CHIPPED POTATOES

CHIPPED POTATOES
Take some long−shaped potatoes, peel them and smooth them with the knife. Cut them into very thin rounds.
Heat the grease pretty hot, dry the slices of potato with a cloth, put them into the frying basket and plunge
them into the fat. When they are colored, take the basket out, let the fat heat up again to a slightly higher
temperature, and re−plunge the basket, so that the slices become quite crisp. Serve with coarse salt sprinkled
over.

Kofte kebab Lamb kebabs with white bean and tomato salad

Serves 4–6
2 garlic cloves, halved
a little olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp paprika
1 tsp cayenne pepper
1lb (450g) ground lamb
handful of flat-leaf parsley leaves,
coarsely chopped
handful of fresh cilantro leaves,
coarsely chopped
½ cup unsalted pistachio nuts,
coarsely chopped
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the salad
1 cup dried cannellini beans
2 garlic cloves, peeled but left whole
½ bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked
and chopped (stalks reserved)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp ground cumin
2 ripe tomatoes, cut into ½in (1cm) dice
1To make the salad, soak the beans overnight in a large bowl of cold water.
Drain and rinse under cold running water. Put into a large heavy pot, and
cover with fresh cold water. Add the garlic, reserved parsley stalks, and a splash
of olive oil. Do not add salt. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for
1 hour 20 minutes to 1 hour 40 minutes, or until the beans are tender but still
slightly firm to the bite. Drain off the liquid. Stir in the vinegar, extra virgin olive oil,
and cumin to the beans. Season well with salt and pepper. Let sit for about 20
minutes to blend the flavors. Stir in the tomatoes and parsley just before serving.
2To make the kebabs, soak the bamboo skewers in cold water for at least
30 minutes so they do not burn. Crush the garlic with a little salt to make a
paste. Heat a little oil in a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook the onion
for 4 minutes or until soft. Add the garlic, cumin, paprika, and cayenne, and cook
for a couple of minutes longer, or until fragrant. Remove from the heat, transfer to
a bowl, and let cool for 5 minutes. Add the lamb, parsley, cilantro, and pistachios.
Season well. Mold the lamb mixture onto one end of the skewer, making a cylinder
of meat around roughly half its length. Heat a little oil in a large heavy frying pan
over medium-high heat. Cook the kofte kebabs in batches until golden brown all
over. Drain on paper towels. Serve with the salad and lots of fresh crusty bread.

Lahem bil ajine Lebanese lamb pizza

Makes 15–20
1 recipe of yeast dough (see p164),
kneaded until elastic and shiny
2 tbsp olive oil
4 onions, finely chopped
8 large plum tomatoes
1lb (450g) ground lamb
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp Lebanese spice mix (see p218)
1 tbsp tomato purée
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
1 tsp brown sugar
3½oz (100g) pine nuts
small handful of fresh cilantro,
coarsely chopped
small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley,
coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Greek-style yogurt or tahini, for serving
lemon wedges, for serving
1Prepare the dough following the instructions on p164. To make the
topping, heat the oil in a large heavy frying pan, sauté pan, or Dutch oven,
over medium-high heat. Add the onions and cook for 4 minutes until soft but
not too brown.
2Meanwhile, cut the tomatoes in half. Hold one of the halves with the skin side
in the palm of your hand. Using a large grater, grate the flesh of the tomato.
(This is a great way of making tomato pulp without having to blanch and peel the
tomatoes; the skin remains in your hand and can be discarded.) Set aside.
3Add the lamb to the onion mixture, and cook for 4–5 minutes until browned,
breaking up any large pieces of meat with a spatula. Season with the spices
and a good amount of salt and pepper. Add the grated tomato pulp, tomato
purée, pomegranate molasses, and sugar. Cook for another 5 minutes or until any
liquid has evaporated. Stir in the pine nuts, cilantro, and flat-leaf parsley. Taste and
adjust the seasoning as needed. Remove from the heat, and let the mixture cool.
4Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 425°F (220°C). Break the dough off into
15–20 equal-sized balls. Roll each ball into rounds or oval shapes on a
floured work surface. Lightly spread the meat and pine nut filling onto the rolled
pastry, leaving a border around the edge. Place the pizzas on one or more oiled
baking sheets, and bake for 12–15 minutes or until the pastry is crisp and
golden. Serve at once, with a little yogurt or tahini spooned over the top, or
simply served with a wedge of lemon.

Qesbur sharmula hut Coriander marinated fish

Serves 4–6
1 large white firm-fleshed fish such
as bass, snapper, or sea bream
(porgy), about 4½lb (2kg)
3 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
3 tbsp olive oil
½ cup finely chopped onion
3 tomatoes, coarsely chopped
2 fresh green jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 bunch cilantro leaves, coarsely chopped
4 lemons
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Clean the inside of the fish and season
with salt and pepper, a little of the garlic, and some of the spices, rubbing
inside and out. Heat a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat and add a little
oil. Cook the fish quickly on both sides until golden brown. Carefully lift from the
pan and place in an ovenproof dish.
2Add a little extra oil to the same frying pan, and cook the remaining garlic
and spices. Add the onion and tomato. Add most of the chopped cilantro,
the green chilies, and the juice of 3 of the lemons. Cook for 3–4 minutes. Stuff
the fish with the onion mixture; spoon any remaining mixture over the fish.
Cover with foil and bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes until cooked through,
depending upon the size of the fish. To check, insert a fork into the dense
meat at the back of the head. If the meat is white and flaky, the fish is done.
(Remember, when a piece of fish or meat is taken from the oven, it will
continue to cook from the residual heat.)
3To serve, garnish with the remaining chopped cilantro and the juice of the
remaining lemon. The spices, green chilies, and lemon work together to cut
the richness of the fish. This dish is delicious whether eaten hot, warm, or cold,
accompanied by freshly cooked vegetables and salads, and freshly-baked bread.

POMMES CHÂTEAU

POMMES CHÂTEAU
Take twenty potatoes, turn them with a knife into olive shape, boil them in salted water for five minutes; drain
them and put them on a baking−tin with salt and butter or dripping. Cook them in a very hot oven for thirty
minutes, moving them about from time to time. Sprinkle on a little chopped parsley before serving.

Labneh Yogurt cream cheese dip

Serves 8 as a dip or part of a mezze
3½ cups sheep’s or goat’s milk yogurt
1 tsp salt
1 tbsp olive oil
paprika or ground cumin, to garnish
1Place the yogurt in a bowl with the salt. Whisk together to blend. Place
a colander in the sink, and line with a clean fine-weave wet cloth such as
muslin or cheesecloth, or even a finely woven dishcloth. Pour in the yogurt, and
tie the corners of the cloth around the faucet. Let the liquid drain from the cloth
for about 12 hours or overnight.
2To serve, transfer the drained yogurt to a serving bowl. Mix the olive oil, and
scatter a little paprika or cumin over the top as a garnish. Enjoy as a dip
with lots of fresh bread or as one of a number of dishes served mezze-style.
Don’t be deceived by the simple recipe and method; the flavor of the yogurt is
completely transformed.

Shlada al falfla hamra al khizzou Carrot and orange salad with paprika dressing

Serves 4–6
3 tbsp sesame seeds
3 or 4 generous handfuls of arugula or
lettuce leaves
1lb (450g) carrots, peeled and grated
2 oranges, peeled, bitter white pith
removed, and flesh cut into segments
juice of 1 lemon
30 fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves,
coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Paprika dressing
1 tsp honey
¼ tsp salt
1 tbsp water
½ tsp paprika
1 tsp mustard
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
freshly ground black pepper
1Roast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan over medium-high heat for a few
minutes; take care they do not burn. Remove from the heat.
2Arrange the arugula in a bowl with the carrot and orange segments. Season
with salt and pepper. Squeeze the lemon juice over the top, and sprinkle
with the flat-leaf parsley.
3Place all the ingredients for the dressing in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid,
add 1 tbsp water, and shake to blend thoroughly. Pour over the salad, and
garnish with the toasted sesame seeds.

Harira Spicy bean soup

Serves 6
½ cup dried chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
½ cup dried cannellini beans or fava beans
or butter beans
½ cup dried split green peas
1 tsp baking soda
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tbsp cumin seeds
2 small dried chilies
1 tsp ground cloves
½ tsp cayenne pepper
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled
and grated
3 garlic cloves
olive oil for cooking
1 cinnamon stick
3 onions, finely chopped
8 ripe tomatoes, coarsely grated (see tip
in method on p173)
½ cup red or yellow lentils, picked and rinsed
juice of 1 lemon plus a little extra to finish
½ bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves coarsely
chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Soak the chickpeas and cannellini beans overnight in plenty of cold water.
The split green peas need only be soaked for 2 hours. Drain and rinse the
chickpeas and beans. Put in a large pan, cover with lots of cold water, and add
the baking soda. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat, and simmer
for 40–60 minutes until the beans are cooked, but not mushy. As they are
simmering, skim off any scum that rises to the top. Drain and rinse.
2Meanwhile, using a pestle and mortar, grind the coriander seeds, cumin
seeds, and dried chilies into a fine powder. Add the cloves, cayenne pepper,
ginger, and garlic, and work into a paste. Heat 2 tbsp oil in a heavy pan over
medium-high heat. Add the spice mixture and cinnamon stick. Cook for
2 minutes, stirring frequently, until fragrant. Reduce the heat to medium, add the
onion, and cook for about 10 minutes until the onion starts to brown. Add the
tomato pulp; cook until any excess liquid has evaporated. Rinse the split green
peas, mix into the tomato mixture with the lentils. Next add 7 cups water. Bring to
a boil, reduce the heat, and simmer for 20 minutes. Add the rinsed chickpeas
and beans. Mix together. Season well and add the lemon juice. Add half the
cilantro. Let the soup sit off the heat for 5 minutes, then check the seasoning.
3To serve, garnish with the remaining cilantro and a little extra squeeze of
lemon juice. This soup can be eaten hot or warm at any time of the year.

Baba ghanoush Smoky roast eggplant dip

Serves 4–6
3 eggplants
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
pinch of salt
1 tbsp tahini (sesame seed paste)
½ tsp cayenne pepper
juice of ½ lemon
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp crème fraîche
or Greek-style yogurt
freshly ground black pepper
1Place the eggplants either directly on a preheated grill or under a very hot
broiler. Roast the eggplants for 10–12 minutes until the skin is blistered and
charred on all sides. Keep turning the eggplants with tongs while they are
cooking. Remove from the heat and place in a bowl. Cover with plastic wrap and
let cool. (As the eggplants cool, steam is trapped, which in turn continues to
cook the eggplants and helps loosen the charred skin.) When the eggplants are
cool, remove from the bowl and pull away and discard the blackened skin. Cut
the peeled eggplants into chunks.
2Crush the garlic with a pinch of salt. Put the garlic and eggplant flesh into
the food processor. Add the tahini and season with the cayenne, salt, and
pepper. Process until smooth, then add the lemon juice. With the motor running,
gradually add the olive oil in a thin, steady stream to make a paste (similar to
making mayonnaise). When it is all combined, stir in the crème fraîche.
3Check the seasoning. There should be a smoky sweetness from the roasted
eggplant, while the tahini and salt provide a savory component. The lemon
juice and crème fraîche are sour, and the black pepper is hot and peppery. Adjust
the seasoning as necessary. Serve in a bowl as an accompaniment to other
dishes, or as a dip with lots of fresh bread.

GOURMANDS' MUSHROOMS

GOURMANDS' MUSHROOMS
There was a man in Ghent who loved mushrooms, but he could only eat them done in this fashion. If you said,
"Monsieur, will you have them tossed in butter?" he would roar out, "No−−do you take me for a Prussian? Let
me have them properly cooked."
Melt in a pan a lump of butter the size of a tangerine orange and squeeze on it the juice of half a lemon. The
way to get a great deal of juice from a lemon is to plunge it first of all for a few minutes, say five minutes, in
boiling water. When the butter simmers, throw in a pound of picked small mushrooms, stir them constantly,
do not let them get black. Then in three or four minutes they are well impregnated with butter, and the chief
difficulty of the dish is over. Put the saucepan further on the fire, let it boil for a few minutes. Take out the
mushrooms, drain them, sprinkle them with flour, moisten them with gravy, season with salt and pepper, put
them back in the butter and stir in the yolk of an egg. Add also a little of the lemon juice that remains. While
you are doing this you must get another person to cut and toast some bread and to butter it. Pour on to the
bread the mushrooms (which are fit for the greatest saints to eat on Fridays), and serve them very hot.

Fatayer bisabanikh Spinach pastries

Makes 25–30 pastries
For the pastry
2 envelopes (¼oz each) active dry yeast
3½ cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp olive oil
For the filling
2lb (900g) spinach, stems discarded,
rinsed, and drained in a colander
1 pomegranate
3 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely grated or very finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
¾ cup pine nuts
¾ cup walnuts
1 tsp ground sumac (optional)
juice of 1½ lemons
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1To make the pastry, mix the yeast in a small bowl with a spoonful of the flour
and a small amount of water to make a paste. Stir in ½ cup lukewarm water,
and let sit in a warm place for 10 minutes. Sift the flour and salt into a large bowl.
Make a well in the center, add the oil and the yeast mixture, and mix together.
Gradually add another ½ cup lukewarm water until incorporated. Turn the dough
onto a floured surface. Knead for 15 minutes until shiny and elastic. Form into a
ball, and place in a lightly oiled large bowl. Cover with plastic wrap or a clean
towel. Let rise in a warm place for about 2 hours until it doubles in volume.
2Chop the spinach leaves and squeeze dry. Remove the seeds from the
pomegranate (see tip on p36), and put in a bowl with the juice. Heat the oil
in a heavy pan over medium-low heat. Add the onion and cook for 3–5 minutes
until soft. Push to one side of the pan. Add the garlic, pine nuts, and walnuts.
Increase the heat to medium and cook the garlic and nuts until golden brown.
Mix the nuts into the onion mixture, and reduce the heat. Add the spinach and
cook for 2–3 minutes until wilted. Add the sumac (if using), pomegranate seeds,
and lemon juice. Check the seasoning. Remove from the heat and set aside.
3Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Break off the pieces of dough and form
into 25–30 equal-sized balls. Roll into thin discs on a floured work surface.
Put a teaspoon of filling in the center of each disc (don’t include too much liquid).
Bring up the sides of the dough to form a three-sided packet, pinch the edges
together firmly, and place on an oiled baking sheet. Bake in the oven for 5 minutes,
then reduce the temperature to 350°F (180°C). Bake for 15 minutes longer.

Kebab b’il karaz Lamb meatballs with sour cherry sauce

Serves 6–8
¾ cup pitted dried sour (tart) cherries
1 tbsp sugar
1 tbsp pomegranate molasses
juice of 1 lemon
For the meatballs
2 garlic cloves, halved and any green inner
shoots removed
2 small dried red chilies, finely chopped
2 tsp ground coriander
pinch of salt
a little olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1lb (450g) ground lamb
½ bunch flat-leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
freshly ground black pepper
1Put the dried cherries in a heavy pan. Add 1 cup water and the sugar and
pomegranate molasses. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer
gently for 30 minutes until the sauce is thick and syrupy. When reduced, add the
lemon juice and taste, adjusting the seasoning if necessary (bearing in mind that
the meatballs will be salty, rich, and peppery-hot).
2Meanwhile, make the meatballs. Crush the garlic, dried chilies, and ground
coriander with a pinch of salt to make a paste. Heat a heavy frying pan over
medium-high heat and add a little olive oil. Cook the paste for about 2 minutes
until fragrant. Add the onion and sauté quickly, stirring, for 4 minutes. Remove
from the heat, and transfer the onion mixture to a bowl with the lamb. Add the
parsley and season well with salt and pepper. Roll the meat into small balls
about the size of cherry tomatoes.
3Heat a clean heavy pan over medium-high heat. Add a little olive oil, and
cook the meatballs in small batches until golden brown all over. Drain on
paper towels. Add the meatballs to the cherry sauce. Cook for a couple of
minutes to blend the flavors. Serve as part of a large meal, as one of many
dishes of simple grilled and marinated meats, vegetables, with lots of bread.
Sour cherries The fresh sour cherries that are traditionally used for this dish
are of such good quality that they are a bit difficult to come by unless you have
a good Persian, Iranian, Turkish, or Lebanese grocer nearby. Dried sour cherries
make a perfect substitute and are available from supermarkets.

Dzhazh garfa pilaf bil iluz Eastern jeweled pilaf with cinnamon and almonds

Serves 8
¼ cup olive oil
3 cinnamon sticks
6 green cardamom pods
10 black peppercorns
3 onions, finely chopped
1 cup tomato juice
2 medium chickens, each disjointed into at
least 4 pieces
3 cups long-grain white rice, rinsed
½ tsp ground turmeric
½ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ tsp ground cardamom
1½ tbsp butter
½ cup almonds
½ cup raisins
¼ cup chopped dates
½ tsp saffron threads, crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Preheat the broiler until medium-hot. Heat a heavy pan over medium-high
heat and add 1 tbsp of the olive oil. Add the whole spices—cinnamon sticks,
cardamom pods, and peppercorns—and cook for a couple of minutes, stirring,
until fragrant. Add about one-third of the onion and cook until soft and barely
golden. Add the tomato juice and 3½ cups water, season with salt, and bring to
a boil. Reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and add the chicken pieces; cook
gently for about 10 minutes. Remove the chicken from the broth, sprinkle the
chicken with half the ground spices, and set aside.
2Pour the rice into the broth. Cook over high heat until the liquid is almost
absorbed, then reduce heat to low and continue cooking until tender.
Remove from the heat and let sit, covered, until needed.
3Place the chicken on a baking sheet, and cook, turning once, under the
broiler until golden brown all over. In a separate frying pan, melt half the
butter and fry the almonds until golden brown. Transfer to a small bowl. Cook
the raisins and dates in the same pan. When soft, add to the almonds. Melt the
remaining butter, and cook the remaining onion until golden brown. Add the rest
of the ground spices and the saffron to the onion. Season with salt and pepper.
4To serve, stir the onion mixture into the rice with half the almond and fruit
mixture. Place the rice in a dish with the chicken pieces on top. Scatter
the remaining almond and fruit mixture over the top.

STUFFED CAULIFLOWER

STUFFED CAULIFLOWER
Pick over a fine cauliflower, and plunge it for a moment in boiling water. Look over it well again and remove
any grit or insects. Put it head downwards in a pan when you have already placed a good slice of fat bacon at
the bottom and sides. In the holes between the pan and the vegetable put a stuffing of minced meat, with
breadcrumbs, yolks of eggs, mushrooms, seasoning of the usual kinds, in fact, a good forcemeat. Press this
well in, and pour over it a thin gravy. Let it cook gently, and when the gravy on the top has disappeared put a
dish on the top of the saucepan, turn it upside down and slip the cauliflower out. Serve very hot.

Salatet semsum Sesame salad

Serves 6 as part of a mezze
1 garlic clove
large pinch of sea salt
½ cup tahini (sesame seed paste)
1 tbsp white vinegar
3 cucumbers, cut into small cubes
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
30 flat-leaf parsley leaves, chopped
½ tsp coarse-ground black pepper
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
2 tbsp sesame seeds, toasted
1Crush the garlic with the salt until smooth. Add the tahini, and stir in the
white vinegar until the mixture reaches the consistency of yogurt. Stir in the
cucumber, scallions, parsley, and pepper. Add the remaining olive oil and the
lemon juice, tossing gently to mix.
2Serve alongside kofte kebab or grilled chicken, garnished
with the toasted sesame seeds.

COOKED LETTUCE

COOKED LETTUCE
Very often you will find that you cannot use all your lettuces, that they have begun to bolt and are no good for
salad. This is the moment to cook them. Discard any bad leaves and wash the others carefully. Boil them for
twelve minutes, take them off the fire, drain them and dry them in a clean cloth so as to get rid of all the
water. Mince them finely, then put them into a saucepan with a lump of butter, pepper and salt. Stir till they
begin to turn color, then put in a thimbleful of flour melted in milk. Stir constantly, and if the vegetable
becomes dry, moisten with more flour and milk. Let it simmer for quarter of an hour, and turn it out as a
vegetable with meat.

Salatet kousa Zucchini salad

Serves 4–6
21⁄4lb (1kg) small zucchini, ends trimmed
(they should be not much longer than a
man’s index finger)
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, crushed
2 tsp paprika
½ tsp ground cumin
½ tsp chili powder
3 tbsp lemon juice
30 flat-leaf parsley leaves, coarsely chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cut the zucchini into quarters lengthwise. (Do not use zucchini that are
too thick because the inside will not be firm, but rather full of watery seeds. If
small zucchini are not available, cut the outside flesh away from the central core
of the zucchini and discard the central core of seeds.)
2Heat a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Add a little oil and cook
the zucchini in batches until golden brown on both sides. (Cooking in
batches helps to ensure that the temperature of the pan does not drop, which
would result in the vegetables steaming or boiling in their own juices. Also, do
not overcook, otherwise the zucchini will be soggy.)
3Meanwhile, crush the garlic with a little salt and combine with the spices,
the remaining olive oil, and the lemon juice. Place the cooked zucchini in
a bowl, and cover with the dressing. Let sit for 1 hour to blend flavors before
serving. Taste and adjust the seasoning as needed, then garnish with the parsley.
Serve with grilled meat or fish, or as part of a selection of mezze to start the meal.

Turshi zardak Carrot pickle

Makes 4 large jars
1 tbsp olive oil
6 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 fresh red jalapeño or serrano chilies,
seeded and finely chopped
1 tsp cayenne pepper
2 tsp ground cumin
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground allspice
6½lb (3kg) carrots, peeled and finely grated
2½ cups sugar
2 cups malt vinegar
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat the oil in a heavy Dutch oven or other large saucepan over mediumhigh
heat for 2–3 minutes. Add the garlic and chilies, and cook for a couple
of minutes until fragrant. Sprinkle in the cayenne pepper, cumin, coriander, and
allspice. Cook for another minute or two. Add the carrot, sugar, and vinegar, and
simmer gently over low heat for 40 minutes to 1 hour, or until the excess liquid
has evaporated and the mixture is thick and syrupy. Season with salt and pepper.
The pickle should be hot and spicy, but sweet with a pronounced sourness.
2Spoon the pickle into sterilized glass jars with tight-fitting lids. Seal while the
pickle is still hot, to create a vacuum. Let sit at least 24 hours for the flavors
to blend before using. Store in a cool, dark place.

Fattoush Toasted pita bread salad

Serves 4–6
2 large pita bread, broken into pieces and
toasted lightly
juice of about 1½ lemons
2 garlic cloves
4 ripe plum tomatoes, halved, seeded, and
cut into ½in (1cm) dice
1 cucumber, halved, seeded, and cut into
½in (1cm) dice
1 tbsp ground sumac (available in
Middle Eastern markets)
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
handful of fresh arugula leaves
½ bunch of flat-leaf parsley leaves
½ bunch of mint leaves
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Place the toasted bread pieces in a large bowl. Add the juice of ½ lemon,
and season well with salt and pepper.
2Crush the garlic cloves with a little salt until you have a smooth purée. In
a small bowl, combine the tomato and cucumber with the garlic purée.
Season with salt and pepper, the sumac, and some more lemon juice. Add to the
toasted bread, along with the scallions, arugula, parsley, and mint. Drizzle in the
olive oil and toss gently to mix.
3Taste the salad, adding more lemon if needed. It should be sour from the
lemon juice and peppery hot from the arugula and seasoning. The tomatoes
and cucumber will be sweet, and the sumac is a grand spice that is purple in
color and provides an essential lemony, peppery element to the flavor of the
salad. Serve at once, as the lemon juice will begin to discolor the greens.

ASPARAGUS À L'ANVERS

ASPARAGUS À L'ANVERS
Clean a bunch of asparagus and cook it in salt water for fifteen minutes. To do this successfully, tie the bunch
round with some tape and place it upright in a pan of boiling water. Let the heads be above the water so that
they will get cooked by the steam and will not be broken. Simmer in this way to prevent them moving much.
Meanwhile, hard−boil three eggs and chop some parsley. Lay the asparagus on a dish and sprinkle parsley
over it, place round the sides the eggs cut in halves long−ways, and serve as well a sauce−boat of melted
butter.

RED CABBAGE

RED CABBAGE
Take half a red cabbage of medium size, chop it very finely and put it in a pan; add a little water, salt, and
pepper, three or four potatoes cut in fine slices and five lumps of sugar. Let it all simmer for two hours with
the lid on. Then take off the cover and let it reduce. Before serving it, add either a bit of fat pork or some
gravy, with a dessert− spoonful of vinegar. Stir it well before sending it to table.

POTATOES AND CHEESE

POTATOES AND CHEESE
Every one likes this nourishing dish, and it is a cheap one. Peel some potatoes and cut them in rounds. In a
fireproof dish put a layer of these, sprinkle them with flour, grated cheese, pepper, salt, a few pats of butter.
Then some more potatoes, and so on till the dish is full. Beat the yolks of two eggs in a pint of milk, add
pepper and salt and pour it over the dish. Leave it on the top of the stove for five minutes, then cook it for
half−an−hour in a moderate oven. Less time may be required if the dish is small, but the potatoes must be
thoroughly cooked. The original recipe directs Gruyère cheese, but red or pale Canadian Cheddar could be
used.

FRIDAY'S FEAST

FRIDAY'S FEAST
Cook a medium cabbage till it is tender, and all the better if you can cook it in some soup. When tender,
mince it and rub it through a sieve. Boil at the same time three pounds of chestnuts, skin them, keep ten
whole, and rub the others through the sieve, adding a little milk to make a purée. Mix the purée with the
cabbage, adding salt, pepper, and a lump of butter the size of a chestnut. Press it into a mold and cook it in a
double saucepan for quarter of an hour. Take it out and decorate with the whole chestnuts.

A SALAD OF TOMATOES

A SALAD OF TOMATOES
To make a tomato salad you must not slice the fruit in a dish and then pour on it a little vinegar and then a
little oil; that is not salad −−that is ignorance.
Take some red tomatoes, and, if you can procure them, some golden ones also. Plunge each for a moment in
boiling water, peel off the skin, but carefully, so as not to cut through the flesh with the juice. Take some raw
onion cut in slices; if you do not like the strong taste, use shallot; and lay four or five flat slices on the bottom
of the salad dish. Put the tomato slices over them, sprinkle with salt and just a dust of castor sugar. In four
hours lift the tomatoes and remove the onions altogether. Make in a cup the following sauce: Dissolve a
salt−spoonful of salt in a teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar. Stir in a dessert−spoonful of oil, dropping it slowly
in, add a very little mustard, some pepper and a sprinkle of chopped chervil. Some people like chopped
chives. Pour this over the tomato salad and leave it for an hour at least before serving it.

Kadu Roast pumpkin paste

Serves 6–8
1 sweet, firm-fleshed pumpkin or butternut
squash, about 2¼lb (1kg)
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tbsp ground coriander
2 tbsp olive oil
juice of ½ lemon
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Roast the pumpkin whole on a baking sheet in a preheated 400°F (200°C)
oven until soft and caramelized, about 40 minutes to an hour, depending on
the size. Do not make any cuts or incisions in the flesh because you will lose juice
and flavor. Let the pumpkin cool, then cut in half. Scoop out the seeds and
discard, then remove the soft cooked flesh and mash. Cut up about one-third of
the cooked pumpkin skin. Chop finely, and mix with the pumpkin flesh.
2Mix the garlic with the ground coriander. Heat a heavy frying pan and add
the olive oil. Cook the garlic and coriander until fragrant. Add the cooked
pumpkin mixture and season well with salt and pepper. Add the lemon juice and
taste. Adjust the seasoning as necessary. The flavors will be sweet and nutty,
with a background of heat from the pepper, garlic, and coriander. The lemon
juice provides the mixture with an edge and definition. The pumpkin flesh will
be sweet and bland, and can take a lot of seasoning.

Kofte samak Harissa mini fish cakes with preserved lemon

Serves 4–6
1 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 tbsp coriander seeds, crushed
1 tsp paprika
1lb (450g) firm white fish fillets (such as
hake, snapper, sea bream (porgy), or
cod), skin and bones removed
rind of ½ preserved lemon, any white pith
removed and rind finely diced (see below)
4 scallions (green onions), thinly sliced
½ bunch of fresh cilantro, coarsely chopped
2 tsp harissa sauce (available in cans or jars
in Middle Eastern markets)
1 egg
juice of ½ lemon
vegetable oil for frying
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1In a small pan, heat the olive oil and cook the garlic and coriander seeds until
golden brown and fragrant. Stir in the paprika and remove from the heat.
2Put the fish in a food processor with the aromatic cooked spice mixture, the
preserved lemon rind, scallions, and cilantro. Add in the harissa and egg, and
season with salt and pepper. Add half of the lemon juice and process until smooth.
3Heat the vegetable oil in large frying pan over medium-high heat. Cook a
small piece of the mixture and taste to check the seasoning. Adjust with
salt and pepper, and an extra squeeze of fresh lemon juice if needed. Roll the
fish cakes into 16 equal portions. Cook in small batches until golden brown on
all sides. Drain on paper towels.
4Serve with a cucumber salad dressed with ground cinnamon and a little
orange juice, or as a canapé with drinks before a meal.
Preserved lemons Place 2 lemons in a small saucepan with a tight-fitting lid.
Cover with cold water. Add 3 heaping tablespoons sea salt (the salt removes the
bitterness from the skin). Bring the water to a boil, and simmer for 10–12 minutes
or until the lemons are soft when pierced with the tip of a knife. Remove with a
slotted spoon and refresh under cold running water. When cool, cut in half. Using
a sharp knife, remove all the flesh and white pith. Trim down the lemon skin from
the inside, so only the lemon zest remains. Cover the lemon zest with olive oil and
you have preserved lemon; it keeps covered in the refrigerator for up to 6 weeks.

Bolani Afghani flat bread

Makes 6–8
4 cups all-purpose flour
1 tsp salt
3 eggs, lightly beaten
2⁄3 cup olive oil plus extra for cooking
1Sift the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the center, and add the
eggs, olive oil, and 1 cup water. Bring together to make a ball of dough.
Knead on a floured work surface for 10–15 minutes until very soft and elastic.
Roll the dough into balls each roughly the size of a tennis ball. Cover with a
damp cloth, and let rest for 30 minutes.
2Oil the work surface and spread out one of the balls of dough, gently pulling
the edges to stretch it as thin and wide as possible, as if you are making
a strudel. Dust the surface with a little flour, and fold the pastry over and over to
make a pleated fan. Roll up this pleated piece of dough to make a curled ball.
Repeat with the remaining balls of dough. Let rest, covered with a damp cloth,
for another 15 minutes.
3Heat a heavy frying pan over medium-high heat. Use your hands to pat
a curled ball of dough into a circle about 8in (20cm) in diameter. Add a little
oil to the pan, and cook the flat disc of dough, turning once, so it is golden
brown on each side. Repeat with the remaining balls of dough. Serve warm,
accompanied by Roast Pumpkin Paste (p154) and Carrot Pickle

Shourba corbasi Chard soup with rice and turmeric

Serves 4–6
1lb (450g) chard or spinach leaves, or beet
leaves (stalks removed), or a combination
of all three
1 quart good-quality vegetable or
chicken stock
2 tbsp olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
2 leeks, trimmed and rinsed, halved
lengthwise, and thinly sliced
½ cup long-grain white rice
2 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1½ cups plain Greek-style yogurt
large pinch of ground turmeric
juice of 1 lemon
½ bunch of fresh mint leaves, coarsely
chopped
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Finely dice the stalks of the chard leaves. Rinse the leaves and finely shred.
Bring the stock to a boil in a saucepan.
2Heat the oil in a heavy pan or casserole over medium-high heat. Add the
onion, leek, and chard stems, and cook over low heat for 4–5 minutes until
slightly colored. Add the rice and cook, stirring occasionally for 2 minutes, to
coat. Season with salt and pepper. Pour in the hot stock and vinegar, and bring
to a boil. Once boiling, reduce the heat and simmer for 12–15 minutes or until
the rice is tender. While the soup is simmering, mince the garlic with a little salt.
Stir into the yogurt with the turmeric and half the lemon juice. Mix together,
then taste and season with salt and pepper.
3When the rice is tender, add the shredded chard leaves to the soup.
Simmer for about 3 minutes until the leaves are tender. Remove from the
heat and whisk in the yogurt mixture, then add the mint. Check the seasoning,
adding a little extra lemon juice or cracked black pepper if needed. Serve warm
or at room temperature, to best appreciate the flavors.
Beet tops Beet leaves, or tops, make a great extra vegetable, which you often
get for free when you buy beets. They are delicious when blanched and sautéed,
providing a delicious sweetness combined with an irony earthiness. The Italians
use beet tops a lot; they make a wonderful addition to a ravioli filling.

Kibbeh samak Stuffed fish balls

Serves 4–6
1lb (450g) bulghur (cracked wheat)
1 onion, finely chopped
1½lb (700g) boneless firm white fish
juice of ½ lemon
vegetable oil for frying
salt and freshly ground black pepper
lemon wedges for serving
fresh cilantro for garnish
For the filling
1 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1⁄3 cup dried apricots (about 7), finely
chopped
¼ cup pitted dates (about 4), finely chopped
small handful of chopped cilantro leaves
1In a large bowl, cover the bulghur wheat with cold water, and let soak for
10 minutes. Put the onion into a food processor and process until smooth.
Add the fish and lemon juice, and season with salt and pepper.
2Line a sieve with a clean fine dish towel or a piece of cheesecloth, and drain
the soaked bulghur. Pick up the ends of the cloth and squeeze tightly to
remove any excess liquid. Working in batches, add the bulghur to the fish purée,
processing between each addition to form a workable dough. If it needs to be a
bit more malleable, add a little ice water.
3To make the filling, heat the oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Sauté
the onion for 3–4 minutes until softened. Add the apricots, dates, and
cilantro. Season with salt and pepper. Remove from the heat and let cool.
4With moistened hands, divide the fish mixture into 20 or so pieces, and roll
into even-sized balls. Using your index finger, make a hole in each ball and
fill it with a little of the fruit stuffing. Re-form the ball around the stuffing to enclose
completely, and pat into shape. Heat the oil for deep-frying. Cook the fish balls in
batches until they are golden brown on all sides. Drain on paper towels.
5Garnish with fresh cilantro, and serve warm with lemon wedges. You can
easily vary the filling given here slightly, using some chopped nuts, spices,
or chopped fresh chilies, or more chopped herbs to suit your taste. Serve as
an appetizer or as part of a larger selection of dishes, or as a snack or canapé.

Fetta Stuffed eggplant with yogurt and pine nuts

Serves 4–6
2 eggplants, about 2¼lb (1kg) in total
olive oil for frying
7 pita breads, broken into small triangles,
plus extra for serving
¾ cup pine nuts
1¼lb (550g) minced or ground lamb
1 tsp ground allspice, plus a little extra
1 cup tomato juice
1 cinnamon stick
2 bay leaves
2 garlic cloves
1 cup Greek-style yogurt
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Cut the tops off the eggplants and scoop out half of the flesh. Soak the
eggplants in salted water while you prepare the other ingredients.
2Heat some olive oil in a heavy pan over medium-high heat. Cook the triangles
of pita bread in batches, turning, until crisp and golden brown. Remove from
the oil using tongs, and drain on paper towels. Using the same pan, cook the pine
nuts in the oil until golden brown. Remove and drain on paper towels.
3Add a little oil to another frying pan. Cook the meat with the 1 tsp allspice
until the meat is cooked throughout. Season with salt and pepper, and stir
in half the pine nuts. Remove the eggplant shells from the water and drain well.
Stuff the scooped-out cavities with the meat mixture. Cook the stuffed eggplants
in the oil, filling-side up, until lightly browned on the bottom, being careful not
to disturb the filling.
4Heat the tomato juice with the cinnamon stick and bay leaves in a large
shallow pan. Season with salt and pepper. When the tomato juice is
simmering, add the stuffed eggplants and cook gently until the sauce
thickens. Meanwhile, heat a broiler until hot.
5Crush the garlic and add to the yogurt. Cover the bottom of an ovenproof
dish with fried pita bread, then arrange the stuffed eggplants and pour the
yogurt over the top. Drizzle with the tomato sauce and then the yogurt mixture.
Sprinkle with a little extra allspice. Place the dish under the broiler. Cook for a few
minutes until heated through and the yogurt is hot and sizzling in places. Garnish
with the remaining toasted pine nuts, and serve hot with lots of warm pita bread.