Street Food - Moily haldi (Coconut and turmeric fish soup)

Serves 4–6
2 tbsp vegetable oil
3 tbsp raw cashews
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2in (5cm) piece of fresh ginger, peeled and
finely chopped
2 fresh red Thai chilies, seeded and
finely chopped, plus extra, cut into
slivers, for garnish (optional)
1 bunch of fresh cilantro, leaves and
stems finely chopped
2 onions, finely chopped
1 tbsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
1 tsp ground turmeric
3½ cups good-quality fish stock
1¼ cups canned unsweetened
coconut cream or coconut milk
2 tsp dark brown sugar
juice of 2 limes
1lb (450g) baby squid, cleaned
1lb (450g) uncooked large prawns, peeled,
deveined, and halved lengthwise
1lb (450g) firm white fish, cut into
bite-size chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1Heat a heavy frying pan over medium heat. Add 1 tbsp of the oil, and lightly
brown the cashews. Set aside. In the same oil, cook the garlic, ginger, and
chopped chilies for 2–3 minutes until fragrant. Using a pestle and mortar, pound
the cashews, cilantro stems, garlic, ginger, and chilies to make a paste. Set
aside. Heat the remaining oil in a clean heavy pan over low heat. Add the
onion. Gently cook for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft.
2Meanwhile, crush the fennel seed and coriander seed using a pestle and
mortar. When the onion is soft, add the fennel and coriander seeds and the
turmeric. Cook for 2 minutes until fragrant. Add half of the cashew paste. Pour in
the fish stock and coconut cream, then add the sugar and season with salt and
pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Add the lime juice and remaining nut paste. Taste
and adjust the seasoning. It should have a balance of sweet richness and acidity.
3While the soup base is simmering, slit open the squid and, using a small
sharp knife, carefully score the outside in a crisscross pattern. Cut the squid
into bite-size pieces. Put in a bowl with the prawns and fish. Season well with salt
and pepper. Add to the soup, and simmer for 3 minutes or until the prawns turn
pink and the squid is opaque. Stir in half of the cilantro leaves. Serve at once in
small bowls garnished with the remaining cilantro leaves and red chilies (if using).
This fantastically tasty
fish soup hails from Sri
Lanka and the southern
coastal regions of India.
When I first tasted it,
I found it very difficult
to identify the source of its
striking richness. It was
only when I asked how it
was made that I discovered
that the soup was thickened
with a paste made from
cashews. The nuts are
lightly roasted, then ground
into a paste with chopped
coriander stems. I have
since learned that this
technique is frequently used
to enrich soups, stews, and
curries for special occasions.

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