2 teaspoon finely chopped shallot 1/2 tablespoon parsley
Salt and cayenne
57
Cook first six ingredients until reduced one-half; strain, add yolks of eggs well beaten, one-half, each, brown stock and butter, and cook over hot water, stirring constantly until thickened. Then add, gradually, remaining butter mixed with flour and stock. As soon as mixture thickens, add capers, parsley finely chopped, and salt and cayenne. 58
Broiled Scrod
A young cod, split down the back, and backbone removed, except a small portion near the tail, is called a scrod. Scrod are usually broiled, spread with butter, and sprinkled with salt and pepper. Haddock is also so dressed.
59
Broiled Chicken Halibut
Clean and broil as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish. Spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and garnish with slices of lemon cut in fancy shapes and sprinkled with paprika and parsley.
60
Broiled Swordfish
Clean and broil fish, spread with butter, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve with Cucumber Sauce I, or Horseradish Sauce I.
61
Broiled Shad Roe
Wipe, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put on greased wire broiler, and broil five minutes on each side. Serve with Maître d’Hôtel Butter. Mackerel roe are delicious cooked in this way.
62
Broiled Pompano with Fricassee of Clams
Clean and broil fish as directed in Ways of Cooking Fish . When nearly cooked, slip from broiler onto a hot platter and brush over with melted butter. Surround with two borders of mashed potatoes, one-inch apart, forced through a pastry bag and tube. Arrange ten halves of clam-shells between potato borders, at equal distances; fill spaces between shells with potato roses. Place in oven to finish cooking fish and to brown potatoes. Just before serving, fill clam-shells with
63
Fricassee of Clams. Clean one pint clams, finely chop hard portions and reserve soft portions. Melt two tablespoons butter, add chopped clams, two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream. Strain sauce, add soft part of clams, cook one minute, season with salt and cayenne, and add yolk of one egg slightly beaten. 64
Baked Haddock with Stuffing
Clean a four-pound haddock, sprinkle with salt inside and out, stuff, and sew. Cut five diagonal gashes on each side of backbone and insert narrow strips of fat salt pork, having gashes on one side come between gashes on other side. Shape with skewers in form of letter S, and fasten skewers with small twine. Place on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter, dredge with flour, and place around fish small pieces of fat salt pork. Bake one hour in hot oven, basting as soon as fat is tried out, and continue basting every ten minutes. Serve with Drawn Butter, Egg, or Hollandaise Sauce. Garnish with lemon and parsley.
65
Fish Stuffing I
1/2 cup cracker crumbs=4 crackers 1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/4 cup melted butter Few drops onion juice
1/4 cup hot water
Mix ingredients in order given.
66
Fish Stuffing II
1 cup cracker crumbs Few drops onion juice
1/4 cup melted butter Parsley 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon salt Capers 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
1/8 teaspoon pepper Pickles 1 teaspoon each, finely chopped
Mix ingredients in order given. This makes a dry, crumbly stuffing.
67
Baked Bluefish
Clean a four-pound bluefish, stuff, sew, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing, omitting to cut gashes on sides, as the fish is rich enough without
addition of pork. Baste often with one-third cup butter melted in two-thirds cup boiling water. Serve with Shrimp Sauce.
68
Breslin Baked Bluefish
Split and bone a bluefish, place on a well-buttered sheet, and cook twenty minutes in a hot oven. Cream one-fourth cup butter, add yolks two eggs, and when well mixed add two tablespoons, each, onion, capers, pickles, and parsley, finely chopped; two tablespoons lemon juice, one tablespoon vinegar, one-half teaspoon salt, and one-third teaspoon paprika. Sprinkle fish with salt, spread with mixture, and continue the baking until fish is done. Remove to serving-dish and garnish with potato balls, cucumber ribbons, lemon cut in fancy shapes, and parsley.
69
Bluefish à l’Italienne
Clean a four-pound bluefish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put on buttered fish-sheet in a dripping-pan. Add three tablespoons white wine, three tablespoons mushroom liquor, one-half onion finely chopped, eight mushrooms finely chopped, and enough water to allow sufficient liquor in pan for basting. Bake forty-five minutes in hot oven, basting five times. Serve with Sauce à l’Italienne.
70
Baked Cod with Oyster Stuffing
Clean a four-pound cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with lemon juice, stuff, and sew. Gash, skewer, and bake as Baked Halibut with Stuffing. Serve with Oyster Sauce.
71
Oyster Stuffing
1 cup cracker crumbs 11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 cup melted butter 1/2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper 1 cup oysters
Add seasonings and butter to cracker crumbs. Clean oysters, and remove tough muscles; add soft parts to mixture, with two tablespoons oyster liquor to moisten.
72
Baked Haddock with Oyster Stuffing
Remove skin, head, and tail from a four-pound haddock. Bone, leaving in large bones near head, to keep fillets in shape of the original fish. Sprinkle with salt, and brush over with lemon juice. Lay one fillet on greased fish-sheet in a dripping-pan, cover thickly with oysters, cleaned and dipped in buttered cracker crumbs seasoned with salt and pepper. Cover oysters with other fillet, brush with egg slightly beaten, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with Hollandaise Sauce I. Allow one pint oysters and one cup cracker crumbs.
73
Baked Halibut with Tomato Sauce
2 lbs. halibut 1/2 tablespoon sugar
2 cups tomatoes 3 tablespoons butter
1 cup water 3 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion 3/4 teaspoon salt
3 cloves 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Cook twenty minutes tomatoes, water, onion, cloves, and sugar. Melt butter, add flour, and stir into hot mixture. Add salt and pepper, cook ten minutes, and strain. Clean fish, put in baking-pan, pour around half the sauce, and bake thirty-five minutes, basting often. Remove to hot platter, pour around remaining sauce, and garnish with parsley.
74
Baked Halibut with Lobster Sauce
Clean a piece of halibut weighing three pounds. Cut gashes in top, and insert a narrow strip of fat salt pork in each gash. Place in dripping-pan on fish-sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Cover bottom of pan with water, add sprig of parsley, slice of onion, two slices carrot cut in pieces, and bit of bay leaf. Bake one hour, basting with one-fourth cup butter and the liquor in pan. Serve with Lobster Sauce.
75
Hollenden Halibut
Arrange six thin slices fat salt pork two and one-half inches square in a dripping-pan. Cover with one small onion, thinly sliced, and add a bit of bay leaf. Wipe a two-pound piece of chicken halibut and place over pork and onion. Mask with three tablespoons butter creamed and mixed with three tablespoons flour. Cover with three-fourths cup buttered cracker crumbs and arrange thin strips of fat salt pork over crumbs. Cover with buttered paper and bake fifty minutes in a moderate oven, removing paper during the last fifteen minutes of the cooking to brown crumbs. Remove to hot serving dish and garnish with slices of lemon cut in fancy shapes sprinkled with finely chopped parsley and paprika. Serve with White Sauce II, using fat in pan in place of butter.
76
Baked Mackerel
Split fish, clean, and remove head and tail. Put in buttered dripping-pan, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dot over with butter (allowing one tablespoon to a medium-sized fish), and pour over two-thirds cup milk. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven.
77
Planked Shad or Whitefish
Clean and split a three-pound shad. Put skin side down on a buttered oak plank one inch thick, and a little longer and wider than the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with melted butter. Bake twenty-five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, spread with butter, and garnish with parsley and lemon. The fish should be sent to the table on plank. Planked Shad is well cooked in a gas range having the flame over the fish.
78
The Planked Whitefish of the Great Lakes has gained much favor. 79
Planked Shad with Creamed Roe
Select a roe shad and prepare same as Planked Shad. Parboil roe in salted, acidulated water twenty minutes. Remove outside membrane, and mash. Melt three tablespoons butter, add one teaspoon finely chopped shallot, and cook five minutes; add roe, sprinkle with one and one-half tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one-third cup cream. Cook slowly five minutes, add two egg yolks and season highly with salt, pepper, and lemon juice. Remove shad from oven, spread thin part with roe mixture, cover with buttered crumbs, and return to oven to brown crumbs. Garnish with mashed potatoes forced through a pastry bag and tube, small tomatoes, slices of lemon and parsley.
80
Planked Haddock
Skin and bone a haddock, leaving meat in two fillets. Remove to buttered plank, sprinkle with salt and pepper, brush over with melted butter and bake thirty minutes. Garnish with mashed potatoes, outlining the original shape of the fish, making as prominent as possible head, tail, and fins. Bake until potatoes are well browned, when fish should be thoroughly cooked. Finish garnishing with parsley and slices of lemon sprinkled with finely chopped parsley.
81
Baked Stuffed Smelts
Clean and wipe as dry as possible twelve selected smelts. Stuff, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Place in buttered shallow plate, cover with buttered paper, and bake five minutes in hot oven. Remove from oven, sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. Serve with Sauce Bearnaise.
82
Stuffing. Cook one tablespoon finely chopped onion with one tablespoon butter three minutes. Add one-fourth cup finely chopped mushrooms, one-fourth cup soft part of oysters (parboiled, drained, and chopped), one-half teaspoon chopped parsley, three tablespoons Thick White Sauce, and one-half cup Fish Force-meat. 83
Smelts à la Langtry
Split and bone eight selected smelts. Cut off tails, and from tail ends of fish turn meat over one inch onto flesh side. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Garnish with Fish Force-meat forced through a pastry bag and tube, and fasten heads with skewers to keep in an upright position. Arrange in a buttered pan, and pour around white wine. Cover with buttered paper, and bake from fifteen to twenty minutes. Just before taking from oven, sprinkle with lobster coral forced through a strainer. Serve with Aurora Sauce.
84
Aurora Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually one and one-half cups cream and one tablespoon meat extract. Season with salt and cayenne, and add lobster coral and one-half cup lobster dice. 85
Baked Shad Roe with Tomato Sauce
Cook shad roe fifteen minutes in boiling salted water to cover, with one-half tablespoon vinegar; drain, cover with cold water, and let stand five minutes. Remove from cold water, and place on buttered pan with three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce I or II. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven, basting every five minutes. Remove to a platter, and pour around three-fourths cup Tomato Sauce.
86
Baked Fillets of Bass or Halibut
Cut bass or halibut into small fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put into a shallow pan, cover with buttered paper, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Arrange on a rice border, garnish with parsley, and serve with Hollandaise Sauce II.
87
Fillets of Halibut with Brown Sauce
Cut a slice of halibut weighing one and one-half pounds in eight short fillets, sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in greased pan, and bake five minutes; drain,
pour over one and one-half cups Brown Sauce I, cover with one-half cup buttered cracker crumbs, and bake.
88
Fillets of Haddock, White Wine Sauce
Skin a three and one-half pound haddock, and cut in fillets. Arrange in buttered baking-pan, pour around fish three tablespoons melted butter, three-fourths cup white wine to which has been added one-half tablespoon lemon juice, and two slices onion. Cover and bake. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two tablespoons flour, and pour on liquor drained from fish; then add one-half cup Fish Stock (made from head, tail, and bones of fish), two tablespoons heavy cream, yolks two eggs, salt, and pepper. Remove fillets to serving dish, pour over sauce strained through cheesecloth, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
89
Halibut à la Poulette
A slice of halibut, weighing 11/2 lbs. 1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons lemon juice
1/4 cup melted butter Few drops onion juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
Clean fish and cut in eight fillets. Add seasonings to melted butter, and put dish containing butter in saucepan of hot water to keep butter melted. Take up each fillet separately with a fork, dip in butter, roll and fasten with a small wooden skewer. Put in a shallow pan, dredge with flour, and bake twelve minutes in hot oven. Remove skewers, arrange on platter for serving, pour around one and one-half cups Béchamel Sauce, and garnish with yolks of two hard-boiled eggs rubbed through a strainer, whites of hard-boiled eggs cut in strips, lemon cut fan-shaped, and parsley.
90
Moulded Fish, Normandy Sauce
Remove skin and bones from a thick piece of halibut, finely chop fish, and force through a sieve (there should be one and one-third cups). Pound in mortar, adding gradually whites two eggs. Add one and one-fourth cups heavy cream, and salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Turn into a buttered fish-mould, cover with buttered paper, set in pan of hot water, and bake until fish is firm. Turn on serving dish and surround with
91
Normandy Sauce. Cook skin and bones of fish with three slices carrot, one slice onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water, thirty minutes, and strain; there should be one cup. Melt two tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, fish stock, one-third cup heavy cream. Bring to boiling point and add yolks two eggs. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne, and one tablespoon Sauterne. 92
Halibut à la Martin
Clean two slices chicken halibut and cut into eight fillets. Season with salt, brush over with lemon juice and roll. Arrange on a tin plate covered with cheesecloth, fold cheesecloth over fillets, and cook in steamer fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, garnish with small shrimps, and pour around sauce, following directions for Normandy Sauce, omitting Sauterne, and seasoning to taste with grated cheese and Madeira.
93
Fillets of Fish à la Bement
Prepare and cook fish same as for Halibut à la Martin. Insert tip of small lobster claw in each fillet, and garnish with a thin slice of canned mushroom sprinkled with parsley and a thin circular slice of truffle. Serve with
94
Lobster Sauce III. Remove meat from a one and one-half pound lobster and cut claw meat in cubes. Cover remaining meat and body bones with cold water. Add one-half small onion, sprig of parsley, bit of bay leaf, and one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and cook until stock is reduced to one cup. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the stock; then add one-half cup heavy cream and yolks two eggs. Season with salt, lemon juice, and paprika; then add lobster cubes. 95
Halibut à la Rarebit
Sprinkle two small slices halibut with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; then brush over with melted butter, place in dripping-pan on greased fish-sheet, and bake twelve minutes. Remove to hot platter for serving, and pour over it a Welsh Rarebit.
96
Sandwiches of Chicken Halibut
Cut chicken halibut in thin fillets. Put together in pairs, with Fish or Chicken Force-meat between, first dipping fillets in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper and brushing over with lemon juice. Place in shallow pan with one-fourth cup white wine. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Arrange on hot platter for serving, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley, garnish with Tomato Jelly, and serve with Hollandaise Sauce.
97
Sole à la Bercy
Skin and bone two large flounders, and cut into eight fillets. Put into a buttered pan, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, and add one-fourth cup white wine. Cover and cook fifteen minutes. Remove to serving dish, pour over Bercy Sauce, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
98
Bercy Sauce. Fry one tablespoon finely chopped shallot in one tablespoon butter five minutes; add two tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually the liquor left in pan with enough White Stock to make one cup. Add two tablespoons butter, and salt and cayenne to taste. 99
Halibut au Lit
Wipe two slices chicken halibut, each weighing three-fourths pound. Cut one piece in eight fillets, sprinkle with salt and lemon juice, roll and fasten with small wooden skewers. Cook over boiling water. Cut remaining slice in pieces about the size and shape of scallops. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Arrange a steamed fillet in centre of each fish-plate, place on top of each a cooked mushroom cap, and put fried fish at both right and left of fillet. Serve with Mushroom Sauce, and garnish with watercress and radishes cut in fancy shapes.
100
Mushroom Sauce. Melt three tablespoons butter, add three tablespoons flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, one cup Fish Stock. When boiling-point is reached, add one-half cup cream, three mushroom caps, sliced, and one tablespoon Sauterne. Season with salt and pepper. The Fish Stock should be made from skin and bones of halibut. The mushroom caps on fillets should be cooked in sauce until soft. 101
Fried Cod Steaks
Clean steaks, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dip in granulated corn meal. Try out slices of fat salt pork in frying-pan, remove scraps, and sauté steaks in fat.
102
Fried Smelts
Clean smelts, leaving on heads and tails. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and crumbs, and fry three to four minutes in deep fat. As soon as smelts are put into fat, remove fat to back of range so that they may not become too brown before cooked through. Arrange on hot platter, garnish with parsley, lemon, and fried gelatine. Serve with Sauce Tartare.
103
Smelts are fried without being skewered, but often are skewered in variety of shapes. 104
To fry gelatine. Take up a few shreds and drop in hot, deep fat; it will immediately swell and become white; it should at once be removed with a skimmer, then drained. 105
Phosphated or granulated gelatine cannot be used for frying. 106
Smelts â la Meniére
Clean six selected smelts, and cut five diagonal gashes on each side. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice, cover, and let stand ten minutes. Roll in cream, dip in flour, and sauté in butter. Add to butter in pan two tablespoons flour, one cup White Stock, one and one-third teaspoons Anchovy Essence, and a few drops lemon juice. Just before sauce is poured around smelts, add one add one-half tablespoons butter and one teaspoon finely chopped parsley.
107
Fried Fillets of Halibut or Flounder
Clean fish and cut in long or short fillets. If cut in long fillets, roll, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Sprinkle fillets with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve with Sauce Tartare.
108
Fried Fish, Russian Style, Mushroom Sauce
Cut two slices chicken halibut in fillets, sprinkle fillets with salt and pepper, pour over one-third cup white wine, cover, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip each piece separately in heavy cream, then in flour, and fry in deep fat. Cook skin and bones removed from fish with five slices carrot, two slices onion, sprig parsley, bit of bay leaf, one-fourth teaspoon peppercorns, and two cups cold water until reduced to one cup liquid. Make sauce of two tablespoons butter, three tablespoons flour, the fish stock, and one-third cup heavy cream. Add yolks two eggs, salt, pepper, cayenne, and white wine to taste.
109
Arrange fish on serving dish, cover with one-half pound mushroom caps cleaned, then sautéd in butter, and pour over sauce. 110
Fried Eels
Clean eels, cut in two-inch pieces, and parboil eight minutes. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in corn meal, and sauté in pork fat.
111
Fried Stuffed Smelts
Smelts are stuffed as for Baked Stuffed Smelts, dipped in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fried in deep fat, and served with Sauce Tartare.
112
Fried Shad Roe
Parboil and cook shad roe as for Baked Shad Roe. Cut in pieces, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and brush over with lemon juice. Dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain.
113
Soft-shell Crabs.
Clean crabs, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain. Being light, they will rise to top of fat, and should be turned while frying. Soft-shell crabs are usually fried. Serve with Sauce Tartare.
114
To Clean a Crab. Lift and fold back the tapering points which are found on each side of the back shell, and remove spongy substance that lies under them. Turn crab on its back, and with a pointed knife remove the small piece at lower part of shell, which terminates in a point; this is called the apron. 115
Frogs’ Hind Legs
Trim and clean. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dip in crumbs, egg, and crumbs again, then fry three minutes in deep fat, and drain.
116
Terrapin
To prepare terrapin for cooking, plunge into boiling water and boil five minutes. Lift out of water with skimmer, and remove skin from feet and tail by rubbing with a towel. Draw out head with a skewer, and rub off skin.
117
To Cook Terrapin. Put in a kettle, cover with boiling salted water, add two slices each of carrot and onion, and a stalk of celery. Cook until meat is tender, which may be determined by pressing feet-meat between thumb and finger. The time required will be from thirty-five to forty minutes. Remove from water, cool, draw out nails from feet, cut under shell close to upper shell and remove. Empty upper shell and carefully remove and discard gall-bladder, sand-bags, and thick, heavy part of intestines. Any of the gall-bladder would give a bitter flavor to the dish. The liver, small intestines, and eggs are used with the meat. 118
Terrapin à la Baltimore
1 terrapin Cayenne
3/4 cup White Stock 11/2 tablespoons butter
11/2 tablespoons wine Salt and pepper
Yolks 2 eggs
To stock and wine add terrapin meat, with bones cut in pieces and entrails cut in smaller pieces; then cook slowly until liquor is reduced one-half. Add liver separated in pieces, eggs, butter, salt, pepper, and cayenne.
119
Terrapin à la Maryland
Add to Terrapin â la Baltimore one tablespoon each butter and flour creamed together, one-half cup cream, yolks two eggs slightly beaten, and one teaspoon lemon juice; then add, just before serving, one tablespoon Sherry wine. Pour in a deep dish and garnish with toast or puff-paste points.
120
Washington Terrapin
1 terrapin 1/2 cup chopped mushrooms
11/2 tablespoons butter Salt
11/2 tablespoons flour Few grains cayenne
1 cup cream 2 eggs
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Melt the butter, add flour, and pour on slowly the cream. Add terrapin meat with bones cut in pieces, entrails cut smaller, liver separated in pieces, eggs of terrapin, and mushrooms. Season with salt and cayenne. Just before serving, add eggs slightly beaten and two tablespoons Sherry wine.
121
WAYS OF USING REMNANTS OF COOKED FISH
Fish à la Créme
13/4 cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk) Sprig of parsley
1/2 slice onion
Salt and pepper
1 cup White Sauce I 1/2 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Bit of bay leaf
Scald milk, for the making of White Sauce, with bay leaf, parsley, and onion. Cover the bottom of small buttered platter with one-half of the fish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and pour over one-half the sauce; repeat. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown. Fish à la crême, baked in scallop shells, makes an attractive luncheon dish, or may be served for a fish course at dinner.
122
Turban of Fish
21/2 cups cold flaked fish (cod, haddock, halibut, or cusk) 1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
11/2 cups milk 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 slice onion 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Blade of mace Lemon juice
Sprig of parsley Yolks 2 eggs
2/3 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Scald milk with onion, mace, and parsley; remove seasonings. Melt butter, add flour, salt, pepper, and gradually the milk; then add eggs, slightly beaten. Put a layer of fish on buttered dish, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and add a few drops of lemon juice. Cover with sauce, continuing until fish and sauce are used, shaping in pyramid form. Cover with crumbs, and bake in hot oven until crumbs are brown.
123
Fish Hash
Take equal parts of cold flaked fish and cold boiled potatoes finely chopped. Season with salt and pepper. Try out fat salt pork, remove scraps, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.
124
Fish Croquettes
To one and one-half cups cold flaked halibut or salmon add one cup thick White Sance. Season with salt and pepper, and spread on a plate to cool. Shape, roll in crumbs, egg, and crumbs, and fry in deep fat; drain, arrange on hot dish for serving, and garnish with parsley. If salmon is used, add lemon juice and finely chopped parsley.
125
Fish and Egg Croquettes
Make same as Fish Croquettes, using one cup fish and three “hard-boiled” eggs finely chopped.
126
Scalloped Cod
Line a buttered baking-dish with cold flaked cod, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with a layer of oysters (first dipped in melted butter, seasoned with onion juice, lemon juice, and a few grains of cayenne, and then in cracker crumbs), add three tablespoons oyster liquor; repeat, and cover with buttered cracker crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven. Serve with Egg or Hollandaise Sauce I.
127
Salmon Box
Line a bread pan, slightly buttered, with warm steamed rice. Fill the centre with cold boiled salmon, flaked, and seasoned with salt, pepper, and a slight grating of nutmeg. Cover with rice and steam one hour. Turn on a hot platter for serving, and pour around Egg Sauce II.
128
WAYS OF COOKING SALT FISH
Creamed Salt Codfish
Pick salt codfish in pieces (there should be three-fourths cup), and soak in lukewarm water, the time depending upon hardness and saltness of the fish. Drain, and add one cup White Sauce I. Add one beaten egg just before sending to table. Garnish with slices of hard-boiled eggs. Creamed Codfish is better made with cream slightly thickened in place of White Sauce.
129
Fish Balls
1 cup salt codfish 1 egg
2 heaping cups potatoes 1/2 tablespoon butter
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Wash fish in cold water, and pick in very small pieces, or cut, using scissors. Wash, pare, and soak potatoes, cutting in pieces of uniform size before measuring. Cook fish and potatoes in boiling water to cover until potatoes are soft. Drain thoroughly through strainer, return to kettle in which they were cooked, mash thoroughly (being sure there are no lumps left in potato), add butter, egg well beaten, and pepper. Beat with a fork two minutes. Add salt if necessary. Take up by spoonfuls, put in frying-basket, and fry one minute in deep fat, allowing six fish balls for each frying; drain on brown paper. Reheat the fat after each frying.
130
Salted Codfish Hash
Prepare as for Fish Balls, omitting egg. Try out fat salt pork, remove scrap, leaving enough fat in pan to moisten fish and potatoes. Put in fish and potatoes, stir until heated, then cook until well browned underneath; fold, and turn like an omelet.
131
Toasted Salt Fish
Pick salt codfish in long thin strips. If very salt, it may need to be freshened by standing for a short time in lukewarm water. Place on a greased wire broiler, and broil until brown on one side; turn, and brown the other. Remove to platter, and spread with butter.
132
Kippered Herrings
Remove fish from can, and arrange on a platter that may be put in the oven; sprinkle with pepper, brush over with lemon juice and melted butter, and pour over the liquor left in can. Heat thoroughly, and garnish with parsley and slices of lemon.
133
Baked Finnan Haddie
Put fish in dripping-pan, surround with milk and water in equal proportions, place on back of range, where it will heat slowly. Let stand twenty-five minutes; pour off liquid, spread with butter, and bake twenty-five minutes.
134
Broiled Finnan Haddie
Broil in a greased broiler until brown on both sides. Remove to a pan, and cover with hot water; let stand ten minutes, drain, and place on a platter. Spread with butter, and sprinkle with pepper.
135
Finnan Haddie à la Delmonico
Cut fish in strips (there should be one cup), put in baking-pan, cover with cold water, place on back of range and allow water to heat to boiling-point; let stand on range, keeping water below boiling-point for twenty-five minutes, drain, and rinse thoroughly. Separate fish into flakes, add one-half cup heavy cream and four “hard-boiled” eggs thinly sliced. Season with cayenne, add one tablespoon butter, and sprinkle with finely chopped parsley.
136
WAYS OF COOKING SHELLFISH
Oysters on the Half Shell
Serve oysters on deep halves of the shells, allowing six to each person. Arrange on plates of crushed ice, with one-fourth of a lemon in the centre of each plate.
137
Raw Oysters
Raw oysters are served on oyster plates, or in a block of ice. Place block of ice on a folded napkin on platter, and garnish the base with parsley and quarters of lemon, or ferns and lemon.
138
To Block Ice for Oysters. Use a rectangular piece of clear ice, and with hot flatirons melt a cavity large enough to hold the oysters. Pour water from cavity as rapidly as it forms. 139
Oyster Cocktail I
8 small raw oysters 2 drops Tabasco
1 tablespoon tomato catsup Salt
1/2 tablespoon vinegar or lemon juice 1 teaspoon celery, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Mix ingredients, chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses, or cases made from green peppers placed on a bed of crushed ice.
140
Oyster Cocktail II
6 small raw oysters Lemon juice
Tabasco Sauce Salt
Grape fruit
Cut grape fruit in halves crosswise, remove tough portions, and add oysters seasoned with Tabasco, lemon juice, and salt.
141
Oyster Cocktail III
Allow seven Blue Point oysters to each person, and season with three-fourth tablespoon lemon juice, one-half tablespoon tomato catsup, one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot, three drops Tabasco sauce, few gratings horseradish root, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly and serve in cocktail glasses. Sprinkle with finely chopped celery and garnish with small pieces of red and green pepper.
142
Roasted Oysters
Oysters for roasting should be bought in the shell. Wash thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush. Put in a dripping-pan, and cook in a hot oven until shells part. Open, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and serve in the deep halves of the shells.
143
Oysters à la Ballard
Arrange oysters on the half shell in a dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until edges curl. Allow six to each serve, pouring over the following sauce:
144
Mix three-fourths tablespoon melted butter, three-fourths teaspoon each lemon juice and Sauterne, few drops Tabasco, one-fourth teaspoon finely chopped parsley, and salt and paprika to taste. Before putting ingredients in bowl, rub inside of bowl with a clove of garlic. 145
Panned Oysters
Clean one pint large oysters. Place in dripping-pan small oblong pieces of toast, put an oyster on each piece, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and bake until oysters are plump. Serve with Lemon Butter.
146
Lemon Butter. Cream three tablespoons butter, add one-half teaspoon salt, one tablespoon lemon juice, and a few grains cayenne. 147
Fancy Roast
Clean one pint oysters and drain from their liquor. Put in a stewpan and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl. Shake pan to prevent oysters from adhering to pan, or stir with a fork. Season with salt, pepper, and two tablespoons butter, and pour over four small slices of toast. Garnish with toast points and parsley.
148
Oyster Fricassee
1 pint oysters 1/4 teaspoon salt
Milk or cream Few grains cayenne
2 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon finely chopped parsley
2 tablespoons flour
1 egg
Clean oysters, heat oyster liquor to boiling-point, and strain through double thickness of cheese-cloth; add oysters to liquor and cook until plump. Remove oysters with skimmer and add enough cream to liquor to make a cupful. Melt
butter, add flour, and pour on gradually hot liquid; add salt, cayenne, parsley, oysters, and egg slightly beaten.
149
Creamed Oysters
1 pint oysters 11/2 cups White Sauce II
1/8 teaspoon celery salt
Clean, and cook oysters until plump and edges begin to curl; drain, and add to White Sauce seasoned with celery salt. Serve on toast, in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents. One-fourth cup sliced mushrooms are often added to Creamed Oysters.
150
Oysters in Brown Sauce
1 pint oysters 1/2 cup milk
1/4 cup butter 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup flour 1 teaspoon anchovy sauce
1 cup oyster liquor 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Parboil and drain oysters, reserve liquor, heat, strain, and set aside for sauce. Brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then add oyster liquor, milk, seasonings, and oysters. For filling patty cases or vol-au-vents.
151
Savory Oysters
1 pint of oysters 1/2 cup Brown Stock
4 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
4 tablespoons flour Few drops onion juice
1 cup oyster liquor Salt
Pepper
Clean oysters, parboil, and drain. Melt butter, add flour, and stir until well browned. Pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor and stock. Add seasonings and oysters. Serve on toast, in timbale cases, patty shells, or vol-au-vents.
152
Oysters à la Astor
1 pint oysters 11/2 teaspoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons butter 11/2 teaspoons vinegar
1 teaspoon finely chopped shallot 1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
1 tablespoon finely cut red pepper
2 tablespoons flour 1/2 teaspoon beef extract
Salt and paprika
Wash and pick over oysters, parboil, drain, and to liquor add enough water to make one cup liquid; then strain through cheese-cloth. Cook butter, shallot, and pepper three minutes, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Add seasonings and oysters. Remove oysters to small pieces of bread sautéd in butter on one side. Pour sauce over oysters and garnish with thin slices of cucumber pickles.
153
Broiled Oysters
1 pint selected oysters 1/4 cup melted butter
2/3 cup seasoned cracker crumbs
Clean oysters and dry between towels. Lift with plated fork by the tough muscle and dip in butter, then in cracker crumbs which have been seasoned with salt and pepper. Place in a buttered wire broiler and broil over a clear fire until
juices flow, turning while broiling. Serve with or without Maître d’Hôtel Butter.
154
Oyster Toast
Serve Broiled Oysters on small pieces of Milk Toast. Sprinkle with finely chopped celery.
155
Oysters and Macaroni
1 pint oysters Salt and pepper
3/4 cup macaroni broken in Flour
1 inch pieces 1/2 cup buttered crumbs
1/4 cup butter
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and rinse with cold water. Put a layer in bottom of a buttered pudding-dish, cover with oysters, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and dot over with one-half of the butter; repeat, and cover with buttered crumbs. Bake twenty minutes in hot oven.
156
Scalloped Oysters
1 pint oysters 1 cup cracker crumbs
4 tablespoons oyster liquor 1/2 cup melted butter
2 tablespoons milk or cream Salt
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs Pepper
Mix bread and cracker crumbs, and stir in butter. Put a thin layer in bottom of a buttered shallow baking-dish, cover with oysters, and sprinkle with salt and pepper; add one-half half each oyster liquor and cream. Repeat, and cover top with remaining crumbs. Bake thirty minutes in hot oven. Never allow more than two layers of oysters for Scalloped Oysters; if three layers are used, the middle layer will be underdone, while others are properly cooked. A sprinkling of mace or grated nutmeg to each layer is considered by many an improvement. Sherry wine may be used in place of cream.
157
Sautéd Oysters
Clean one pint oysters, sprinkle on both sides with salt and pepper. Take up by the tough muscle with plated fork and dip in seasoned cracker crumbs. Put two tablespoons butter in hot frying-pan, add oysters, brown on one side, then turn and brown on the other.
158
Oysters with Bacon
Clean oysters, wrap a thin slice of bacon around each, and fasten with small wooden skewers. Put in a broiler, place broiler over dripping-pan, and bake in a hot oven until bacon is crisp and brown, turning broiler once during the cooking. Drain on brown paper.
159
Fried Oysters
Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Season with salt and pepper, dip in flour, egg, and cracker or stale bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat. Drain on brown paper and serve on a folded napkin. Garnish with parsley and serve with or without Sauce Tyrolienne.
160
Fried Oysters in Batter
Clean, and dry between towels, selected oysters. Dip in batter, fry in deep fat, drain, and serve on a folded napkin; garnish with lemon and parsley. Oysters may be parboiled, drained, and then fried.
161
Batter
2 eggs 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 teaspoon salt 1 cup bread flour
3/4 cup milk
Beat eggs until light, add salt and pepper. Add milk slowly to flour, stir until smooth and well mixed. Combine mixtures.
162
Fried Oysters. Philadelphia Relish
Follow directions for Fried Oysters. Serve with Philadelphia Relish.
2 cups cabbage, finely shredded 1/4 teaspoon mustard seed
2 green peppers, finely chopped 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon celery seed 2 tablespoons brown sugar
1/4 cup vinegar
Mix ingredients in order given.
163
Little Neck Clams
Little Neck Clams are served raw on the half shell, in same manner as raw oysters.
164
Steamed Clams
Clams for steaming should be bought in the shell and always be alive. Wash clams thoroughly, scrubbing with a brush, changing the water several times. Put into a large kettle, allowing one-half cup hot water to four quarts clams; cover closely, and steam until shells partially open, care being taken that they are not overdone. Serve with individual dishes of melted butter. Some prefer a few drops of lemon juice or vinegar added to the butter. If a small quantity of boiling water is put into the dishes, the melted butter will float on top and remain hot much longer.
165
Roasted Clams
Roasted clams are served at Clam Bakes. Clams are washed in sea-water, placed on stones which have been previously heated by burning wood on them, ashes removed, and stones sprinkled with thin layer of seaweed. Clams are piled on stones, covered with seaweed, and a piece of canvas thrown over them to retain the steam.
166
Clams, Union League
Fry one-half teaspoon finely chopped shallot in one and one-half tablespoons butter five minutes; add eighteen clams and one-half cup white wine. Cook until the shells open. Remove clams from shells and reduce liquor to one-third cupful. Melt two tablespoons butter, add two table- spoons flour, and pour on gradually the clam liquor; add one-fourth cup cream and the clams, season with salt and pepper. Refill clam-shells, sprinkle with chopped parsley, and serve on each a square piece of fried bacon.
167
Clams à la Grand Union
Clean and dry selected clams, dip in batter, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. Serve on small slices of cream toast, seasoned with salt, celery salt, pepper, and cayenne.
168
Batter. Mix and sift one cup bread flour, one-half teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Add gradually two-thirds cup milk, and two eggs well beaten. 169
Fried Scallops
Clean one quart scallops; drain, and dry between towels. Season with salt and pepper, dip in egg and crumbs, and fry two minutes in deep fat; then drain on brown paper.
170
Plain Lobster
Remove lobster meat from shell, arrange on platter, and garnish with small claws. If two lobsters are opened, stand tail shells (put together) in center of platter, and arrange meat around them.
171
Lobster Cocktail
Allow one-fourth cup lobster meat, cut in pieces, for each cocktail, and season with two tablespoons, each, tomato catsup and Sherry wine, one tablespoon lemon juice, six drops Tabasco Sauce, one-eighth teaspoon finely chopped chives, and salt to taste. Chill thoroughly, and serve in cocktail glasses.
172
Fried Lobster
Remove lobster meat from shell. Use tail meat, divided in fourths, and large pieces of claw meat. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and lemon juice; dip in crumbs, egg, and again in crumbs; fry in deep fat, drain, and serve with Sauce Tartare.
173
Buttered Lobster
2 1b. lobster Salt and pepper
3 tablespoons butter Lemon juice
Remove lobster meat from shell and chop slightly. Melt butter, add lobster, and when heated, season and serve garnished with lobster claws.
174
Scalloped Lobster
2 1b. lobster 1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 cups White Sauce II Few grains cayenne
2 teaspoons lemon juice
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in cubes. Heat in White Sauce and add seasonings. Refill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. To prevent lobster shells from curling over lobster while baking, insert small wooden skewers of sufficient length to keep shell in its original shape. To assist in preserving color of shell, brush over with olive oil before putting into oven. Scalloped lobster may be baked in buttered scallop shells, or in a buttered baking dish.
175
Devilled Lobster
Scalloped lobster highly seasoned is served as Devilled Lobster. Use larger proportions of same seasonings, with the addition of mustard.
176
Curried Lobster
Prepare as Scalloped Lobster, adding to flour one-half teaspoon curry powder when making White Sauce.
177
Lobster Farci
1 cup chopped lobster meat Slight grating nutmeg
Yolks 2 “hard-boiled” eggs 1/3 cup buttered crumbs
1/2 tablespoon chopped parsley Salt
1 cup White Sauce I Pepper
To lobster meat add yolks of eggs rubbed to a paste, parsley, sauce, and seasonings to taste. Fill lobster shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.
178
Lobster and Oyster Filling
(For Patties or Vol-au-Vent)
1 pint oysters 1/4 cup butter
11/4 1b. lobster 1/3 cup flour
11/2 cups cold water 3/4 cup cream
1 stalk celery Worcestershire Sauce
1 slice onion Lemon juice
Salt Paprika
Clean and parboil oysters; drain, and add to liquor body bones and tough claw meat from lobster, water, celery, and onion. Cook slowly until stock is reduced to one cup, and strain. Make sauce of butter, flour, strained stock, and cream. Add oysters and lobster meat cut in strips; then add seasonings. One-half teaspoon beef extract is an improvement to this dish.
179
Fricassee of Lobster and Mushrooms
2 1b. lobster 1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup butter 11/2 cups milk
3/4 1b. mushrooms Salt
Few drops onion juice Paprika
2 tablespoons Sherry wine
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in strips. Cook butter with mushrooms broken in pieces and onion juice three minutes; add flour, and pour on gradually milk. Add lobster meat, season with salt and paprika, and, as soon as lobster is heated, add wine. Remove to serving dish, and garnish with puff paste or toast points and parsley.
180
Lobster and Oyster Ragout
1/4 cup butter Few grains cayenne
1/4 cup flour Few drops onion juice
3/4 cup oyster liquor 1 pint oysters parboiled
3/4 cup cream 3/4 cup lobster dice
3/4 teaspoon salt 11/2 tablespoons Sauterne
1/4 teaspoon pepper 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
Make a sauce of first eight ingredients. Add oysters, lobster dice, wine, and parsley.
181
Stuffed Lobster à la Béchamel
2 1b. lobster Few grains cayenne
11/2 cups milk Slight grating nutmeg
Bit of bay leaf 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
3 tablespoons butter 1 teaspoon lemon juice
3 tablespoons flour Yolks 2 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt 1/2 cup buttered crumbs
Remove lobster meat from shell and cut in dice. Scald milk with bay leaf, remove bay leaf and make a white sauce of butter, flour, and milk; add salt, cayenne, nutmeg, parsley, yolks of eggs slightly beaten, and lemon juice. Add lobster dice, refill shells, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown. One-half chicken stock and one-half cream may be used for sauce if a richer dish is desired.
182
Broiled Live Lobster
Live lobsters may be dressed for broiling at market, or may be done at home. Clean lobster and place in a buttered wire broiler. Broil eight minutes on flesh side, turn and broil six minutes on shell side. Serve with melted butter. Lobsters taste nearly the same when placed in dripping-pan and baked fifteen minutes in hot oven, and are much easier cooked.
183
To Split a Live Lobster. Cross large claws and hold firmly with left hand. With sharp-pointed knife, held in right hand, begin at the mouth and make a deep incision, and, with a sharp cut, draw the knife quickly through body and entire length of tail. Open lobster, remove intestinal vein, liver, and stomach, and crack claw shells with a mallet. 184
Baked Live Lobster. Devilled Sauce.
Prepare lobster same as for Broiled Live Lobster and place in a dripping-pan. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter three minutes. Season highly with salt, cayenne, and Worcestershire Sauce. Spread over lobster, and bake in a hot oven fifteen minutes. Remove to platter and serve at once, allowing over one and one-half pound lobster to each person.
185
Live Lobster en Brochette
Split a live lobster, remove meat from tail and large claws, cut in pieces, and arrange on skewers, alternating pieces with small slices of bacon. Fry in deep fat and drain. Cook liver of lobster with one tablespoon butter three minutes, season highly with mustard and cayenne, and serve with lobster.
186
Lobster à 1’Américaine
Split a live lobster and put in a large omelet pan, sprinkle with one-fourth onion finely chopped and a few grains of cayenne and cook five minutes. Add one-half cup Tomato Sauce II and cook three minutes; then add two tablespoons Sherry wine, cover, and cook in oven seven minutes. To the liver add one tablespoon wine, two tablespoons Tomato Sauce and one-half tablespoon melted butter; heat in pan after lobster has been removed. As soon as sauce is heated, strain, and pour over lobster.
187
Lobster à la Muisset
Cut two one and one-half pound live lobsters in pieces for serving, remove intestinal vein and lady, and crack large claws. Cook one tablespoon finely
chopped shallot and three tablespoons chopped carrot in two tablespoons butter ten minutes, stirring constantly that carrots may not burn. Add two sprigs thyme, one-half bay leaf, two red peppers from pepper sauce, one teaspoon salt, one and one-third cups Brown Stock, two-thirds cup stewed and strained tomatoes, and three tablespoons Sherry wine. Add lobster and cook fifteen minutes. Remove lobster to serving dish, thicken sauce with four tablespoons, each, butter and flour cooked together, and add one and one-half tablespoons brandy. Pour sauce around lobster, and sprinkle all with finely chopped chives.ฟ

SOUPS.

It cannot be denied that the French excel all nations in the excellence of their cuisine, and to their soups and sauces belong the greatest praise. It would be well to follow their example, and it is the duty of every housekeeper to learn the art of soup making. How may a hearty dinner be better begun than with a thin soup? The hot liquid, taken into an empty stomach, is easily assimilated, acts as a stimulant rather than a nutrient (as is the popular opinion), and prepares the way for the meal which is to follow. The cream soups and purées are so nutritious that, with bread and butter, they furnish a satisfactory meal. 1
Soups are divided into two great classes: soups with stock; soups without stock. 2
Soups with stock have, for their basis, beef, veal, mutton, fish, poultry, or game, separately or in combination. They are classified as:— 3
Bouillon, made from lean beef, delicately seasoned, and usually cleared. Exception,—clam bouillon. 4
Brown Soup Stock, made from beef (two-thirds lean meat, and remainder bone and fat), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. 5
White Soup Stock, made from chicken or veal, with delicate seasonings. 6
Consommé, usually made from two or three kinds of meat (beef, veal, and fowl being employed), highly seasoned with vegetables, spices, and sweet herbs. Always served clear. 7
Lamb Stock, delicately seasoned, is served as mutton broth. 8
Soups without stock are classified as:— 9
Cream Soups, made of vegetables or fish, with milk, and a small amount of cream and seasonings. Always thickened. 10
Purées, made from vegetables or fish, forced through a strainer, and retained in soup, milk, and seasonings. Generally thicker than cream soup. Sometimes White Stock is added. 11
Bisques, generally made from shell-fish, milk, and sea-sonings, and served with fish dice; made similarly to purées. They may be made of meat, game, or vegetables, with small dice of the same. 12
Various names have been given to soups, according to their flavorings, chief ingredients, the people who use them, etc. To the Scotch belongs Scotch Broth; to the French, Pot-au-feu; to the Indo, Mulligatawny; and to the Spanish, Olla Podrida. 13
SOUP MAKING
The art of soup making is more easily mastered than at first appears. The young housekeeper is startled at the amazingly large number of ingredients the recipe calls for, and often is discouraged. One may, with but little expense, keep at hand what is essential for the making of a good soup. Winter vegetables—turnips, carrots, celery, and onions—may be bought in large or small quantities. The outer stalks of celery, often not suitable for serving, should be saved for soups. At seasons when celery is a luxury, the tips and roots should be saved and dried. Sweet herbs, including thyme, savory, and marjoram, are dried and put up in packages, retailing from five to ten cents. Bay leaves, which should be used sparingly, may be obtained at first-class grocers’ or druggists’; seeming never to lose strength, they may be kept indefinitely. Spices, including whole cloves, allspice berries, peppercorns, and stick cinnamon, should be kept on hand. These seasonings, with the addition of salt, pepper, and parsley, are the essential flavorings for stock soups. Flour, cornstarch, arrowroot, fine tapioca, sago, pearl barley, rice, bread, or eggs are added to give consistency and nourishment. 14
In small families, where there are few left-overs, fresh meat must be bought for the making of soup stock, as a good soup cannot be made from a small amount of poor material. On the other hand, large families need seldom buy fresh meat, provided all left-overs are properly cared for. The soup kettle should receive small pieces of beef (roasted, broiled, or stewed), veal, carcasses of fowl or chicken, chop bones, bones left from lamb roast, and all trimmings and bones, which a careful housewife should see are sent from the market with her order. Avoid the use of smoked or corned meats, or large pieces of raw mutton or lamb surrounded by fat, on account of the strong flavor so disagreeable to many. A small piece of bacon or lean ham is sometimes cooked with vegetables for flavor. 15
Beef ranks first as regards utility and economy in soup making. It should be cut from the fore or hind shin (which cuts contain marrow-bone), the middle cuts being most desirable. If the lower part of shin is used, the soup, although rich in gelatin, lacks flavor, unless a cheap piece of lean meat is used with it, which frequently is done. It must be remembered that meat, bone, and fat in the right proportions are all necessary; allow two-thirds lean meat, the remaining one-third bone and fat. From the meat the soluble juices, salts, extractives (which give color and flavor), and a small quantity of gelatin are extracted; from the bone, gelatin (which gives the stock when cold a jelly-like
consistency) and mineral matter. Gelatin is also obtained from cartilage, skin, tendons, and ligaments. Some of the fat is absorbed; the remainder rises to the top and should be removed. 16
Soup-stock making is rendered easier by use of proper utensils. Sharp meat knives, hardwood board, two purée strainers having meshes of different size, and a soup digester (a porcelain-lined iron pot, having tight-fitting cover, with valve in the top), or covered granite kettle, are essentials. An iron kettle, which formerly constituted one of the furnishings of a range, may be used if perfectly smooth. A saw, cleaver, and scales, although not necessary, are useful, and lighten labor. 17
When meat comes from market, remove from paper and put in cool place. When ready to start stock, if scales are at hand, weigh meat and bone to see if correct proportions have been sent. Wipe meat with clean cheesecloth wrung out of cold water. Cut lean meat in one-inch cubes; by so doing, a large amount of surface is exposed to the water, and juices are more easily drawn out. Heat frying-pan hissing hot; remove marrow from marrow-bone, and use enough to brown one-third of the lean meat, stirring constantly, that all parts of surface may be seared, thus preventing escape of juices,—sacrificing a certain amount of goodness in the stock to give additional color and flavor, which is obtained by caramelization. Put fat, bone, and remaining lean meat in soup kettle; cover with cold water, allowing one pint to each pound of meat, bone, and fat. Let stand one hour, that cold water may draw out juices from meat. Add browned meat, taking water from soup kettle to rinse out frying-pan, that none of the coloring may be lost. Heat gradually to boiling-point, and cook six or seven hours at low temperature. A scum will rise on the top, which contains coagulated albuminous juices; these give to soup its chief nutritive value; many, however, prefer a clear soup, and have them removed. If allowed to remain, when straining, a large part will pass through strainer. Vegetables, spices, and salt should be added the last hour of cooking. Strain and cool quickly; by so doing, stock is less apt to ferment. A knuckle of veal is often used for making white soup stock. Fowl should be used for stock in preference to chicken, as it is cheaper, and contains a larger amount of nutriment. A cake of fat forms on stock when cold, which excludes air, and should not be removed until stock is used. To remove fat, run a knife around edge of bowl and carefully remove the same. A small quantity will remain, which should be removed by passing a cloth wrung out of hot water around edge and over top of stock. This fat should be clarified and used for drippings. If time cannot be allowed for stock to cool before using, take off as much fat as possible with a spoon, and remove the remainder by passing tissue or any absorbent paper over the surface. 18
How to Clear Soup Stock
Whites of eggs slightly beaten, or raw, lean beef finely chopped, are employed for clearing soup stock. The albumen found in each effects the clearing by drawing to itself some of the juices which have been extracted from the meat, and by action of heat have been coagulated. Some rise to the top and form a scum, others are precipitated. 19
Remove fat from stock, and put quantity to be cleared in stew-pan, allowing white and shell of one egg to each quart of stock. Beat egg slightly, break shell in small pieces and add to stock. Place on front of range, and stir constantly until boiling-point is reached; boil two minutes. Set back where it may simmer twenty minutes; remove scum, and strain through double thickness of cheesecloth placed over a fine strainer. If stock to be cleared is not sufficiently seasoned, additional seasoning must be added as soon as stock has lost its jelly-like consistency; not after clearing is effected. Many think the flavor obtained from a few shavings of lemon rind an agreeable addition. 20
How to Bind Soups
Cream soups and purées, if allowed to stand, separate, unless bound together. To bind a soup, melt butter, and when bubbling add an equal quantity of flour; when well mixed add to soup, stirring constantly until boiling-point is reached. If recipe calls for more flour than butter, or soup is one that should be made in double boiler, add gradually a portion of hot mixture to butter and flour until of such consistency that it may be poured into the mixture remaining in double boiler. 21
SOUPS WITH MEAT STOCK
Brown Soup Stock
6 lbs. shin of beef 1 sprig marjoram
3 quarts cold water 2 sprigs parsley
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Carrot 1/2 cup each, cut in dice
6 cloves Turnip
1/2 bay leaf Onion
3 sprigs thyme Celery
1 tablespoon salt
Wipe beef, and cut the lean meat in inch cubes. Brown one-third of meat in hot frying-pan in marrow from a marrow-bone. Put remaining two-thirds with bone and fat in soup kettle, add water, and let stand for thirty minutes. Place on back of range, add browned meat, and heat gradually to boiling-point. As scum rises it should be removed. Cover, and cook slowly six hours, keeping below boiling-point during cooking. Add vegetables and seasonings, cook one and one-half hours, strain, and cool as quickly as possible.
22
Bouillon
5 lbs. lean beef from middle of round 1 tablespoon salt
Carrot 1/3 cup each, cut in dice
2 lbs. marrow-bone Turnip
3 quarts cold water Onion
1 teaspoon peppercorns Celery
Wipe, and cut meat in inch cubes. Put two-thirds of meat in soup kettle, and soak in water thirty minutes. Brown remainder in hot frying-pan with marrow from marrow-bone. Put browned meat and bone in kettle. Heat to boiling-point; skim thoroughly, and cook at temperature below boiling-point five hours. Add seasonings and vegetables, cook one hour, strain, and cool. Remove fat, and clear. Serve in bouillon cups.
23
Tomato Bouillon with Oysters
1 can tomatoes 6 cloves
11/2 quarts bouillon 1/2 teaspoon celery seed
1 tablespoon chopped onion 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
1/2 bay leaf 1 pint oysters
Mix all ingredients except oysters, and boil twenty minutes. Strain, cool, and clear. Add parboiled oysters, and serve in bouillon cups with small croûtons.
24
Iced Bouillon
Flavor bouillon with sherry or Madeira wine, and serve cold.
25
Macaroni Soup
1 quart Brown Soup Stock Salt
1/4 cup macaroni, broken in half-inch pieces. Pepper
Cook macaroni in boiling salted water until soft. Drain, and add to stock heated to boiling-point. Season with salt and pepper. Spaghetti or other Italian pastes may be substituted for macaroni.
26
Tomato Soup with Stock
1 quart Brown Soup Stock 1/3 cup flour
1 can tomatoes Onion 1/4 cup each cut in dice
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Carrot
1 small bay leaf Celery
3 cloves Raw ham
3 sprigs thyme Salt
4 tablespoons butter Pepper
Cook onion, carrot, celery, and ham in butter five minutes, add flour, peppercorns, bay leaf, cloves, and thyme, and cook three minutes; then add tomatoes, cover, and cook slowly one hour. When cooked in oven it requires less watching. Rub through a strainer, add hot stock, and season with salt and pepper.
27
Turkish Soup
5 cups Brown Soup Stock 2 slices onion
1/4 cup rice 10 peppercorns
11/2 cups stewed and strained tomatoes 1/4 teaspoon celery salt
2 tablespoons butter
Bit of bay leaf 11/2 tablespoons flour
Cook rice in Brown Stock until soft. Cook bay leaf, onion, peppercorns, and celery salt with tomatoes thirty minutes. Combine mixtures, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper if needed.
28
Creole Soup
1 quart Brown Soup Stock Salt
1 pint tomatoes Pepper
3 tablespoons chopped green peppers Cayenne
2 tablespoons chopped onion 2 tablespoons grated horseradish
1/4 cup butter 1 teaspoon vinegar
1/3 cup flour 1/4 cup macaroni rings
Cook pepper and onion in butter five minutes. Add flour, stock, and tomatoes, and simmer fifteen minutes. Strain rub through sieve, and season highly with salt, pepper, and cayenne. Just before serving add horseradish, vinegar, and macaroni previously cooked and cut in rings.
29
Julienne Soup
To one quart clear Brown Soup Stock, add one-fourth cup each carrot and turnip, cut in thin strips one and one-half inches long, previously cooked in boiling salted water, and two tablespoons, each, cooked peas and string beans. Heat to boiling-point.
30
Dinner Soup
31/2 lbs. lean beef from round 2 tablespoons butter
2 lbs. marrow-bone Carrot 1/3 cup, each
2 qts. cold water Turnip
1 can tomatoes Onion cut in small pieces
1 teaspoon peppercorns Celery
1 tablespoon salt 1 sprig parsley
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, finely chopped 1/2 bay leaf
Wipe meat and cut in inch cubes. Put one-half in kettle with marrow-bone, water, and tomatoes. Brown remaining half in hot frying-pan with some marrow from bone, then turn into kettle. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and cook at temperature just below boiling-point five hours.
31
Cook ham and vegetables with butter five minutes, then add to soup with peppercorns, salt, parsley, and bay leaf. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear. 32
Bortchock Soup
6 lbs. shin of beef 2 sprigs parsley
3 qts. cold water 2 stalks celery
1 cup carrot cubes 1 beet finely cut
1/2 cup sliced onion 1 tablespoon salt
6 cloves 1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 allspice berry 2 tablespoons butter
Prepare and cook beef same as for Bouillon. Cook vegetables in butter five minutes; then add to soup with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear. When ready to clear, add one cup finely chopped raw beet and one-fourth cup vinegar. Select red beets for this soup, and serve as soon as possible after clearing, otherwise it will lose its bright red color, which makes the dish especially appropriate for an American Beauty Dinner.
33
Ox-tail Soup
1 small ox-tail 1/2 teaspoon salt
6 cups Brown Stock Few grains cayenne
Carrot 1/2 cup each, cut in fancy shapes 1/4 cup Madeira wine
Turnip 1 teaspoon Worcestershire Sauce
Onion 1/2 cup each, cut in small pieces
Celery 1 teaspoon lemon juice
Cut ox-tail in small pieces, wash, drain, sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in butter ten minutes. Add to Brown Stock, and simmer one hour. Then add vegetables, which have been parboiled twenty minutes; simmer until vegetables are soft, add salt, cayenne, wine, Worcester-shire Sauce, and lemon juice.
34
Scotch Soup
3 lbs. mutton from fore-quarter 1/2 onion
2 qts. cold water 1/4 cup flour
1/2 tablespoon salt 1/4 cup, each, cut in small cubes
1/4 teaspoon pepper Carrot
2 slices turnip Turnip
2 tablespoons pearl barley
Wipe meat, remove skin and fat, and cut meat in small pieces. Add water, heat gradually to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly two hours. After cooking one hour, add salt, pepper, turnip, and onion. Strain, cool, remove fat, reheat, and thicken with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Cook carrot and turnip dice in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. Soak barley over night, in cold water, drain, and cook in boiling salted water until soft; drain, and add to soup. If barley should be cooked in the soup, it would
absorb the greater part of the stock. Barley may be omitted; in that case sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and serve with croûtons.
35
White Soup Stock I
3 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 large stalk celery
1 1b. lean beef 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
3 quarts boiling water 1/2 bay leaf
1 onion 2 sprigs thyme
6 slices carrot 2 cloves
French Chef
Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces; cut beef in pieces, put bone and meat in soup kettle, cover with cold water, and bring quickly to boiling-point; drain, throw away the water. Wash thoroughly bones and meat in cold water; return to kettle, add vegetables, seasonings, and three quarts boiling water. Boil three or four hours; the stock should be reduced one half.
36
White Soup Stock II
4 lbs. knuckle of veal 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
2 quarts cold water 1 onion
1 tablespoon salt 2 stalks celery
Blade of mace
Wipe meat, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, water, and seasonings in kettle. Heat gradually to boiling-point, skimming frequently. Simmer four or five hours, and strain. If scum has been carefully removed, and soup is strained through double thickness of cheesecloth, stock will be quite clear.
37
White Soup Stock III
The water in which a fowl or chicken is cooked makes White Stock.
38
Chicken Soup with Wine
3 1b. fowl 1 onion, sliced
2 quarts cold water 2 stalks celery
2 slices carrot Bit of bay leaf
1 tablespoon salt 2 tablespoons Sauterne wine
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns 1 teaspoon beef extract
1 cup cream Salt Pepper
Wipe and cut up fowl. Cover with water, and add carrot, salt, peppercorns, onion, celery, and bay leaf. Bring quickly to boiling-point, then let simmer until meat is tender. Remove meat and strain stock. Chill, remove fat, reheat, and add wine, beef extract, and cream. Season with salt and pepper.
39
French White Soup
4 lb. fowl 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
Knuckle of veal 1/2 tablespoon salt
3 qts. cold water 1 tablespoon lean raw ham,
1 onion, sliced finely chopped
6 slices carrot 4 tablespoons butter
1/2 bay leaf 3 tablespoons flour
1 sprig parsley 1 cup cream
1/2 teaspoon thyme Yolks 2 eggs
Wipe, clean, and disjoint fowl. Wipe veal, remove from bone, and cut in small pieces. Put meat, bone, and water in kettle, heat slowly to boiling-point, skim, and cook slowly four hours. Cook vegetables and ham in one tablespoon butter five minutes, add to soup with peppercorns and salt, and cook one hour. Strain, cool, and remove fat. Reheat three cups stock, thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together, and just before serving add cream and egg yolks. Garnish with one-half cup cooked green peas and Chicken Custard cut in dice.
40
White Soup
5 cups White Stock III 2 cups scalded milk
1/2 tablespoon salt 3 tablespoons butter
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns 4 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion Yolks 2 eggs
1 stalk celery Salt and pepper
Add seasonings to stock, and simmer thirty minutes; strain, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together; add scalded milk. Dilute eggs, slightly beaten, with hot soup, and add to remaining soup; strain, and season with salt and pepper. Serve at once or soup will have a curdled appearance.
41
Chicken Soup
6 cups White Stock III 2 stalks celery
1 tablespoon lean raw ham, 1/2 bay leaf
finely chopped 1/4 teaspoon peppercorns
6 slices carrot, cut in cubes 1 sliced onion
1/3 cup hot boiled rice
Add seasonings to stock, heat gradually to boiling-point, and boil thirty minutes; strain, and add rice.
42
Turkey Soup
Break turkey carcass in pieces, removing all stuffing; put in kettle with any bits of meat that may have been left over. Cover with cold water, bring slowly to boiling-point, and simmer two hours. Strain, remove fat, and season with salt and pepper. One or two outer stalks of celery may be cooked with carcass to give additional flavor.
43
Hygienic Soup
6 cups White Stock III 2 tablespoons butter
1/4 cup oatmeal 2 tablespoons flour
2 cups scalded milk Salt and pepper
Heat stock to boiling-point, add oatmeal, and boil one hour; rub through sieve, add milk, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper.
44
Farina Soup
4 cups White Stock III 1 cup cream
1/4 cup farina Few gratings of nutmeg
2 cups scalded milk Salt and pepper
Heat stock to boiling-point, add farina, and boil fifteen minutes; then add milk, cream, and seasonings.
45
Spring Soup
1 quart White Stock I or II 1 cup milk
1 large onion thinly sliced 1 cup cream
3 tablespoons butter 2 tablespoons flour
1/2 cup stale baker’s bread Salt and pepper
Cook onion fifteen minutes in one tablespoon butter; add to stock, with bread broken in pieces. Simmer one hour; rub through sieve. Add milk, and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together; add cream, and season.
46
Duchess Soup
4 cups White Stock III 1/3 cup butter
2 slices carrot, cut in cubes 1/4 cup flour
2 slices onion 1 teaspoon salt
2 blades mace 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup grated mild cheese 2 cups scalded milk
Cook vegetables three minutes in one and one-half tablespoons butter, then add stock and mace; boil fifteen minutes, strain, and add milk. Thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together; add salt and pepper. Stir in cheese, and serve as soon as cheese is melted.
47
Potage à la Reine
4 cups White Stock III 1/3 cup cracker crumbs
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns Breast meat from a boiled
1 stalk celery Chicken
1 slice onion 2 cups scalded milk
1/2 tablespoon salt 1/2 cup cold milk
Yolks 3 “hard-boiled” eggs 3 tablespoons butter
3 tablespoons flour
Cook stock with seasonings twenty minutes. Rub yolks of eggs through sieve. Soak cracker crumbs in cold milk until soft; add to eggs. Chop meat and rub through sieve; add to egg and cracker mixture. Then pour milk on slowly, and add to strained stock; boil three minutes. Bind with butter and flour cooked together.
48
Royal Soup
1 cup stale bread crumbs 11/2 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup milk 31/2 cups White
Yolks 3 “hard-boiled” eggs Stock III
Breast meat from a boiled chicken 21/2 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper 21/2 tablespoons flour
Soak bread crumbs in milk, add yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve and chicken meat also rubbed through a sieve. Add gradually milk, and chicken stock highly seasoned. Bind with butter and flour cooked together, and season with salt and pepper.
49
St. Germain Soup
3 cups White Stock I, II, or III Blade of mace
1 can Marrowfat peas 2 teaspoons sugar
1 cup cold water 1 teaspoon salt
1/2 onion 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Bit of bay leaf 2 tablespoons butter
Sprig of parsley 2 tablespoons cornstarch
1 cup milk
Drain and rinse peas, reserving one-third cup; put remainder in cold water with seasonings, and simmer one-half hour; rub through sieve and add stock. Bind with butter and cornstarch cooked together; boil five minutes. Add milk and reserved peas.
50
Imperial Soup
4 cups White Stock III 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns
2 cups stale bread crumbs Bit of bay leaf
2 stalks celery, broken in pieces Blade of mace
2 slices carrot, cut in cubes 1 teaspoon salt
1 small onion 1/2 breast boiled chicken
3 tablespoons butter 1/3 cup blanched almonds
Sprig of parsley 1 cup cream
2 cloves 1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons flour
Cook celery, carrot, and onion in one tablespoon butter five minutes; tie in cheesecloth with parsley, cloves, peppercorns, bay leaf, and mace; add to stock with salt and bread crumbs, simmer one hour, remove seasonings, and rub through a sieve. Chop chicken meat and rub through sieve; pound almonds to a paste, add to chicken, then add cream. Combine mixtures, add milk, reheat, and bind with remaining butter and flour cooked together.
51
Veal and Sago Soup
21/2 lbs. lean veal 2 cups scalded milk
3 quarts cold water Yolks 4 eggs
1/4 lb. pearl sago Salt and pepper
Order meat from market, very finely chopped. Pick over and remove particles of fat. Cover meat with water bring slowly to boiling-point, and simmer two hours, skimming occasionally; strain and reheat. Soak sago one-half hour in enough cold water to cover, stir into hot stock, boil thirty minutes, and add milk; then pour mixture slowly on yolks of eggs, slightly beaten. Season with salt and pepper.
52
Asparagus Soup
3 cups White Stock II or III 1/4 cup butter
1 can asparagus 1/4 cup flour
2 cups cold water 2 cups scalded milk
1 slice onion Salt and pepper
Drain and rinse asparagus, reserve tips, and add stalks to cold water; boil five minutes, drain, add stock, and onion; boil thirty minutes, rub through sieve, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add salt, pepper, milk, and tips.
53
Cream of Celery Soup
2 cups White Stock II or III 3 tablespoons flour
3 cups celery, cut in inch pieces 2 cups milk
2 cups boiling water 1 cup cream
1 slice onion Salt
2 tablespoons butter Pepper
Parboil celery in water ten minutes; drain, add stock, cook until celery is soft, and rub through sieve. Scald onion in milk, remove onion, add milk to stock, bind, add cream, and season with salt and pepper.
54
Spinach Soup
4 cups White Stock II or III 1/4 cup butter
2 quarts spinach 1/3 cup flour
3 cups boiling water Salt
2 cups milk Pepper
Wash, pick over, and cook spinach thirty minutes in boiling water to which has been added one-fourth teaspoon powdered sugar and one-eighth teaspoon of soda; drain, chop, and rub through sieve; add stock, heat to boiling-point, bind, add milk, and season with salt and pepper.
55
Cream of Lettuce Soup
21/2 cups White Stock II or III 1 tablespoon butter
2 heads lettuce finely cut Yolk 1 egg
2 tablespoons rice Few grains nutmeg
1/2 cup cream Salt
1/4 tablespoon onion, finely chopped Pepper
Cook onion five minutes in butter, add lettuce, rice, and stock. Cook until rice is soft, then add cream, yolk of egg slightly beaten, nutmeg, salt, and pepper. Remove outer leaves from lettuce, using only tender part for soup.
56
Mushroom Soup
1/2 lb. mushrooms 1 cup boiling water
4 cups White Stock III 1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup pearl sago Yolks 2 eggs
Salt and pepper
Clean and chop mushrooms, and add to stock. Cook twenty minutes and rub through a sieve. Cook sago in boiling water thirty minutes, add to stock, and as soon as boiling-point is reached, season with salt and pepper; then add cream and yolks of eggs.
57
Cream of Mushroom Soup
1/2 lb. mushrooms 1/4 cup flour
4 cups White Stock III 1 cup cream
1 slice onion Salt
1/4 cup butter Pepper
2 tablespoons Sauterne
Chop mushrooms, add to White Stock with onion, cook twenty minutes, and rub through a sieve. Reheat, bind with butter and flour cooked together, then add cream and salt and pepper to taste. Just before serving add wine.
58
Cream of Watercress Soup
2 cups White Stock I, II or III 1/2 cup milk
2 bunches watercress Yolk 1 egg
3 tablespoons butter Salt
2 tablespoons flour Pepper
Cut finely leaves of watercress; cook five minutes in two tablespoons butter, add stock, and boil five minutes. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together, add salt and pepper. Just before serving, add milk and egg yolk, slightly beaten. Serve with slices of French bread, browned in oven.
59
Cream of Cauliflower Soup
4 cups hot White Stock II or III 1/2 bay leaf
1 cauliflower 1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup butter 2 cups milk
1 slice onion Salt
1 stalk celery, cut in inch pieces Pepper
Soak cauliflower, head down, one hour in cold water to cover; cook in boiling salted water twenty minutes. Reserve one-half flowerets, and rub remaining cauliflower through sieve. Cook onion, celery, and bay leaf in butter five minutes. Remove bay leaf, then add flour, and stir into hot stock; add cauliflower and milk. Season with salt and pepper; then strain, add flowerets, and reheat.
60
Cucumber Soup
3 large cucumbers 1 slice onion
2 tablespoons butter 2 blades mace
3 tablespoons flour 1/2 cup cream
3 cups White Stock III Yolks 2 eggs
1 cup milk Salt and pepper
Peel cucumbers, slice, and remove seeds. Cook in butter ten minutes; then add flour and stock. Scald milk with onion and mace. Combine mixtures and rub through a sieve. Reheat to boiling-point and add cream and egg yolks. Season with salt and pepper.
61
Almond Soup
2/3 cup almonds 3 stalks celery
6 bitter almonds 3 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons cold water 3 tablespoons flour
1/8 teaspoon salt 2 cups scalded milk
3 cups White Stock III 1 cup cream
1 small onion Salt and pepper
Blanch, chop, and pound almonds in a mortar. Add gradually water and salt; then add stock, sliced onion, and celery, let simmer one hour, and rub through a sieve. Melt butter, add flour, and pour on gradually the hot liquor; then add milk, cream, and salt and pepper to taste. Serve with Mock Almonds .
62
String Bean Soup
4 cups White Stock I, II, or III 1/4 cup flour
2 quarts string beans 1/4 cup butter
2 cups scalded milk Salt and pepper
Cook beans until soft in boiling salted water to cover; drain, and rub through sieve. Add pulp to White Stock, then milk; bind, and season with salt and pepper. Garnish with Fritter Beans.
63
Soup à la Soubise
Thinly slice two Spanish onions, and cook ten minutes in one-fourth cup butter, stirring constantly. Add one quart White Stock III, cook slowly thirty minutes, and strain. Dilute three tablespoons flour with enough cold water to pour easily, add to soup, and bring to boiling-point. Then add one cup cream, and one tablespoon chopped green peppers, or one-fourth cup grated cheese. Season with salt and pepper.
64
Chestnut Purée
4 cups White Stock II or III 2 cups scalded milk
2 cups French chestnuts, boiled and mashed 1/4 cup butter
1/4 cup flour
1 slice onion Salt
1/4 teaspoon celery salt Pepper
Cook stock, chestnuts, onion, and celery salt ten minutes; rub through sieve, add milk, and bind. Season with salt and pepper.
65
Crab Soup
6 hard-shelled crabs 2 tablespoons butter
3 cups White Stock III 2 tablespoons flour
2/3 cup stale bread crumbs 1 cup cream
1 slice onion Salt
1 sprig parsley Cayenne
Remove meat from crabs, and chop finely. Add stock, bread crumbs, onion, and parsley, and simmer twenty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bind with butter and flour cooked together, then add cream and seasonings. Serve with Pulled Bread.
66
Philadelphia Pepper Pot
Sliced onion 1/4 cup each 1/2 lb. honeycomb tripe, cut in cubes
Chopped celery
Chopped green peppers 11/2 cups potato cubes
4 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon peppercorns, finely pounded
31/2 tablespoons flour
5 cups hot White Stock III 3/4 tablespoon salt
1/2 cup heavy cream
Cook vegetables in three tablespoons butter fifteen minutes; add flour, and stir until well mixed; then add remaining ingredients except cream. Cover, and let cook one hour. Just before serving, add cream and remaining butter.
67
Mulligatawny Soup
5 cups White Stock II 1/4 cup butter
1 cup tomatoes 1/3 cup flour
Onion, cut in slices 1/4 cup each 1 teaspoon curry powder
Carrot, cut in cubes
Celery, cut in cubes Blade of mace
1 pepper, finely chopped 2 cloves
1 apple, sliced Sprig of parsley
1 cup raw chicken, cut in dice Salt and pepper
French Chef
Cook vegetables and chicken in butter until brown; add flour, curry powder, mace, cloves, parsley, stock, and tomato, and simmer one hour. Strain, reserve chicken, and rub vegetables through sieve. Add chicken to strained soup, season with salt and pepper, and serve with boiled rice.
68
Mock Turtle Soup
1 calf’s head 2 cups brown stock
6 cloves 1/4 cup butter
1/2 teaspoon peppercorns 1/2 cup flour
6 allspice berries 1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
2 sprigs thyme
1/3 cup sliced onion Juice 1/2 lemon
1/3 cup carrot, cut in dice Madeira wine
Clean and wash calf’s head; soak one hour in cold water to cover. Cook until tender in three quarts boiling salted water (to which seasoning and vegetables have been added). Remove head; boil stock until reduced to one quart. Strain and cool. Melt and brown butter, add flour, and stir until well browned; then pour on slowly brown stock. Add head-stock, tomato, one cup face-meat cut in dice, and lemon juice. Simmer five minutes; add Royal custard cut in dice, and Egg Balls, or Force-meat Balls. Add Madeira wine, and salt and pepper to taste.
69
Consommé
3 lbs. beef, poorer part of round 2 tablespoons butter
1 lb. marrow-bone 1 tablespoon salt
3 lbs. knuckle of veal 1 teaspoon peppercorns
1 quart chicken stock 4 cloves
Carrot 1/3 cup each, cut in dice 3 sprigs thyme
Turnip 1 sprig marjoram
Celery 2 sprigs parsley
1/3 cup sliced onion 1/2 bay leaf
3 quarts cold water
Cut beef in one and one-half inch cubes, and brown one-half in some of the marrow from marrow-bone; put remaining half in kettle with cold water, add veal cut in pieces, browned meat, and bones. Let stand one-half hour. Heat slowly to boiling-point, and let simmer three hours, removing scum as it forms on top of kettle. Add one quart liquor in which a fowl was cooked, and simmer two hours. Cook carrot, turnip, onion, and celery in butter five minutes; then add to soup, with remaining seasonings. Cook one and one-half hours, strain, cool quickly, remove fat, and clear.
70
Consommé à la Royal
Consommé, served with Royal custard.
71
Consommé au Parmesan
Consommé, served with Parmesan Pâte à Chou.
72
Consommé Colbert
To six cups Consommé add one-third cup each of cooked green peas, flageolets, carrots cut in small cubes, and celery cut in small pieces. Serve a poached egg in each plate of soup.
73
Consommé aux Pâtes
Consommé, served with noodles, macaroni, spaghetti, or any Italian pastes, first cooked in boiling salted water.
74
Consommé d’Orleans
Consommé, served with red and white quenelles and French peas.
75
Consommé with Vegetables
Consommé, served with French string beans, and cooked carrots cut in fancy shapes with French vegetable cutters.
76
Consommé Princess
Consommé, served with green peas and cooked chicken meat cut in small dice.
77
Claret Consommé
To one quart Consommé add one and one-half cups claret, which has been cooked with a three-inch piece stick cinnamon ten minutes and one tablespoon sugar. Color red.
78
Bortchock Consommé
Make same as Consommé, adding one-third cup chopped beets with vegetables; then add one cup finely chopped beets when clearing.
79
SOUPS WITH FISH STOCK
Clam Bouillon
Wash and scrub with a brush one-half peck clams, changing the water several times. Put in kettle with three cups cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Strain liquor, cool, and clear.
80
Oyster Stew
1 quart oysters 1/4 cup butter
4 cups scalded milk 1/2 tablespoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Clean oysters by placing in a colander and pouring over them three-fourths cup cold water. Carefully pick over oysters, reserve liquor, and heat it to boiling-point; strain through double cheesecloth, add oysters, and cook until oysters are plump and edges begin to curl. Remove oysters with skimmer, and put in tureen with butter, salt, and pepper. Add oyster liquor strained a second time, and milk. Serve with oyster crackers.
81
Scallop Stew
Make same as Oyster Stew, using one quart scallops in place of oysters.
82
Oyster Soup
1 quart oysters Sprig of parsley
4 cups milk Bit of bay leaf
1 slice onion 1/3 cup butter
2 stalks celery 1/3 cup flour
2 blades mace Salt and pepper
Clean and pick over oysters as for Oyster Stew; reserve liquor, add oysters slightly chopped, heat slowly to boiling-point, and let simmer twenty minutes. Strain through cheesecloth, reheat liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, celery, mace, parsley, and bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add to oyster liquor. Season with salt and pepper.
83
French Oyster Soup
1 quart oysters 1/3 cup butter
4 cups milk 1/3 cup flour
1 slice onion Yolks 2 eggs
2 blades mace Salt and pepper
Make same as Oyster Soup, adding yolks of eggs, slightly beaten, just before serving. Garnish with Fish Quenelles.
84
Oyster Soup, Amsterdam Style
1 quart oysters 1/2 teaspoon salt
Water Paprika
3 tablespoons butter Celery salt
31/2 tablespoons flour 1 cup cream
Clean, pick over, chop, and parboil oysters; drain, strain through cheesecloth, and add to liquor enough water to make one quart liquid. Brown butter, add flour, and pour on gradually, while stirring constantly, oyster liquor. Let simmer one-half hour. Season with salt, paprika, and celery salt, and just before serving add cream.
85
Oyster Gumbo
1 pint oysters 1/2 can okra
4 cups Fish Stock 1/3 can tomatoes
1/4 cup butter Salt
1 tablespoon chopped onion Pepper
Clean, pick over, and parboil oysters; drain, and add oyster liquor to Fish Stock. Cook onion five minutes in one-half the butter; add to stock. Then add okra, tomatoes heated and drained from some of their liquor, oysters, and remaining butter. Season with salt and pepper.
86
Fish Stock is the liquor obtained by covering the head, tail, skin, bones, and small quantity of flesh adhering to bones of fish, with cold water, bringing slowly to boiling-point, simmering thirty minutes, and straining. 87
Clam Soup with Poached Eggs
1 quart clams 2 tablespoons flour
4 cups milk 11/2 teaspoons salt
1 slice onion 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/3 cup butter Few gratings nutmeg
White 1 egg
Clean and pick over clams, using three-fourths cup cold water; reserve liquor. Put aside soft part of clams; finely chop hard part, add to liquor, bring gradually to boiling-point, strain through cheesecloth, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with onion, remove onion, add milk, seasonings, and soft part of clams. Bring to boiling-point and pour over whites of eggs beaten stiff.
88
Clam and Oyster Soup
1 pint clams Sprig of parsley
1 pint oysters Bit of bay leaf
4 cups milk 1/3 cup butter
1 slice onion 1/3 cup flour
2 blades mace Salt and pepper
Clean and pick over oysters, using one-third cup cold water; reserve liquor, and add oysters slightly chopped. Clean and pick over clams, reserve liquor, and add to hard part of clams, finely chopped; put aside soft part of clams. Heat slowly to boiling-point clams and oysters with liquor from both, let simmer twenty minutes and strain through cheesecloth. Thicken with butter and flour cooked together and add soft part of clams. Scald milk with onion, mace, parsley, and
bay leaf; remove seasonings, and add milk to stock. Season with salt and pepper.
89
Cream of Clam Soup
Make same as French Oyster Soup, using clams in place of oysters.
90
Clam Consommé
Wash two quarts clams in shell. Put in kettle with one-fourth cup cold water, cover, and cook until shells open. Strain liquor through double thickness cheesecloth, add to four cups consommé and clear.
91
Clam and Chicken Frappé
Wash and scrub with a brush two quarts clams, changing water several times. Put in kettle with one-half cup cold water, cover tightly, and steam until shells are well opened. Remove clams from shells and strain liquor through double thickness cheesecloth. To one and two-thirds cups clam liquor add two and one-half cups White Stock III, highly seasoned. Cool, and freeze to a mush. Serve in place of a soup in frappé glasses, and garnish with whipped cream.
92
Clam and Tomato Bisque
1 quart clams 2 cups cream
11/2 cups cold water 1 cup stewed and strained tomatoes
1/3 cup butter
1/3 flour 1/3 teaspoon soda
1/2 onion Salt
Cayenne
Pour water over clams, then drain. To water add hard part of clams finely chopped. Heat slowly to boiling-point, cook twenty minutes, then strain. Cook butter with onion five minutes; remove onion, add flour and gradually clam water. Add cream, soft part of clams, and as soon as boiling-point is reached, tomatoes to which soda has been added. Season with salt and cayenne, and serve at once.
93
Oyster Bisque
1 quart oysters Bit of bay leaf
2 cups White Stock III 2 tablespoons butter
11/2 cups stale bread crumbs 2 tablespoons flour
1 slice onion 4 cups scalded milk
2 stalks celery Salt
Sprig of parsley Pepper
Clean and pick over oysters, reserving liquor, setting aside soft portions, and chopping gills and tough muscles. Cook White Stock, bread crumbs, reserved liquor, chopped oyster, onion, celery, parsley, and bay leaf thirty minutes. Rub through a sieve, bring to boiling-point, and bind with butter and flour cooked together. Add milk, soft portion of oysters, and salt and pepper to taste.
94
Cream of Scallop Soup
1 quart scallops 1 tablespoon chopped onion
4 cups milk 5 tablespoons butter
2 cloves 1/4 cup flour
Bit of bay leaf Salt
1/4 teaspoon peppercorns Pepper
Clean scallops, reserve one-half cup and finely chop remainder. Add these to milk, with seasonings and two tablespoons butter, and cook slowly twenty minutes. Strain and thicken with remaining butter and flour cooked together. Parboil reserved scallops, and add to soup. Serve with small biscuits or oysterettes.
95
Lobster Bisque
2 lb. lobster 1/4 cup butter
2 cups cold water 1/4 cup flour
4 cups milk 11/2 teaspoons salt
Few grains of cayenne
Remove meat from lobster shell. Add cold water to body bones and tough end of claws, cut in pieces; bring slowly to boiling-point, and cook twenty minutes. Drain, reserve liquor, and thicken with butter and flour cooked together. Scald milk with tail meat of lobster, finely chopped; strain, and add to liquor. Season with salt and cayenne; then add tender claw meat, cut in dice, and body meat. When coral is found in lobster, wash, wipe, force through fine strainer, put in a mortar with butter, work until well blended, then add flour, and stir into soup. If a richer soup is desired, White Stock may be used in place of water.

EGGS.

COMPOSITION
Proteid, 14.9% Mineral matter, 1%
Fat, 10.6% Water, 73.5%
EGGS, like milk, form a typical food, inasmuch as they contain all the elements, in the right proportion, necessary for the support of the body. Their highly concentrated, nutritive value renders it necessary to use them in combination with other foods rich in starch (bread, potatoes, etc.). In order that the stomach may have enough to act upon, a certain amount of bulk must be furnished. A pound of eggs (nine) is equivalent in nutritive value to a pound of beef. From this it may be seen that eggs, at even twenty-five cents per dozen, should not be freely used by the strict economist. Eggs being rich in proteid serve as a valuable substitute for meat. In most families, their use in the making of cake, custard, puddings, etc., renders them almost indispensable. It is surprising how many intelligent women, who look well to the affairs of the
kitchen, are satisfied to use what are termed “cooking eggs”; this shows poor judgment from an economical standpoint. Strictly fresh eggs should always be used if obtainable. An egg after the first twenty four hours steadily deteriorates. If exposed to air, owing to the porous structure of the shell, there is an evaporation of water, air rushes in, and decomposition takes place. White of egg contains albumen in its purest form. Albumen coagulates at a temperature of from 134° to 160° F. Herein lies the importance of cooking eggs at a low temperature, thus rendering them easy of digestion. Eggs cooked in boiling water are tough and horny, difficult of digestion, and should never be served. When eggs come from the market, they should be washed, and put away in a cold place. Ways of Determining Freshness of Eggs. I. Hold in front of candle flame in dark room, and the centre should look clear. 5
II. Place in basin of cold water, and they should sink. III. Place large end to the cheek, and a warmth should be felt. Ways of Keeping Eggs. I. Pack in sawdust, small end down.II. Keep in lime water. III. Form July to September a large number of eggs are packed, small ends down in cases having compartments, one for each egg, and kept in cold storage. Eggs are often kept in cold storage six months, and then sold as cooking eggs. Boiled Eggs
Have ready a saucepan containing boiling water. Carefully put in with a spoon the number of eggs desired, covering them with water. Remove saucepan to back of range, where water will not boil. Cook from six to eight minutes if liked “soft-boiled,” forty to forty-five if liked “hard-boiled.” Eggs may be cooked by placing in cold water and allowing water to heat gradually until the boiling-point is reached, when they will be “soft boiled.” In using hard-boiled eggs for making other dishes, when taken from the hot water they should be plunged into cold water to prevent, if possible, discoloration of yolks.

Eggs perfectly cooked should be placed and kept in water at a uniform temperature of 175° F. 12
Dropped Eggs (Poached)
Have ready a frying-pan two-thirds full of boiling salted water, allowing one-half tablespoon salt to one quart of water. Put two or three buttered muffin rings in the water. Break each egg separately into a saucer, and carefully slip into a muffin ring. The water should cover the eggs. When there is a film over the top, and the white is firm, carefully remove with a buttered skimmer to circular pieces of buttered toast, and let each person season his own egg with butter, salt, and pepper. If cooked for an invalid, garnish with four toast-points and a bit of parsley. An egg-poacher may be used instead of muffin rings.

Eggs à la Finnoise
Dropped Eggs, served with Tomato Sauce I.

Poached Eggs à la Reine
Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with sliced fresh mushrooms sauted in butter and moistened with cream. Poach eggs and arrange on mushrooms. Pour over all white sauce to which grated Parmesan cheese has been added. Sprinkle with
grated cheese and put in oven to brown. Garnish with canned pimentoes cut in fancy shapes.

Eggs à la Suisse
4 eggs Salt
1/2 cup cream Pepper
1 tablespoon butter Cayenne
2 tablespoons grated cheese
Heat a small omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, add cream. Slip in the eggs one at a time, sprinkle with salt, pepper, and a few grains of cayenne. When whites are nearly firm, sprinkle with cheese. Finish cooking, and serve on buttered toast. Strain cream over the toast.

Eggs Susette
Wash and bake six large potatoes, cut slice from top of each, scoop out inside, and mash. To three cups mashed potato add six tablespoons finely chopped ham, two tablespoons finely chopped parsley, whites of two eggs well beaten, three tablespoons butter, four tablespoons cream, and salt and pepper. Line potato shells with mixture place in each cavity a poached egg, cover with potato mixture, and bake until browned. Care must be taken to have eggs delicately parched.

Baked or Shirred Eggs
Butter an egg-shirrer. Cover bottom and sides with fine cracker crumbs. Break an egg into a cup, and carefully slip into shirrer. Cover with seasoned buttered crumbs, and bake in moderate oven until white is firm and crumbs brown. The shirrers should be placed on a tin plate, that they may be easily removed from the oven.

Eggs may be baked in small tomatoes. Cut a slice from stem end of tomato, scoop out the pulp, slip in an egg, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake. Eggs à la Tripe
Serve dropped eggs on Lobster Croquettes shaped in flat round cakes one-half inch thick. Garnish with lobster claws and parsley.

Eggs à la Benedict
Split and toast English muffins. Sauté circular pieces of cold boiled ham, place these over the halves of muffins, arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around Hollandaise Sauce II , diluted with cream to make of such consistency to pour easily.

Eggs à la Lee
Cover circular pieces of toasted bread with thin slices cold boiled ham. Arrange on each a dropped egg, and pour around

Mushroom Purée. Clean one-fourth pound mushrooms, break caps in pieces, and sauté five minutes in one tablespoon butter. Add one cup chicken stock and simmer five minutes. Rub through a sieve and thicken with one tablespoon each butter and flour cooked together. Season with salt and pepper. Eggs à la Commodore
Cut slices of bread in circular pieces and sauté in butter. Remove a portion of centre, leaving a rim one-fourth inch wide. Spread cavity thus made with pâté de foie gras purée, place a poached egg in each and pour over a rich brown or Béchamel sauce to which is added a few drops vinegar. Garnish with chopped truffles.

Eggs, Waldorf Style
Arrange poached eggs on circular pieces of buttered toast, surround with Brown Mushroom Sauce , and place a broiled mushroom cap on each egg.

Poached Eggs with Sauce Bearnaise
Poach six eggs, arrange in serving dish, cover eggs alternately with red and yellow sauce, and garnish with parsley.

Sauce Bearnaise. Beat yolks three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons olive oil, two tablespoons hot water, three-fourths tablespoon tarragon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens. Color one-half the sauce with Tomato Purée (tomatoes drained from their liquor, stewed, strained, and cooked until reduced to a thick pulp). Scrambled Eggs
5 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk 1/8 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
Beat eggs slightly with silver fork; add salt, pepper, and milk. Heat omelet pan, put in butter, and when melted, turn in the mixture. Cook until of creamy consistency, stirring and scraping from bottom of the pan.

Scrambled Eggs with Tomato Sauce
6 eggs 4 tablespoons butter
13/4 cups tomatoes 1 slice onion
2 teaspoons sugar 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon pepper
Simmer tomatoes and sugar five minutes; fry butter and onion three minutes; remove onion, and add tomatoes, seasonings, and eggs slightly beaten. Cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Serve with entire wheat bread or brown bread toast.

Scrambled Eggs with Anchovy Toast
Spread thin slices of buttered toast with anchovy paste. Arrange on platter, and cover with scrambled eggs.

Eggs à la Buckingham
Make five slices milk toast, and arrange on platter. Use recipe for Scrambled Eggs, having the eggs slightly underdone. Pour eggs over toast, sprinkle with four tablespoons grated mild cheese. Put in oven to melt cheese, and finish cooking eggs.

Eggs à la Turk
Prepare Scrambled Eggs, and pour over six slices of toasted bread. Put one tablespoon Tomato Purée on each piece, and in the centre of purée one-half tablespoon chickens’ livers sautéd in bacon fat.

Eggs à la Livingstone
4 eggs 1/4 teaspoon paprika
1/2 cup stewed and strained tomatoes 2 tablespoons butter
Pâté de foie gras
1/2 teaspoon salt Finely chopped truffles
Beat eggs slightly, and add tomatoes, salt, and paprika. Melt butter in an omelet pan, add seasoned eggs, and cook same as Scrambled Eggs. Spread slices of toasted bread with pâté de foie gras. Pour over the eggs, and sprinkle with truffles.
Scrambled Eggs, Country Style
Heat omelet pan, put in two tablespoons butter, and when melted turn in four unbeaten eggs. Cook until white is partially set, then stir until cooking is completed, when whites will be thoroughly set. Season with salt and pepper.

Buttered Eggs
Heat omelet pan. Put in one tablespoon butter; when melted, slip in an egg, and cook until the white is firm. Turn it over once while cooking. Add more butter as needed, using just enough to keep egg from sticking.

Buttered Eggs with Tomatoes
Cut tomatoes in one-third inch slices. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and sauté in butter. Serve a buttered egg on each slice of tomato.

Planked Eggs
Finely chop cold cooked corned beef or corned tongue; there should be two-thirds cup. Add an equal quantity of fine bread crumbs, moisten with cream and season with salt and pepper. Spread mixture on plank, and make nests and border of duchess potatoes, using rose tube. Put a buttered or poached egg in each nest and put in oven to brown potato. Garnish with tomatoes cut in halves and broiled, and parsley. Eggs may be sprinkled with buttered cracker crumbs, just before sending to oven, if preferred.

Fried Eggs
Fried eggs are cooked as Buttered Eggs, without being turned. In this case the fat is taken by spoonfuls and poured over the eggs. Lard, crisco, pork, ham, or bacon fat are usually employed,—a considerable amount being used.

Eggs à la Goldenrod
3 “hard-boiled” eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt
1 tablespoon butter 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 tablespoon flour 5 slices toast
1 cup milk Parsley
Make a thin white sauce with butter, flour, milk, and seasonings. Separate yolks from whites of eggs. Chop whites finely, and add them to the sauce. Cut four slices of toast in halves lengthwise. Arrange on platter, and pour over the sauce. Force the yolks through a potato ricer or strainer, sprinkling over the top. Garnish with parsley and remaining toast, cut in points.

Eggs au Gratin
Arrange Dropped Eggs on a shallow buttered dish. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan cheese. Pour over eggs one pint Yellow Béchamel Sauce. Cover with stale bread crumbs, and sprinkle with grated cheese. Brown in oven. Tomato or White Sauce may be used.

Eggs in Batter
1 egg 2 tablespoons fine stale bread crumbs
11/2 tablespoons thick cream
1/4 teaspoon salt
Mix cream, bread crumbs, and salt. Put one-half tablespoon of mixture in egg-shirrer. Slip in egg, and cover with remaining mixture. Bake six minutes in moderate oven.

Curried Eggs I
3 “hard-boiled” eggs 1/4 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons butter 1/4 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons flour 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1 cup hot milk
Melt butter, add flour and seasonings, and gradually hot milk. Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, and reheat in sauce.

Curried Eggs II
4 “hard-boiled” eggs 1 teaspoon curry powder
2 tablespoons butter 1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 tablespoon finely chopped onion 1/8 teaspoon paprika
2 tablespoons flour 11/3 cups scalded milk
1/2 cup cooked rice
Chop whites of eggs and add to sauce made of butter, flour, seasonings, and milk, then add rice; heat to boiling-point, fill puff paste cases and sprinkle with yolks of eggs rubbed through a sieve.

Scalloped Eggs
3 “hard-boiled” eggs 3/4 cup chopped cold meat
1 pint White Sauce I 3/4 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Chop eggs finely. Sprinkle bottom of a buttered baking dish with crumbs, cover with one-half the eggs, eggs with sauce, and sauce with meat; repeat. Cover with remaining crumbs. Place in oven on centre grate, and bake until crumbs are brown. Ham is the best meat to use for this dish. Chicken, veal, or fish may be used.

Stuffed Eggs
Cut four “hard-boiled” eggs in halves crosswise; remove yolks, mash, and add two tablespoons grated cheese, one teaspoon vinegar, one-fourth teaspoon mustard, and salt and cayenne to taste. Add enough melted butter to make mixture of the right consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill
whites. Arrange on a serving dish, pour around one cup White Sauce, cover, and reheat.

Stuffed Eggs in a Nest
Cut “hard-boiled” eggs in halves lengthwise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add half the amount of devilled ham and enough melted butter to make of consistency to shape. Make in balls size of original yolks, and refill whites. Form remainder of mixture into a nest. Arrange eggs in the nest, and pour over one cup White Sauce I. Sprinkle with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Eggs à la Sidney
Arrange “hard-boiled” eggs, out in thirds lengthwise, on pieces of toasted bread. Pour over eggs Soubise Sauce.

Eggs Huntington
4 “hard-boiled” eggs 1/3 cup milk
1 tablespoon butter 1/2 teaspoon salt
11/2 tablespoon flour Few grains cayenne
1/3 cup white stock Grated cheese
3/4 cup buttered cracker crumbs
Make a sauce of the butter, flour, stock, and milk; add eggs finely chopped and salt and cayenne. Fill buttered ramequin dishes with mixture, sprinkle with grated cheese, cover with cracker crumbs, and bake in a moderate oven until crumbs are brown.

Egg Farci I
Cuts “hard-boiled” egg in halves, crosswise. Remove yolks, and put whites aside in pairs. Mash yolks, and add equal amount of cold cooked chicken or veal, finely chopped. Moisten with melted butter or Mayonnaise. Season to taste with salt, pepper, lemon juice, mustard, and cayenne. Shape and refill whites.

Egg Farci II
Clean and chop two chickens’ livers, sprinkle with onion juice, and sauté in butter. Add the yolks of four “hard-boiled” eggs rubbed through a sieve, one teaspoon chopped parsley, and salt, pepper, and Tabasco Sauce to taste. Refill whites of eggs with mixture, cover with grated cheese, and bake until cheese melts. Serve in toast rings and pour around Tomato Purée .

Lucanian Eggs
5 “hard-boiled” eggs 13/4 cups White Sauce I
1 cup cooked macaroni Salt and paprika
1/2 cup grated cheese Onion juice
Anchovy sauce 3/4 cup buttered crumbs
Cut eggs in eighths lengthwise, add macaroni, white sauce, and seasonings. Arrange in buttered baking dish, cover with buttered crumbs, and bake until crumbs are brown.

Egg Soufflé
2 tablespoons butter 1 cup cream
2 tablespoons flour 4 eggs
1 cup milk 1 teaspoon salt
Few grains cayenne
Cream the butter, add flour, and pour on gradually scalded milk and cream. Cook in double boiler five minutes, and add yolks of eggs, beaten until thick and lemon-colored. Remove from fire, add seasonings, and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Turn into a buttered dish, or buttered individual moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Egg Soufflé may be served with White Sauce I, highly seasoned with celery salt, paprika, and onion juice.

Egg Timbales
1 tablespoon butter 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 tablespoon flour 1/2 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup milk 1/8 teaspoon pepper
3 eggs Few grains celery salt
Few grains cayenne
Make a sauce of the butter, flour, and milk; add yolks beaten until thick and lemon-colored, then add seasonings. Beat whites of eggs until stiff and dry, and cut and fold into first mixture. Turn into buttered moulds, set in pan of hot water, and bake in a slow oven until firm. Serve with Tomato Cream Sauce .

Egg Croquettes
6 eggs Salt
2 tablespoons butter Pepper
1 slice onion Yolks 3 eggs
1/3 cup flour Stale bread crumbs
1 cup white stock Grated cheese
Poach eggs and dry on a towel. Cook butter with onion three minutes. Add flour and, gradually, stock. Season with salt and pepper; then add yolks of eggs slightly beaten. Cook one minute, and cool. Cover eggs with mixture, roll in bread crumbs and cheese, using equal parts, dip in egg, again roll in crumbs, fry in deep fat, and drain on brown paper. These may be served with a thin sauce, using equal parts of white stock and cream, and seasoning with grated cheese, salt, and paprika.

Eggs à la Juliette
Decorate egg-shaped individual moulds with truffles, and cold boiled tongue cut in fancy shapes, and pistachio nuts blanched and split. Line mould with aspic jelly, drop in a poached egg yolk, cover with aspic jelly, let stand until firm, and turn on a thin oval slice of cold boiled tongue.

Eggs à la Parisienne
Butter small timbale moulds, sprinkle with finely chopped truffles, parsley, and cooked beets. Break eggs, and slip one into each mould, sprinkle with salt and pepper, set in pan of hot water, and cook until egg is firm. Remove from moulds on octagon slices of toast, and pour around Tomato Sauce II .

Eggs Mornay
Break egg and slip into buttered egg-shirrers, allowing one or two eggs to each shirrer, according to size. Cover with White Sauce II , seasoned with one-third
cup grated cheese, paprika, and yolks two eggs; cover with grated cheese and bake until firm.

Omelets
For omelets select large eggs, allowing one egg for each person, and one tablespoon liquid for each egg. Keep an omelet pan especially for omelets, and see that it is kept clean and smooth. A frying-pan may be used in place of omelet pan.

Plain Omelet
4 eggs 4 tablespoons hot water
1/2 teaspoon salt 1 tablespoon butter
Few grains pepper 11/2 cups Thin White Sauce
Separate yolks from whites. To yolks add salt, pepper, and hot water and beat until thick and lemon-colored. Beat whites until stiff, cutting and folding them into first mixture until they have taken up mixture. Heat omelet pan, and butter sides and bottom. Turn in mixture, spread evenly, place on range where it will cook slowly, occasionally turning the pan that omelet may brown evenly. When well “puffed” and delicately browned underneath, place pan on centre grate of oven to finish cooking the top. The omelet is cooked if it is firm to the touch when pressed by the finger. If it clings to the finger like the beaten white of egg, it needs longer cooking. Fold, and turn on hot plater, and pour around one and one-half cups Thin White Sauce

Milk is sometimes used in place of hot water, but hot water makes a more tender omelet. A few grains baking powder are used by some cooks to hold up an omelet. To Fold and Turn an Omelet
Hold an omelet pan by handle with the left hand. With a case knife make two one-half inch incisions opposite each other at right angles to handle. Place knife under the part of omelet nearest handle, tip pan to nearly a vertical position; by carefully coaxing the omelet with knife, it will fold and turn without breaking. Omelet with Meat or Vegetables
Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in remnants of finely chopped cooked chicken, veal, or ham. Remnants of fish may be flaked and added to White Sauce; or cooked peas, asparagus, or cauliflower may be added.

Oyster Omelet
Mix and cook Plain Omelet. Fold in one pint oysters, parboiled, drained from their liquor, and cut in halves. Turn on platter, and pour around Thin White Sauce.

Orange Omelet
3 eggs 1 teaspoon lemon juice
2 tablespoons powdered sugar 2 oranges
Few grains salt 1/2 tablespoon butter
21/2 tablespoons orange juice
Follow directions for Plain Omelet. Remove skin from oranges and cut in slices, lengthwise. Fold in one-third of the slices of orange, well sprinkled with powdered sugar; put remaining slices around omelet, and sprinkle with sugar.

Jelly Omelet
Mix and cook Plain Omelet, omitting pepper and one-half the salt, and adding one tablespoon sugar. Spread before folding with jam, jelly, or marmalade. Fold, turn, and sprinkle with sugar.

Bread Omelet
4 eggs 3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup milk 1/8 teaspoon pepper
1/2 cup stale bread crumbs 1 tablespoon butter
Soak bread crumbs fifteen minutes in milk, add beaten yolks and seasonings, fold in whites. Cook and serve as Plain Omelet.

French Omelet
4 eggs 1/2 teaspoon salt
4 tablespoons milk 1/3 teaspoon pepper
2 tablespoons butter
Beat eggs slightly, just enough to blend yolks and whites, add the milk and seasonings. Put butter in hot omelet pan; when melted, turn in the mixture; as it cooks, prick and pick up with a fork until the whole is of creamy consistency. Place on hotter part of range that it may brown quickly underneath. Fold, and turn on hot platter.

Omelet with Croûtons
1 cup bread cut in 1/3 inch cubes 4 tablespoons cream
Butter 1/2 teaspoon salt
5 eggs 1/8 teaspoon pepper
Fry cubes of bread in butter until well browned and crisp. Beat eggs slightly, add cream, salt, pepper, and croûtons. Put two tablespoons butter in hot omelet pan, and as soon as melted and slightly browned turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet.

Eggs with Spinach à la Martin
Cover the centre of a platter with finely chopped and seasoned cooked spinach. Beat three eggs slightly, add three tablespoons hot water, one-third teaspoon salt, one tablespoon, each, red and green pepper cut in strips, and one tablespoon cooked ham cut in very small pieces. Heat Omelet pan, put in one and one-half tablespoons olive oil, and as soon as heated pour in mixture. Cook same as French Omelet and turn on to spinach. Garnish with parsley.

Spanish Omelet
Mix and cook a French Omelet. Serve with Tomato Sauce in the centre and around omelet.

Tomato Sauce. Cook two tablespoons of butter with one tablespoon of finely chopped onion, until yellow. Add one and three-fourths cups tomatoes, and cook until moisture has nearly evaporated. Add one tablespoon sliced mushrooms, one tablespoon capers, one-fourth teaspoon salt, and a few grains cayenne. This is improved by a small piece of red or green pepper, finely chopped, cooked with butter and onion. 
Rich Omelet
21/2 tablespoons flour 1 cup milk
3/4 teaspoon salt 3 eggs
3 tablespoons butter
Mrs. E. A. Dwinell
Mix salt and flour, and add gradually milk. Beat eggs until thick and lemon-colored, then add to first mixture. Heat iron frying-pan and put in two-thirds of the butter; when butter is melted, pour in mixture. As it cooks, life with a griddle-cake turner so that uncooked part may run underneath; add remaining butter as needed, and continue lifting the cooked part until it is firm throughout. Place on hotter part of range to brown; roll, and turn on hot platter.

Omelette Robespierre
3 eggs 1 tablespoon powdered sugar
3 tablespoons hot water 1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Beat eggs slightly, and add remaining ingredients. Put one and one-half tablespoons butter in a hot omelet pan, turn in mixture and cook same as French Omelet. Fold, turn on a hot platter, sprinkle with powdered sugar, and score with a hot poker.

Almond Omelet, Caramel Sauce
3 eggs Few grains salt
3 tablespoons caramel sauce 1/2 teaspoon vanilla
Beat yolks of eggs until thick and lemon-colored, add caramel, salt, and vanilla, and cut and fold in whites of eggs beaten until stiff and dry. Put three-fourths tablespoon butter in a hot omelet pan, cover bottom of pan with shredded almonds, turn in mixture, and cook and fold same as Plain Omelet. Pour around

Caramel Sauce. Pour one cup sugar in omelet pan, and stir constantly, over hot part of range, until melted to a light brown syrup. Add three-fourths cup hot water, and let simmer ten minutes.